Builds My 40 Build... 20 years and Counting... Purists beware, this may hurt... :D (1 Viewer)

[bikersmurf]

I've advanced timing as much as I can without excessive ping. It'll take a bit more tuning to have it running perfect, but that'll come in time. The distributor may need further tweaking to optimize tune.

 

[JohnnyC]

I had always liked those Carr steps... I had the $$ to get them or a KC light bar in the 90's for my full size Cherokee ... I got the light bar... Still wanted them ... Then got my cruiser ... I found out Toyota had Oem steps... Now I like the Toyota ones more lol

It's funny how long we drive these and still tinker ... Fix... Drive .... And enjoy

Oem fj55 side steps link:
oem fj55 side steps?

Btw enjoying your thread

 

[Solace in Solitude]

Apologies!! I can't believe I've never seen your thread!!

Good stuff here!!

And, again, thanks for the help you've provided me.. especially with the BOSS air bags!!

 

[bikersmurf]

Apologies!! I can't believe I've never seen your thread!!

Good stuff here!!

And, again, thanks for the help you've provided me.. especially with the BOSS air bags!!

Still like my air bags... wish I could've gone with BOSS bags but they wouldn't fit due to my rear discs.

Danny, How are your's working out?

 

[Solace in Solitude]

Perfect!!

I recommended them, a few days ago, in a 'suspension' thread.

Best mod I've done!!

My RideRites have been in my Tundra for about 8 years ... never a problem with them either.

Have a great day, John!!

 

[bikersmurf]

Wish I had better news... could be worse though.

I'm hoping to have a new timing chain put in this summer and get the roof off. Unfortunately, health hasn't been cooperating so it has been off the road for over a year... kinda bummed about that. Won't mention how long the Scout II power steering has been on the shelf which will make it more drive able for a gimp like me.

 

[bikersmurf]

I don't know if I linked in this thread that came up recently...
Two speed rear heater.
I've yet to add a speed selector switch... hasn't been a priority in my life.

 

[bikersmurf]

I'm thinking my hazard switch is in need of some TLC. Unfortunately the 40 has been sitting for a while. All the turn signals are working properly. Pull the hazard switch and they stop flashing.

Is there a fuse that could do this?

Or is it time to figure out how to get the switch out? I'll try cycling it a hundred times first though.

Got the timing chain replaced... it's time to pull the valve covers and see what's going on. Terrible racket from 'under' the intake manifold... have ruled out new water pump & old alternator. Motor sounds great other than sick noise Sounds like a knock/tap from top end. Doesn't sound like rod or main bearing.

Any thoughts? Collapsed lifter? Broken rocker?
I'd post a video, but haven't figured it out yet.

 

[lcwizard]

Still like my air bags... wish I could've gone with BOSS bags but they wouldn't fit due to my rear discs.

Yeah, I had to run 1" spacers

 

[bikersmurf]

I'd need more than a spacer... from pictures it looks like it would need to be inboarded to clear the caliper.

 

[bikersmurf]

After some investigation I've determined the current motor has an issue with a rod/bearing.

SBC 350 diagnosis

Right after deciding that the current motor is rebuildable a motor came up for sale.

Pros: 1972, 72k miles, single owner, well maintained, 155 psi compression, No-blue smoke, sounds healthy, can have the 40 on the road next week

Cons: 155 vs 180 (older SBC), 175 hp vs 300 hp (+/-)

So after some brief consideration, I've decided to swap in the RV cam, double roller timing chain, SP-2P-2 intake, and replace some seals and gaskets. If I'm not happy with the performance, I can easily recoup the $230 usd that the 350 SBC, Turbo 350, and spare fleet-side driveshafts cost.

Worst case, I can then take 2 years (or however long it takes) to rebuild my previous SBC. Perhaps even replace the Crank that'll need machining work with a '400' Crank, rods, flywheel, and harmonic balancer. It would take a very long time, but it could be worth it.

 

[bikersmurf]

Some day it would be fun to teach my kids about how motors work by building one... and why not a 383 stroker.




Or perhaps take the easier route and just bore the 350 and bring it back to its former glory that ran 25 of 27 hrs up the I5 spinning 3k rpm while sipping a logic defyingly small amount of fuel +/- $130 USD.

 

[bikersmurf]

The 72 is a 4 bolt... in the process of scrapping off 40 years of crud. I'd take a picture of the mountain of 'dirt' but what'd be the point. I'm glad it didn't burn... shocked that I've even had to chisel clay off the ram horns... the manifolds on the old 350 burned everything off including VHT paint.

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

@bikersmurf - I must have misread in your other post - were you running an SP2P on your 300ish HP engine? I'm tossing around the 290hp/350tq Gen 1 crate sold everywhere (as opposed to the 190hp/300tq) but was a little worried the SP2P and 2" rams horns wouldn't breathe well enough to take advantage...

 

[bikersmurf]

Yes. Stock with a 2 barrel and single exhaust was 250 hp... with 10.25:1, RV Cam, 4 barrel, dual exhaust, ram horns... my estimate was about 300.

With the SP-2P it idled smoother and quieter. Excellent low end and throttle response. Vacuum Secondaries opened up super quick when called upon. The 70cc heads had medium sized valves, but since I limit revs to 4K they're not an issue.

I'd run your SP2P unless you're concerned about 1/4 mile times. It should work well at low to 4k and still get decent economy. Mine let me idle along at 10 mph in high range, despite having 33s and 3.70 gears.

 

[bikersmurf]

@bikersmurf - I must have misread in your other post - were you running an SP2P on your 300ish HP engine? I'm tossing around the 290hp/350tq Gen 1 crate sold everywhere (as opposed to the 190hp/300tq) but was a little worried the SP2P and 2" rams horns wouldn't breathe well enough to take advantage...

On the matter of crate motors... it is my understanding that the distributor gear on your points distributor is NOT COMPATIBLE with the cam that comes in the crate motor. I don't know a lot about it... just one will eat the other.

 

[bikersmurf]

The 72 is a 4 bolt... in the process of scrapping off 40 years of crud. I'd take a picture of the mountain of 'dirt' but what'd be the point. I'm glad it didn't burn... shocked that I've even had to chisel clay off the ram horns... the manifolds on the old 350 burned everything off including VHT paint.

I've finally got the motor clean. Newer Cam, Lifters, Rockers, new gaskets & seals everywhere, new water pump, new harmonic balanced, SP-2P intake... even a splash of orange on it.

I can really understand why people buy crate motors... it feels like it would've been easier to rebuild the motor than remove 45 years of grime. I was pleased to see how little varnish & grime there was on the inside of the motor. After a quick wipe with a paper towel, the valve springs and retainers practically shined.

 

[waiting for time]

Pics please

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

On the matter of crate motors... it is my understanding that the distributor gear on your points distributor is NOT COMPATIBLE with the cam that comes in the crate motor. I don't know a lot about it... just one will eat the other.

My 283 had already been converted to HEI, but it is worth considering - I wonder what distributor gear I was running, old vs new style...

Also - I agree we need pictures of this engine. I feel your paint about removing grime - I'm trying to clean up a transfercase right now...SO many ribs in the casing to collect gunk.

 

[bikersmurf]

On a vertical surface. The only reason it isn't thicker is that it had a short water pump and the harmonic balancer was knocking it off. The pile behind was knocked off with a paint scraper.

Before:

After:

Still have the old valve covers on to keep paint off the aluminum ones. The old ones are rare ones that came with not one but two '710' caps.

Pics please