Discussion in '40- & 55-Series Tech' started by Canarias, May 21, 2013.
Going to do the bare minimum to get this legal and safe on the road and use it for a bit.
I need to take my Suzuki Samurai out of service for a fair bit of maintenance and this BJ40 will cover the Suzuki´s job of hauling tools, water, and materials around rough terrain. Once the Suzuki is done the 40 will come into the workshop and this will turn into a body off refurb thread.
I think that´s enough background to justify the following gratuitous Samurai pics as on-topic...
Bare minimum jobs are:
- sort brakes
- install rear lights
- put some original Toyota seats in to make road legal
- mend small hole in floor under driver´s seat
One of the rear jump seats is missing. Vehicle document states number of seats as being "2 - 6" so unsure whether it will pass test without sourcing a jump seat. One way to find out...
Roof gutter is very rusty, again not sure if it will fail test on this so it´s on the "maybe" list of jobs.
Lots of seized cylinders. Most of the brake lines had to be removed by hacksaw due to flare nuts being rusted onto the brake pipes. I´ve honed out the rear cylinders but I think the front ones are scrap. I´ve got a troopy which is way down the priority list of projects and it looks like its front wheel cylinders are good enough to be used as donor parts.
New copper brake lines and flare nuts. Need to confirm the new flare nuts are going to work and source the bleeders. 7 brake lines here next to the originals I used for copying (some off a 45 due to the 40 ones being cut - the fronts are the same for both vehicles).
The 8th brake line that is missing from the pic is the long one that goes across the rear axle. That is the hardest one to get to and thankfully didn´t need cutting. I will copy & replace it when I get the body off during the future full refurb.
Old nut vs (shiny) new nut.
I believe old nut is original as all flare nuts across four 40 series Toyota´s I´ve worked on are identical. I haven´t been able to source nuts with such a long shoulder but I believe the short shoulder version will work. When fitted into wheel cylinder it goes in far enough to force the flared pipe tight to the back of it´s threaded hole, with about half a thread sticking out. The old nuts fit with about 2.5 threads exposed, which equates exactly to the difference in shoulder lengths.
I´ll run this past an experienced mechanic and test/inspect thoroughly before driving on the road.
Honed cylinders and new lines installed. No leaks from flare nuts or pistons after a few brake pedal pumps. The hex heads on the flare nuts are 11mm vs the originals at 10mm. This makes it a bit tight to get the flare spanner in. It´s possible, but it´s enough of a pain to make a mental note to buy nuts with the 10mm head in future.
Hi, Looks like a lot of work, are you not worried a rock will penetrate the soft copper lines driving down your roads? Mike
Looking where the lines are routed, the lines aren´t likely to hit any static rocks. There´s a risk of something being thrown up but I think the copper will withstand that. I´ve seen more steel lines rust and break than copper ones get fractured, but it is something to consider. Nice and easy to work with, can cut, bend and flare each line in well under 10 mins with very basic tools.
botched brake line attempts recycled into master cylinder bleed pipes
That's some scary looking brake fluid
That fluid is at least 9 yrs old. Could be 38 yrs old for all I know.
Most of the fluid drained out of the master cylinder, but the last little bit in the reservoir had to be scraped out, gravity´s just not strong enough for this gunk, even after diluting with some new fluid and trying to circulate it thru (with brake lines disco´d of course).
Decided to take the MC off and take it apart to clean. I had already bought an MC repair kit but wasn´t planning on using it just yet. Obviously now I´m taking the thing apart, I will use the new bits from the kit.
Pics to follow in next post if I can upload from an android fone, otherwise later when I am home...
I´m finding this reference site from Coolerman very useful: http://www.globalsoftware-inc.com/coolerman/fj40/15.htm
Gonna hone out the MC, clean the reservoirs etc n put the new bits in
Found some longer 10mm x 1.0 Fine Thread flare nuts here at Fed Hill USA Brake Lines: http://store.fedhillusa.com/m1l3.aspx. There is a Multi pack as well. These are 23 mm long vs 17mm for the regular length ones. FYI.
Samarias are good fun. I had one when I lived in The Bahamas and had loads of fun with it. One day I stopped for petrol and the door fell off from rust.
At first I thought your brake master was the same as an aftermarket PBR unit I was running for some time:
But I now see they're similar but different.
And I wish I could buy repair kits for my cylinders but it seems too many people over this way prefer to replace the whole thing because kits are almost impossible for me to source.
PS. I look forward to seeing more pics of your BJ40, especially inside your engine bay.
(There are very few early BJ40s on ih8mud as I suppose you've noticed.)
^^^ what he said. (I've always wanted to do that). More BJ40 pics!
yes more pics
It´s all diesel over here. I must see 20 each day just driving about. Never seen an FJ.
Vae V, I will measure my nuts for you tomorrow heheh.
Chamba, yes Samurai is loadsa fun and very capable/aggressive offroad but feels like a F*@#ing deathtrap on the autopista. I´m always thinking something is about to fall off, like maybe a wheel.
Lost M, Vae V, NCW, pics is easy, I can take a few next time I at workshop.
Separate names with a comma.