thatcabledude
GOLD Star
Not familiar with the 3FE. Does it have a IAC valve?
My '92 Landcruiser: Safariwagon-II
- Thread starter TheLoyale
- Start date
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TheLoyale
The Legend
- Thread starter
- #282
I'm thinking the ISC is basically an IAC (Which I'm used to on the Subies) Both control Idle speed.
I tested the resistance of the electric aspect of it and it checks out. Plus is makes the clicking sound right after the engine is shut off (Which means its operating according to the FSM)
Are parts for the 1FZ this hard to come by as well?
I tested the resistance of the electric aspect of it and it checks out. Plus is makes the clicking sound right after the engine is shut off (Which means its operating according to the FSM)
Are parts for the 1FZ this hard to come by as well?
TheLoyale
The Legend
- Thread starter
- #284
Actually, scratch cleaning the EGR. I have begun the Desmog process on the 3F-E following the Detailed write up thanks to Dan (Spook50)
So far, I have everything I need. I'm just waiting on a friend of mine to machine a block off plate and I also ordered the 14mm Steel plugs #90340-14001 off Cruiserparts.net to plug the holes for the Air Injectors.
Air Injectors and Air Injection Manifold are removed, Vacuum lines for the VSVs are capped off with 1/8" caps, I need to find a proper fitting expansion plug to block the main Air pump hose fitting on the Air Cleaner cover. I also still need to remove the union nut off the Exhaust manifold that was used by the EGR. I already have the Brass plug to block that off as well, Went to Lowes and found fittings A-823 and A-870 in the plumbing isle.
I ordered a new shorter Gates belt TR22525 from O'Reilly Auto Parts.
Next up is to remove the Air Pump and the old EGR Plug.
So far, I have everything I need. I'm just waiting on a friend of mine to machine a block off plate and I also ordered the 14mm Steel plugs #90340-14001 off Cruiserparts.net to plug the holes for the Air Injectors.
Air Injectors and Air Injection Manifold are removed, Vacuum lines for the VSVs are capped off with 1/8" caps, I need to find a proper fitting expansion plug to block the main Air pump hose fitting on the Air Cleaner cover. I also still need to remove the union nut off the Exhaust manifold that was used by the EGR. I already have the Brass plug to block that off as well, Went to Lowes and found fittings A-823 and A-870 in the plumbing isle.
I ordered a new shorter Gates belt TR22525 from O'Reilly Auto Parts.
Next up is to remove the Air Pump and the old EGR Plug.
Some of this erratic behavior sounds similar to what I went through very recently (also a '92 - 3FE POWA!). I'd had a replacement AFM on-hand that I'd bought off another Mud'er (thx Eric!) and finally just put it in and it's been ALL FINE since then.
I realize your resistance checks sound like they're coming back fine via the FSM guidelines - just passing along. I was also encountering 24 & 31 CEL codes, FYI.
I realize your resistance checks sound like they're coming back fine via the FSM guidelines - just passing along. I was also encountering 24 & 31 CEL codes, FYI.
TheLoyale
The Legend
- Thread starter
- #287
Good to know either way. I'm wondering, can resistance check out, but a electronic component still be an issue? What I'm really at a loss with is the computer is showing no codes, Which leads me to believe it is something else, a mechanical aspect of it. I want to keep blaming the TPS, but I really don't know.
Whatever is messing up has to either control the Air/Fuel Ratio OR sends a signal to a unit that does controls that. But then again, why is a code of some type not being tripped?
I can't test the vacuum or check the timing with the way its running, it would be inaccurate.
The only other thing I can think of doing would be sticking an inline spark tester on each plug wire and see what the spark looks like on each cyl.
I'm really doubting if I do a Compression test that it would show any major difference across all cylinders.
Whatever is messing up has to either control the Air/Fuel Ratio OR sends a signal to a unit that does controls that. But then again, why is a code of some type not being tripped?
I can't test the vacuum or check the timing with the way its running, it would be inaccurate.
The only other thing I can think of doing would be sticking an inline spark tester on each plug wire and see what the spark looks like on each cyl.
I'm really doubting if I do a Compression test that it would show any major difference across all cylinders.
