My auction find Collectors edition (16 Viewers)

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A week ago, I didn’t consider myself a proper gentleman. The only other Toyota vehicles I’ve owned are FJ Cruisers. Scrolling through some online auction listings, my eyes peeked.

With two seconds on the clock, I took my shot and scored the winning basket. Triple locked, fully operational, mechanically sound, 99.9% rust free.

Meet my 97’ 80 series, I purchased with never seeing. Less than 24 hours after arrival, she was already out on the trails. Arrived Friday, it’s now Sunday.

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She came with aftermarket headlamps, I need to swap to OEM. Front bumper corner ends are MIA, but I believe contact with tire is to blame. The wood grain has partially turned gold, and the drivers seat is as one would expect, otherwise a nice interior with a sweet circa 2008 sound system. The Sears branded battery from 2013 earned its keep and was retired with an Interstate. Fluids have been covered, nothing overly concerning. Happy to have seen a newer cooling system, and a clean leak free engine bay. The ARB shocks are still healthy, and the 315 Nitto Trail Grapplers have tread. I’m stoked, but my family doesn’t understand.
 
First thing my mom said when she saw my new (*to me) LandCruiser? "Nice Jeep." Thanks, mom...
 
So, I’ve found a problem.

My 80 isn’t noticing when it’s in low range. As in, my center diff and ABS lights do not illuminate when I put the transfer case into low. Low range works mechanically how it should otherwise.

From what I’m gathering, PN 84222-12010 should resolve the issue. It’s the transfer case indicator switch. However, is there gremlin that is common otherwise before I jump to conclusions without proper diagnosis?



      • 84222-12010








      • 84222-12010

 
@80280 There are two switch sensors that come in play..

First is the 4LOW position switch that senses when the transfer is shifted to low range and activates the CDL. If that is working you should hear relays clicking when you make the shift to low range. Cavet is that many guys do a "pin 7 mod" that removes that feature but add a dash switch to control the CDL function.

The second switch is the CDL Sensor Position switch at the top front of the transfer. That switch illuminates the dash indicator and disables ABS.

With either switch the connector can be removed and the terminals shorted to confirm everything else is working.

Next step is to remove the sensor and test for proper function with a multi-meter.
 
Welcome to Mud.

Nice truck.

If you aren't aware, there's a long list of service and maintenance procedures that IME/IMHO should be checked/performed before any of these are driven hard. Depends some of course on how well the PO took care of the truck, but IME you can't assume everything was serviced or serviced right.

Tip# 1: Read, read, read on the forum, just about everything has been discussed in the past. Learn to use the Search function, a lot.

She came with aftermarket headlamps, I need to swap to OEM"

Lesson #1: might as well rip the bandage off now, OEM headlamp assemblies have been discontinued for almost 10 years ie: they're NLA.

Tip #2: WATER BAD

After fording deep water (axle hubs submerged) Toyota recommends a wheel bearing service (front and rear) but if you're going that deep
might as well go all the way and do a complete "Front Axle Service" ie: pull the hubs, spindles, CV joints (Birfs or Birfields), clean and repack everything, put it all back together. While you're in there bypass the factory axle breather (which doesn't work well) and run a hose up to the engine compartment, zip tie the end off somewhere out of the way, put a small filter in the open end. Rear axle service is less involved but the rear axle breather can get stuck open
allowing humid air (or water) into the axle housing. Consider replacing that with a longer hose running somewhere like the left rear quarter panel cavity.

Both the front and rear hub seals, especially with high miles, can leak either way (in or out). Terrain Tamer makes a replacement rear axle Cassette type hub seal that solves that issue (wear of the spindle that isn't replaceable on the rear axle).

Need also to check/replace the gear box fluids all the way around after playing in deep water.
Ditto for the driveshafts: grease the U-joints until all air (or water) and old grease come out all four end caps of each of the four U-joints.
Then grease the slip yolks until you see the yolks just start to move, don't over fill those.

There's a ton of tips and tricks for the front and rear axle jobs, read on the forum and watch some videos for both:

Here's some light reading/viewing to get you started:

IME all of the videos you'll find on you tubes may do this or that procedure in a different manner so it helps to watch at least a few along
with tips from the Forum to get a good idea of how it should go back together.

One simple example: neither of the videos below show the spindle bushing or bearing being greased before installing it but IME seems like most people on the forum do add some grease onto that bushing/bearing and a bit into the spindle tube on the bushing end before installing the spindle. NBD just an FYI to read/learn those little tips and tricks and decide for yourself. FWIW

Follow the FSM (Factory Service Manual) of course which you can download for your model from the RESOURCES section above.















OTRAMM, a well known Land Cruiser mechanic in Northern Virginia, has a series of repair and service videos for the 80 Series. Check out his youtube channel, here's his Front Axle Service video:


80 Series Land Cruiser Knuckle Rebuild - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y08phFlezBs
 
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He's barely up to his wheels, yet. Let's give him a week before we tell him about head gaskets and While-You're-In-There's! 😃
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"He's barely up to his wheels, yet. Let's give him a week before we tell him about head gaskets and While-You're-In-There's!"

Never too soon IMHO, just trying to help him from destroying his 80 before he learns what it can or can't do, what service it needs, etc.

There is a story of an 80 Series that was in excellent shape, perfect inside and out, driven by a little old lady, then one day her 16 year old Grandson came over and asked if he could take her Land Cruiser for a drive in the neighborhood and the little old lady said OK.

First thing the kid did was head for the biggest mud bog he could find because everyone knows that "Land Cruisers are indestructible". So he proceeds to test the legend and guess what, he destroyed that 80 Series in one afternoon, tens of thousands of dollars in body, interior, and mechanical damage from getting stuck in deep water (deeper than the photo above).

So just trying to help someone else from repeating that mistake. Land Cruisers are great trucks but they are not indestructible and repairing them is not cheap.

Edit: OK, I may have over reacted.

So never mind all the above, next time find a deeper hole, heck find a lake because we know these are unsinkable, then after you pull it out just drive up the side of a hill with at least a 60' bank and open the doors to let the water drain out, because we know these stick to the side of hills like a mountain goat. Oh yeah, and don't bother greasing the U-joints because my buddy told me they're sealed for life and will last a million miles. Same for the front axle, heck again, you don't even need grease for the wheel bearings or CV joints as everyone knows that water is used to wash things off so a little water mixed in with the old grease will actually help keep things clean.🤥
 
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Great score
Don’t let the Boys get you riled up.
If you let them they will have you doing a full rebuild as preventive maintenance 🤪🤨
 

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