Builds My 40 build (1 Viewer)

[Rusty 72]

I have about 1 year left to work on the 40. This will allow a bit of shakedown to get the bugs out of it while I have the tools and place to perform any necessary work to be done. If it goes to Finland with us and since gas is about $8 a gallon I am thinking about getting the EBL computer and learn how to tune for maximum fuel economy. After looking at my list of things to do I should be able to have all the mechanical stuff done within a week. Now to find that week. Body work probably will take 2 weeks.


This a summary of what needs to be done.
Finish wiring, vss, cluster, switches, coil and fi stuff
Brake lines then bleed system
Install flywheel and clutch assembly
Install clutch slave cylinder and bleed
Steering, add power and check all tie rod ends
Engine, install intake/exhaust manifolds, buy another set or wait for the machine shop to get mine done. Only took 14 months to get the engine rebuilt.
Mount tbi and aircleaner assembly.
Adjust valves after running a while


Body work, minor quarter panel repair, fix door stop area, fix drivers door regulator, weld cracks in fenders, install support braces for roll bar, sand body and prime then paint. Install rain gutter then paint top. Get new windshield cut. Reassemble and start driving. Sounds easy

 

[White Stripe]

I have about 1 year left to work on the 40. This will allow a bit of shakedown to get the bugs out of it while I have the tools and place to perform any necessary work to be done. If it goes to Finland with us and since gas is about $8 a gallon I am thinking about getting the EBL computer and learn how to tune for maximum fuel economy. After looking at my list of things to do I should be able to have all the mechanical stuff done within a week. Now to find that week. Body work probably will take 2 weeks.


This a summary of what needs to be done.
Finish wiring, vss, cluster, switches, coil and fi stuff
Brake lines then bleed system
Install flywheel and clutch assembly
Install clutch slave cylinder and bleed
Steering, add power and check all tie rod ends
Engine, install intake/exhaust manifolds, buy another set or wait for the machine shop to get mine done. Only took 14 months to get the engine rebuilt.
Mount tbi and aircleaner assembly.
Adjust valves after running a while


Body work, minor quarter panel repair, fix door stop area, fix drivers door regulator, weld cracks in fenders, install support braces for roll bar, sand body and prime then paint. Install rain gutter then paint top. Get new windshield cut. Reassemble and start driving. Sounds easy

Nice progress. I have been real close to getting the EBL myself, tons easier to make adjustments. Always a option for you later down the road. List doesn't look too bad.

 

[Rusty 72]

Found my flywheel but no bolts yet. So I order a new set of bolts with the locking tabs. A bit expensive but I want to do it right the first time.


For anyone needing the part numbers,
Bolt, 90910-01016
Locking tab, 13455-60010

 

[Rusty 72]

Finally after a few months the intake/exhaust manifolds came back from the machine shop. Since I am using FI and the flapper is removed from the manifold I have a bright idea. The early 90's GM trucks had the oxygen sensor in the drivers side exhaust manifold. I am thinking about drilling and tapping the flapper shaft hole and insert the O2 sensor there.

 

[Rusty 72]

hh

 

[Rusty 72]

Started to drill the bushing out. Hit a hard spot then started to spin in the manifold. Got the die grinder out and slowly ground thru the bushing. With the bushing out the hole is too big for a M18x1.5 tap. Now to explore a thread sert or helicoil to install. Will need to counterbore the manifold about 1/4".

 

[Rusty 72]

Cut about 1/4" from the manifold and used a counterbore to recess the sensor just a little bit. The pilot on my counterbore was a bit small so I wrapped some electrial tape around it to fill the gap. Now for a helicoil insert for some threads.

 

[Rusty 72]

Bent some fuel lines. No real happy with them so I bought some Rigid tubing benders. Will bend some new lines and make a couple brackets. One bracket for the lines and another for the throttle cable. Looks like there will be just barely enough clearance for the water sensor to fit into the head. No flywheel bolts yet. So it will be awhile before it can be started.

 

[Rusty 72]

Installed the heli-coil. Hope the sensor is in deep enough. Now to plug the other side. Then ready to install. Getting closer to starting.

 

[Rusty 72]

Slowly cleaning out my storage places. Here's one I will start on next week if weather permits. Hopefully in this mess is a bunch of 40 parts from years ago. Next week the flywheel bolts and locking plate should be here. Getting closer to starting.

 

[Rusty 72]

Bent the lines next to the firewall and connected them to the tbi lines. Need to install a couple of hose clamps, secure the lines and flush them out. The fuel system will be finished then. Brake and clutch lines need to be secured to the firewall. Then to start on the wiring. Still waiting on flywheel bolts and lock plates before it can be started. Getting closer to running.

 

[mrboatman]

That`s looking really good
JP

 

[Rusty 72]

Blasted the exhaust manifold and used Bill Hirsch stainless steel paint. The paint needs heat to cure but will be a while before it gets started. So I got a fire going and it was there about 4 hours. Highest temp it got was 283°. Finally got the parts so the clutch could be installed. So in goes a new B&B Aisin clutch on a resurfaced flywheel. When getting the flywheel resurfaced they also cut the pressure plate mounting surface to the correct height.

 

[Rusty 72]

hh

 

[Rusty 72]

While cleaning in a storage trailer I found a greasy valve cover. Took the cover and oil filter adapter to work and cleaned them up. Tidying up the engine wiring a bit. Found a bracket for the coil, had to drill new holes so it could bolt to the original location. Still need to rebuild the throttle body, install the exhaust and finish the fuel lines then finally after 2 1/2 years of engine rebuilding h*ll it should be ready to start.

 

[waiting for time]

Looking good!

 

[Rusty 72]

Its runs, barely runs is more like it. The fresh rebuilt injectors need replaced. One injector pours fuel all the time and the other one does nothing. Hope this works, I shot a short video with my phone.

 

[Bripars40]

@Rusty 72 i wouldn’t say that barely runs! It sounds pretty good for starting up for the first time in almost three years. Good work! Keep it up and you’ll get to drive it sooner than you think!!

 

[Rusty 72]

I was working on the injectors issue. When turning the key on the fuel pump runs for a few seconds. Fuel poured from the injector. While cycling the fuel pump, I put a rag under the injector to catch all the gas so it would not flood the cylinders. I took the injector pod apart and found a cut o-ring. Simple to fix. Got it all back together and turned the key on. No fuel from the injector. Now is where the big problem arrived. The starter would not turn the engine over. I thought the battery was weak so I put the charger on it. After charging for an hour I tried to start it again. No luck. It will turn over by a pry bar on the starter ring gear but its extremely hard. Pulled the plugs and no change. Before starting it this morning I pulled the distributor and primed the engine with a drill. When it started the first thing I verified was oil pressure. The needle was close to the 3rd mark on the gauge. With the distributor from AFI it is almost impossible to not have it all the way down because there is a mounting tab cast into the housing. Before I started it I did double checked that the distributor was all the way down to the block.

Now I am trying to decide what to do next. I started it and made the 15 second video and saw the fuel problems so I shut it off. Started it again and tapped the injector that was doing nothing and it started to work but the other one was still pouring fuel. I did not want to run the engine very long with the fuel pouring in so I shut it off again. So far the total run time has been maybe a minute. What to do with an engine that will barely turn over?

I will not keep this 40. It has been H#LL. If anybody has a running 2F that's cheap I might be interested. My thought are to bolt it together and sell to someone or load all the 40 stuff and haul it to the scrap yard.

 

[Rusty 72]

Went out and took a pic of the dist.