TheLoyale
The Legend
- Thread starter
- #288
I checked the Spark across all cylinders, the Spark is strong and consistent on all cylinders at varying RPMs. (Obviously sparking quicker with increasing RPMs)
So if the Spark is good, then we can move on from that. I might pull off the Throttle body assy and possibly replace the TPS. Dealer can get one next day for $142 bucks.
So if the Spark is good, then we can move on from that. I might pull off the Throttle body assy and possibly replace the TPS. Dealer can get one next day for $142 bucks.
I'm definitely not an expert so don't make a rash decision with what I've provided. My "sounds similar" shouldn't be taken as a technical or forensic diagnosis.....but it sure does sound similar.
TheLoyale
The Legend
- Thread starter
- #291
Here are some pics of it properly De-Smogged. I'm just waiting to pick up the EGR Block Off Plate from my buddy who CNC'ed it out of 1/8" Steel. (Hence the Rubber plug in it for now)
Anyway, I am now thinking all this is being caused by the Coolant Temp Sensor. As I started it up to day and let it run for a good 20min, playing with the throttle, Starting and Stopping the motor and it runs great. I don't think it could run any smoother. But it is also 40deg F. today, the issue seems to act up when the temperature is below freezing and lately its always in the single digits or negative degrees. I know the CTS can play a large part in how a vehicle runs and can also cause lofting. So that being said, I now have a new CTS and will be putting it in, I need to remove two of the Head Bolts to remove the old Air Pump bracket to gain access to the CTS (Unless someone knows of a better way??)
Anyway, I am now thinking all this is being caused by the Coolant Temp Sensor. As I started it up to day and let it run for a good 20min, playing with the throttle, Starting and Stopping the motor and it runs great. I don't think it could run any smoother. But it is also 40deg F. today, the issue seems to act up when the temperature is below freezing and lately its always in the single digits or negative degrees. I know the CTS can play a large part in how a vehicle runs and can also cause lofting. So that being said, I now have a new CTS and will be putting it in, I need to remove two of the Head Bolts to remove the old Air Pump bracket to gain access to the CTS (Unless someone knows of a better way??)
TheLoyale
The Legend
- Thread starter
- #292
I put the new CTS in tonight, I really think it made a difference. The motor feels stronger, quicker response when revving and its still running great. I'm kind of hoping we get some colder weather again just to make sure that it is fixed and not just running good because of the warmer weather.
I will post back with any further results.
I will post back with any further results.
94SRUNNER
GOLD Star
Was the old CTS out of spec per the FSM?
Also curious....hoping your problem is resolved - been quite a challenge and understand the frustration.
Well done on that enamel.....purty.
Well done on that enamel.....purty.
TheLoyale
The Legend
- Thread starter
- #295
I will see if I can test the resistance of the old one, I ended up breaking the connector off the only sensor (Really brittle)
As for running, so far so good. Its really running great! To be honest, I don't think the truck has ever ran this good since I bought it. We are supposed to get some colder temps later this week, so I suppose that will be the true test.
I will get a pic of the Block Off Plate installed, I couldn't have asked for a more perfectly made plate.
As for running, so far so good. Its really running great! To be honest, I don't think the truck has ever ran this good since I bought it. We are supposed to get some colder temps later this week, so I suppose that will be the true test.
I will get a pic of the Block Off Plate installed, I couldn't have asked for a more perfectly made plate.
Let's bump this up....
I am glad you asked this question. I just desmogged my 92 and am very interested to hear the answers you get. I was going to try my best to alter the bracket that holds the end of the tube steady and reinstall it. I figured if Toyota thought it needed to be there, who am I to argue?
...via IH8MUD app
I am glad you asked this question. I just desmogged my 92 and am very interested to hear the answers you get. I was going to try my best to alter the bracket that holds the end of the tube steady and reinstall it. I figured if Toyota thought it needed to be there, who am I to argue?
...via IH8MUD app
Just read through your thread, glad to see you are having fun!
early on you post a rear bumper picture, pretty sure is is a home brew from some who know what they are doing..
what are your plans for bumpers, if any?
early on you post a rear bumper picture, pretty sure is is a home brew from some who know what they are doing..
what are your plans for bumpers, if any?
TheLoyale
The Legend
- Thread starter
- #300
I'm thinking double swing outs, tire on the pass side and possible Jerry can basket on the driver side. Also would add good recovery points and a High lift point along with a 2" receiver. I may go with a Slee bumper, I wouldn't mind welding up my own, so who knows.
