Builds My 40 Build... 20 years and Counting... Purists beware, this may hurt... :D (2 Viewers)

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Wow -

That is REALLY quiet. Dare I say quieter than most of the inline 6/2F trucks I've seen.

I guess I shouldn't be that surprised - as you said, I've seen many old V8 pickups over the year that ran very quietly.

PS was that a thumbs up from the road worker at the end of the video?
 
I'm getting used to the quiet. It's very different, but it's growing on me. I've been tweaking the timing as I'm putting some miles on it.

I've still got more than enough power, but it's not as much of a hotrod as it was. I've not wheeled it yet, but low end torque is plentiful... and it likes to put along at low RPMs without missing a beat.

I've burned a little over half a tank and have been all over town and back... no idea on economy as I've not investigated why the speedometer/odometer stopped working after the engine died. It's odd since the transmission wasn't touched... nor the speedometer cable or speedometer.
 
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A few random pictures of the engine bay, exhaust, 4 gal onboard air tanks. It was tight to run the exhaust around the air tank, between the axle, shock, auxiliary tank, frame, and tire. If it were a pavement queen, it'd be a lot easier... however, the goal is to build a rig that can flex to its limits.
 
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Switching back to the open element filter again made a huge difference. With the stock filter housing responsiveness was somewhat lacking. Now with the open element air filter, the vacuum secondaries will open properly.

It's not surprising that a carb with a 6" opening is choked off by a housing with a 1.5" opening. What is surprising is that Chev sold them that way... the poor Q-jet that was on there never got to breathe.
 
Wow -

That is REALLY quiet. Dare I say quieter than most of the inline 6/2F trucks I've seen.

I guess I shouldn't be that surprised - as you said, I've seen many old V8 pickups over the year that ran very quietly.

PS was that a thumbs up from the road worker at the end of the video?

Now that I've reinstalled the open element filter, I've found one can actually hear there's a V8 under the hood when the secondaries open.

I'll likely modify the stock housing to work with some form of snorkel... but for daily driving, it'll be mothballed.

Since I did lower the Rad during the V8 conversion, I've also considered turning the opening above the grill into a cold air intake/scoop. If I can creat a duct to route air from the opening to the filter, it would reduce the intake air temperature & improve hot weather performance. Taking it a step further, it could even function as a Ram-Air scoop. Time will tell if I can make a design that works with CAD (Cardboard Aided Design). :D
 
Having put on a few more miles with the open filter, I'm growing to like the new engine and the quiet exhaust. It's a total sleeper with very little to indicate what's under the hood. Then you put your foot into it, the secondaries flip open and the V8 roars to life and it takes off :D

It is far tamer than the last 350 with 10.25:1 compression... but it's no slouch and has power to spare.
 
Found this 'Dome light' on clearance at Walmart for $9. If you can find one, it looks like it'll fit the factory bolt spacing. :D
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If I get it installed, it'll be the first time in 26 years my interior light didn't have an aircraft grade aluminum housing with D cells in it. Probably will still have a 3D Mag... never know it might be needed.

Edit... missed adding pic
 
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Found this 'Dome light' on clearance at Walmart for $9. If you can find one, it looks like it'll fit the factory bolt spacing. :D

If I get it installed, it'll be the first time in 26 years my interior light didn't have an aircraft grade aluminum housing with D cells in it. Probably will still have a 3D Mag... never know it might be needed.

Those Mag lights are nice legal weapons to have on hand... ;)
 
Traded old motor for an new toy. Also picked up a 2 hp 1 phase motor to replace the 1.5 hp 3 phase.

All the wiring will need to be gone through... the old motor's wiring was connected with nuts and bolts wrapped in electrical tape.

The motor mount will also need to be adapted. I was able to hook it up and get it working. The compressor is super quiet. Volume seemed good, but the bleader was broken off so it wouldn't fill the tank.

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Fixed the broken bleeder... had the tank up to 140 psi. I'll have to determine the best size of pulley. The 1725 rpm pulley is 5.5". The 2 hp is 3450 rpm. With a 3" Pulley the motor temperature sensor trips... 2.75" would be ideal, but they're not as common. 2.5" works wel, but I'd rather not loose any pump rpm. I've read that the higher rpm motors have less torque. Might be better to wait now and then then cook the motor.

Any thoughts? Better to run the pump at a bit lower RPM and less motor load... or higher RPM and use the full 2 hp?
 
I brought the original pulley to the store and measured the outside diameter of belt wrapped around the pulley. I then selected a pulley that measured 2.65" around the outside of the belt.

Changing from 2.5" to 2.65" may not seem like much... but it'll make around a 10% difference in output cfm. When first installed it would trip the 20 A breaker on the new 120 V circuit. After adjusting tension and alignment, it'll now runs without tripping the breaker. Since it's rated at 17.5 A, I feel comfortable with my choice. The pump is also spinning at the original rpm... and I hardly want to hotrod a 43 year old compressor. Other than intake noise, the pump is super quiet. Gotta love a USA built compressor from the 70s :D

On the 40 front, the speedometer is working better than it has in 20 years now that it has a new cable.
 
I have to say that having a good compressor with adequate volume to drive air tools makes a big difference. I reached for my pneumatic drill (which I seldom use), and found it to be far more powerful.
 
That's a cool compressor, I love the old USA stuff too!
 
It's important to pay attention to rated CFM of all regulators, filters, fittings, and lines.

Ratings on air tools are very misleading... just because an impact is labeled at 6 CFM, it doesn't mean anything. The manufacturer has factored in that it's only being used for short bursts.

In reality, it likely uses 27 CFM when operating. Cheeping out on components will make for a tool that only works... but not as designed. I have several 1/2" drive impacts that wouldn't crack a lug nut... this makes me think my cheap compressor has a low flow regulator.
 
Had to change out the regulator on the outside for that same reason, would run out of air in the line.
 
I was thinking my air chisel was worn out... time to rethink that.
 
Had to change out the regulator on the outside for that same reason, would run out of air in the line.
I did change my regulator from 1/2” to 3/4” but I didn’t notice a difference.:hmm:
Maybe when I use multiple devices.
 

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