My First Galley Plug Fix (3 Viewers)

[astr]

Great write up! I did mine this past weekend using this writeup as a guide. The only exception was that I did like mtb_rider and used a 1/16" NPT plug. I did not have to enlarge the hole before tapping after I removed the OE plug. Even with Loctite, I like the idea of a tapered plug as it should seal better.

Regarding retorqueing the head bolt: I put a breaker bar on the head bolt to loosen it and noted the position of the bar. When I reinstalled the head bolt, I torqued it until the torque wrench brought it back to the same position as established by the breaker bar. It took about 95 ft-lb to get it back to the same place, well within factory specs (83-98 ft-lb).

I was also able to do the complete job without draining the cooling system. I just removed the three bolts that attach the coolant pipes to the head and then just tied them out of my way.

 

[hank14]

Here's an update to my oil galley plug repair and a disclaimer:

Anytime I try something new on my cruiser, I end up having to fix it twice.

Someone asked me where I got the 5/16x24 set screws.

I bought the set screws from NAPA auto parts. Lowes and Home Depot had some, but they were 18 pitch threads.

After I did this repair, I would check the galley plug when I filled up for gas. I noticed the set screws were leaking slightly after a few weeks- just enough for the head to look wet below the plug.

I had to remove the set screws, seat them a little deeper, and then used Red Locktite to seat them again. I think I must have wallowed out the hole some when I was drilling the plug out - one of the risks of doing this while the head's still on the block in the engine bay.

Hope this helps.

 

[KLF]

I always used JB Weld as a thread sealant instead of Locktite, just in case the threads weren't in perfect alignment or the drilled hole was a little oversized. Never had one leak (that I know of).

 

[lovetoski]

Anytime I try something new on my cruiser, I end up having to fix it twice.

That so totally describes everything I do. First time is to learn how not to do it. If I'm lucky (or take the time to think a lot) I can sometimes get it right on the second try. Third time - I've always got it just how I want it.

Over the long haul, I think I still save money...but only because I don't charge myself for "classroom time..."

Great post on doing the oil gally plug. I did mine, and in one of the few exceptions to the above observation, it went fine, but your pics and description are awesome.

 

[JonPalmer]

I knew I should of done a search before I fixed mine.

 

[hank14]

After I did this repair, I would check the galley plug when I filled up for gas. I noticed the set screws were leaking slightly after a few weeks- just enough for the head to look wet below the plug.

I had to remove the set screws, seat them a little deeper, and then used Red Locktite to seat them again. I think I must have wallowed out the hole some when I was drilling the plug out - one of the risks of doing this while the head's still on the block in the engine bay.QUOTE]

Well, my shade tree mechanic skills are still shining through. My above mentioned repair was still leaking a bit (only seeping slighty but enough to make me nervous). So, I used Teflon tape on the outer plug. It's still weaping very slightly. One of these days I think I'm going to have to do this repair over again with a slightly larger plug.

I think my original problem is related to me wearing out the hole when I was trying to drill the original plug out. I think the drill bit messed up the original plug channel enough that it is not round.

If you proceed slowly and carefully, you should be fine.

 

[Orionfj60]

Nice post thanks for all the info. Ill need to do this as soon and the weather permits.

 

[mwebfj60]

Good write up. This is one of the threads I reviewed before doing mine....very nerveracking project! I used a regular old bolt...I think it was a leftover from one of the brackets from my desmog. M8 I believe and it had a small head on it. I put some red loctite on the threads, a paper gasket, and some 'good stuff' under the head. The clearance was pretty tight between the head of the bolt and the curved part of the head but it made it and I feel confident it won't be going anywhere.

 

[Orionfj60]

Thanks for this post. Great job. did you get the plugs from fj40jim?

 

[MJM]

Drill size F

Old thread but the drill size for 5/16 18 should be F. the post says G. If you check any chart online they all say use size F.

 

[STUDLY 60]

I also agree this was a well done write up. My galley plug stared leaking a while back so I took the plunge and fixed it as well. I used a M8 x1.25 tap and allen plug 12mm long. I did however use Toyota FIPG seal packing in place of the locktite. I have had great success in the past with this stuff. (near daily) I will be much more confident on my upcoming trip up north now.

 

[MJM]

Just did it this am

Well I just completed the galley plug fix on my truck.
I used the 5/16" x 18 tap and used drill F.
I then used two 5/16 x 18 set screws with permanent locktite.
I will let the set screws cure for 24hrs before I test the repair.
Total time to repair was 45min. I did use a right angle drill attachment that was smaller than the one in the first post so I did not need to remove the heater tubing. I also used a racketing tap handle. I did not know they even made these but one of my tool/die guys had one to let me use this saved me a ton of time.
I did start the truck with the plug out and let it purge a little. Little to no stuff came out of the hole.
I did use a brand new USA made tap and it cut the threads like butter.
It helps to work in place that has two machinist on hand that are willing to lend you a few tools to get the job done.

Great Post
no to check my FJ40

 

[MT-PTK]

Good write up. I had to do my HG so I went ahead and took care of the pug while the head was off.

W.

 

[Eporter]

Glad to hear this post continues to help. I'm not sure about the F vs. G drill bit issue, the Irwin tap & drill set came with the 5/16-18 tap and G sized drill.

As for someone asking the source on the set screws, they're from Home Depot. In fact, all the hardware came from Home Depot, making this fix available to most anyone in the US.

I did buy some air rail caps, an idler pulley, and a carb rebuild from Jim C. about 7 years ago. They're still going strong, though I had to put a new pulley on the idler.

 

[Eporter]

And, it's over a year later, with no oil leaks or issues (at least not from the galley plug).

 

[slacker24-7]

Thanks for a great write up.. its nice to be able to have the correct tools before ya start, and know exactly what it is gonna take.. took about a hour.. thanks again..

 

[snye]

THANKS!

Thanks Eporter for such an excellent thread. Followed your exact instructions today and it went very smoothly. Already had the valve cover off to adjust the valves, so the galley fix only took 30 minutes. Even used your zip tie and a towel to catch all the shavings. Very clever.

Now I can drive without checking my oil pressure every five minutes. Thanks again for your help!

 

[vipergrhd]

cool

Very nice write up and pics,job well done man.

 

[JamesR]

Okay, I have to add my comments. My galley plug was leaking. I read and reread this and a few other posts. I was really anxious about doing this; I didn't want to mess anything up. I knew it needed to be repaired so I bought the parts, set aside several hours and jumped in. It was very easy. So easy I thought sure I messed up somewhere. But I followed the instructions posted here and everything went great. It took longer to put away the tools than it took to plug it up. Thanks Eporter.

 

[gabethetree]

It just so happened that my oil gallery plug decided to blow out on Thanksgiving day. Was very pessimistic at first when I saw a huge puddle of oil under my truck after driving for about 10 miles. Thankfully Ih8mud was there with this sweet writeup. Once I realized what the problem was and found this thread, I had it plugged up (and with a newly installed valve cover gasket) in no time. Thanks for the great write up. I'm not a fan of the slash and dash fix it jobs since it's likely that I will have this fj62 for the rest of my life. This solution seems like it'll hold for as long as this engine will last.