Builds My 69' 55

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DTC72 said:
Oh man…I will have to look again in my box of parts to be put on…not sure I have any retaining clips! That might explain it! Ha!
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I just bit yet another bullet and ordered two new reflectors from SloCruiser. If I wasn't painting this pig then I would've been happy just rock'n the old ones. But with the new paint coming soon I think it only seems fitting to have new reflectors as well... Despite the hefty price tag :confused:
 
I've been getting rid of the rust and treating the body cavities as I go. Hopefully I'll have this thing ready for paint by next weekend. Once painted I am going to completely go through and treat the body cavities with a product called Waxoyl Power Shield.

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Looking good.
What gauge sheet metal are you using for patch pieces?
 
ConspicuousPig said:
I should have a least a couple retaining clips that you are welcome to have if you need em'
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So I checked my parts box and it looks like I have two retainer clips for each of my rear reflectors. I then checked the Toyota electronic parts catalog to see if I could see how many clips should be on each reflector but the diagram does not show the inside. Is two per reflector enough?
 
@RUSH55 pretty sure that isn't what he's using to "treat" the body cavities prior to painting. I probably should have been more precise in my question.

I've been getting rid of the rust and treating the body cavities as I go. Hopefully I'll have this thing ready for paint by next weekend. Once painted I am going to completely go through and treat the body cavities with a product called Waxoyl Power Shield.
 
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DTC72 said:
So I checked my parts box and it looks like I have two retainer clips for each of my rear reflectors. I then checked the Toyota electronic parts catalog to see if I could see how many clips should be on each reflector but the diagram does not show the inside. Is two per reflector enough?
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I'm pretty sure they came from the factory with three clips
 
WarDamnEagle said:
@RUSH55 pretty sure that isn't what he's using to "treat" the body cavities prior to painting. I probably should have been more precise in my question.

I've been getting rid of the rust and treating the body cavities as I go. Hopefully I'll have this thing ready for paint by next weekend. Once painted I am going to completely go through and treat the body cavities with a product called Waxoyl Power Shield.
Click to expand...
yeah, I've been treating areas as I find and expose with POR-15. But after I paint the vehicle I do plan to thoroughly go through the cavities (the areas that i cant reach or expose) and hit them with Waxoyl to stop any hidden surface rust that I can't access.
My plan to use Waxoyl after paint is to eliminate and over spray that may contaminate any surface that is soon to be painted. Essentially less cleanup and eliminate any potential future paint failure.

I'm not sure if this is the most professional approach but it makes sense to me. Does anyone know of a better way? This is my go at a project of this caliber. Thanks
 
ConspicuousPig said:
I'm pretty sure they came from the factory with three clips
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If you are willing to part with two or more of the retainer clips I’d love to have them. Just tell me how much? Shipping would be to Las Vegas. Thanks.
 
DTC72 said:
If you are willing to part with two or more of the retainer clips I’d love to have them. Just tell me how much? Shipping would be to Las Vegas. Thanks.
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Sure, You can just have them. I'm happy to know that you can put em' to good use.
PM me an address and I should be able to mail them out tomorrow
 
ConspicuousPig said:
yeah, I've been treating areas as I find and expose with POR-15. But after I paint the vehicle I do plan to thoroughly go through the cavities (the areas that i cant reach or expose) and hit them with Waxoyl to stop any hidden surface rust that I can't access.
My plan to use Waxoyl after paint is to eliminate and over spray that may contaminate any surface that is soon to be painted. Essentially less cleanup and eliminate any potential future paint failure.

I'm not sure if this is the most professional approach but it makes sense to me. Does anyone know of a better way? This is my go at a project of this caliber. Thanks
Click to expand...
I think you should treat the rusty areas with a rust converter first. POR-15's Metal Prep that they say to use before applying the POR-15 is a rust converter so if you are using that then that's probably good enough. Just my 2 cents.
 
WarDamnEagle said:
I think you should treat the rusty areas with a rust converter first. POR-15's Metal Prep that they say to use before applying the POR-15 is a rust converter so if you are using that then that's probably good enough. Just my 2 cents.
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Yes, I agree 100%. I believe that a lot of folks do just apply POR-15 directly over rust and call it good. I've been using POR-15 metal prep or Naval Jelly. Both contain the acid required to convert rust.
 
RUSH55 said:
Rut roh.
Did you loosen off the bolt that holds the torsion bar, underneath on the driver side? You can get by without it, gate’s just gonna feel heavier now.
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Hey, does anyone out there know what material the torsion bar is made of? I found my old hinge with the torsion bar still attached but during removal I had to cut the torsion bar in half to get it out. because the part that goes into the body was rusted stuck. But now that I have that piece out of the body and rest of the old torsion bar is found, I'd like to weld it back together and reuse it. My only concern is whether or not it is made from spring steel? I'm pretty sure spring steel cannot be welded together.
Thanks
 
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