That sucks big time.
Sorry to read this, hang in there you wil win this battle.
Sorry to read this, hang in there you wil win this battle.
Builds My 40 build (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Rusty 72
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
That's really too bad. Sorry.
I was really hoping that it would be better than that
JP
JP
- Thread starter
- #304
I looked but did not find any info.
My 1974 F.5 ate the bearings and I am looking for a reason why. How far should the distributor shaft engage the oil pump shaft? After doing more and better measurements I got 7/32". Is that enough? The dist is an aftermarket 3FE from AFI with a fuel injection. conversion.
My 1974 F.5 ate the bearings and I am looking for a reason why. How far should the distributor shaft engage the oil pump shaft? After doing more and better measurements I got 7/32". Is that enough? The dist is an aftermarket 3FE from AFI with a fuel injection. conversion.
How many times did you try and seat it when you installed it?
I typically install the distributor multiple times, learning the difference in depth between the distributor being properly seated into the oil pump and not being seated properly, and sitting up too high.
When the distributor is properly seated into the oil pump, it will sit lower than it will if it is not properly engaged.
A specific measurement is not something I would want anything to do with as there are too many variables as you have learned.
I typically install the distributor multiple times, learning the difference in depth between the distributor being properly seated into the oil pump and not being seated properly, and sitting up too high.
When the distributor is properly seated into the oil pump, it will sit lower than it will if it is not properly engaged.
A specific measurement is not something I would want anything to do with as there are too many variables as you have learned.
- Thread starter
- #306
Mounting tab is cast into the housing. I was wondering if the engagement was close to the factory specs.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #309
Yes. Bolt was tight also.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #311
4 25/32" mounting surface to end of dist.
4 18/32" to top of oil pump shaft.
5" to bottom of oil pump shaft.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #312
Bypass valve was free. Some marks on the valve body but did not seem to affect it when moving by hand. Spring is stiff.
Last edited:
4 25/32" mounting surface to end of dist.
2F distributor I have here at the shop is the same.
What is the history/story on the oil pump?
- Thread starter
- #314
4 25/32" mounting surface to end of dist.
2F distributor I have here at the shop is the same.
What is the history/story on the oil pump?
Length is not the problem.
The engine was running before it was stored for a few years. Engine had low compression on #4 or 5 cylinder. Was a bent valve. Oil pump was in solvent tank a couple weeks before being blown with air to dry.
I did pre prime the engine before starting. When it first started it had oil pressure. I shot a short video. Ran 30 seconds or so. One injector was pouring fuel and other done nothing. Shut engine off. Messed with that for a while. Started again tapped on injector pod. One still poured fuel other one started to work. I messed with the injector pod. Was a torn o-ring. Fixed that then tried to start the engine. I discovered it was locked up. I thought it was hydrolocked from all the fuel. Removed the plugs and still locked up.
- Thread starter
- #315
Here is the bypass valve. Was free when I removed it. Shows a bit of wear but it moves free by hand.
Last edited:
So,
Based on the info in your other thread, which has now joined this one, at some point in time, someone was in the bottom end of the engine.
It appears to me that the #4 main bearing was put in incorrectly.
If the mains and rods all had damage, then the oil pump may have been the issue, however, with just the #4 main being trashed, that typically only occurs when the oil passage is blocked, most typically, from a bearing not being installed properly.
Based on the info in your other thread, which has now joined this one, at some point in time, someone was in the bottom end of the engine.
It appears to me that the #4 main bearing was put in incorrectly.
If the mains and rods all had damage, then the oil pump may have been the issue, however, with just the #4 main being trashed, that typically only occurs when the oil passage is blocked, most typically, from a bearing not being installed properly.
Last edited:
rkymtnflyfisher
Trout Bum
Wow, I hate reading this.
- Thread starter
- #320
Is a fresh rebuild. Block was bored .030, crank is .010 on both. Reground Delta 250s cam & lifters, new GM valves, springs, retainers and seals. Block decked .020, head shaved .010. I did turn engine over before starting. I noticed nothing unusual. Left #1 plug in to get on compression stroke to set dist. Other plugs were out. Primed engine with drill for a minute or so. Did not have mechanicl gauge attached to see pressure.
First time starting since rebuild. Had oil pressure on initial start by factory gauge. Saw the fuel injector issues and did not look at oil pressure again. Ran 30-45 seconds on first start. Messed with injectors for a while. Had a rag under the leaking injector while cycling the fuel pump by turning the key on and off. Started again to see if injectors were better. Got fuel to the non working one but fuel poured from other. Removed the top of injector pod and discovered a torn o-ring. Installed new o-rings and cycled switch a few times. No leaks. Went to start and would not turn over.
Front main bearing damage.
Rod bearings, #1 is at top,
Main bearings, #1 or front is on top,
First time starting since rebuild. Had oil pressure on initial start by factory gauge. Saw the fuel injector issues and did not look at oil pressure again. Ran 30-45 seconds on first start. Messed with injectors for a while. Had a rag under the leaking injector while cycling the fuel pump by turning the key on and off. Started again to see if injectors were better. Got fuel to the non working one but fuel poured from other. Removed the top of injector pod and discovered a torn o-ring. Installed new o-rings and cycled switch a few times. No leaks. Went to start and would not turn over.
Front main bearing damage.
Rod bearings, #1 is at top,
Main bearings, #1 or front is on top,
Last edited:
