Build My 40 Build... 20 years and Counting... Purists beware, this may hurt... :D

[bikersmurf]

Back in ‘92 I built a new rear tub and haven’t given it much thought since. It’s still going strong as ever, and I’ve really enjoyed the extra weight over the rear axle. I’ve been planning to replace the aluminum 1/4 panels for many years. When I wrapped the outside 29ish years ago it was a quick and dirty solution.

Well… time has caught up with me. The section of floor under the driver’s feet has now moved up the list.

I should have warned those of you who think a rusty truck is one that has a couple patches of surface rust.

Fortunately I stashed some door sills and the front floor of a tub that was coming off and being replaced with an old Aqualu tub. Once I dig out the patches, I’ll determine which parts I can reuse, and what parts will need to be fabricated.

But, before you get your popcorn and settle in, reread the title of this thread… it’ll be at least 4-5 days before I have any time to work on it. I’m hoping it’ll look good in the end, but it’s going to take a while. While I’m at it, I’ll tie the cage mounts into the body mounts and the frame. If I need to do it, I might as well build it better. Although it’s useful that the front floor is being held up by the floor, the floor isn’t supporting the front cage in any way.

 

[too tall]

Jeesus, can't wait to see how you approach that issue. Personally, I'd go find another 40 series to start with. Not much left of that.

 

[bikersmurf]

Jeesus, can't wait to see how you approach that issue. Personally, I'd go find another 40 series to start with. Not much left of that.

All that’s left of the 40 I bought in ‘91 is the cowl, windshield frame, floor under passenger & drivers seats, front doors, door sills, and front bib. It’s reached a point that it’s easier to list what’s left of the 40 I bought in ‘91 as opposed to listing everything I have replaced in the last 34 years. Suffice it to say that I stopped keeping track after it surpassed 36 donors. If any of the 40s I got parts from had parts from other 40s that had been parted out, then there is a nonzero chance that some of the parts I got thinking they were from a new donor likely originally came from a donor already on my list.

When @Toshi38 put an Aqualu tub on Andy in my driveway, I kept the trans cover, door sills, and everything that was left of the front floor. They aren’t perfect, but they are 10x better than what I started with in ‘91. As you can imagine, this isn’t something that can be fixed properly in 15 minutes. So, it’ll take some careful planning to reconstruct the nonexistent door sills and floor.

Believe it or not, the rust on the cowl can be fixed with a piece of sheet metal the size of a dollar bill… or at least everything but what lies beneath the windshield frame to cowl weatherstripping. For now I’ll be leaving that can of worms for another year.

I’ve got sections of Andy’s original floor, better front doors, another hatch, a 60 series transmission top cover, and another transmission tunnel. I’ll be breaking this down into manageable chunks since it’s insured, and I want to keep driving it over the summer. I also don’t have the time or energy to restore the everything to 100% this year.

 

[bikersmurf]

I agree that this corner looks bad, but here are some other areas previously shown in this thread…

Scans of pictures printed on film…

Frame is due for fresh paint, but only has a bit of surface rust. Tub is still looking solid after 33 years. Hood, hardtop, axles, and drivetrain are in great shape.

 

[bikersmurf]

Out of order a bit.

With the P/S conversion I swapped in a “rebuilt Saginaw pump” heart for $50. It didn’t feel worthwhile to keep mixing and matching parts for the used pile to find one that didn’t howl. Unfortunately 2.5 years later the P/S pump was getting louder and louder. So I bought a new one for about $100 USD.

Heart you’re thinking…

Saginaw pumps can be removed from the “Sardine can” housing. Although it could theoretically be possible to find a complete older style Saginaw pump that mounts to the lower side of a long water pump and also has a double pulley, it would be very difficult. The early pumps usually have a pulley with a keyway and a nut… not a press on pump. Also, one of the older parts guys (& corroded) I spoke to said he’d never seen a double pulley on a Saginaw pump.

So when I say Saginaw “heart” I mean the metal pump that fits inside my pump housing and that I can press on the double pulley. If I walk into almost any parts store and ask for a pump for a ‘79 Chevy 4x4, I’ll get the right center for my housing and pulley. Easy Peasy.

This is what I thought was cool about the new pump…

This pump came with a printout showing the test results for the new pump… and it was only about $10 more than I rebuilt pump.

The pressure relief valve tests at about 1297 PSI, which seems to be exactly where I want it. After installing it, it works perfectly. Not much noise and it turns my 33x10.50 A/T tires easily with one finger while stationary on dry pavement. I could increase the pressure and flow, but it’s more than enough for most people’s standards which makes it exactly what my angry nervous system needs. Also, if Edelman found that I modified the pump they sold me, they likely wouldn’t honour the lifetime warranty on the pump.

 

[bikersmurf]

After watching and reading your stuff for the last 2 years…something caught me eye today… “purists beware”

You have some really great ideas and implement them well….had to tell you that..

I’ve recently learned that the requirements for collector plates have changed. Collector plates drastically reduce the cost of ensure an eligible collector vehicle… meaning if you already have an insured vehicle, the insurance cost drops to a couple hundred bucks. The restrictions require that it not be used to drive to work or school and, as previously stated, you have a second vehicle that’s insured and roadworthy.

For most of my life vehicles had to be 25 years old, 100% stock (or a factory option) and in let new condition. If it was extremely rare (or very limited production) then collector plates may be available for 15 years or older vehicles.

Eventually modified vehicles were added if they were from the 1950s or older. I’d thought I my 40 was way too far from stock to be eligible. They may allow for safety upgrades to brakes, lights, and seatbelts.

However, just recently I learned that the rules have changed. Now, vehicles built in 1974, or before, can be eligible despite any modifications that have been made. So a TPI 350, TJ bench seat, four wheel disc brakes, winch, power steering and other modifications are permitted. The vehicle still needs to in collectible condition, but it is now possible to meet the qualifications to get the discounted insurance.

In other words, if I repair my rusted out front floors, rockers, and 1/4 panels… and fix up my spare front bib and windshield frame, I should be able to save $1000 plus a year for insurance. Given I want to do these repairs and splash some new paint on it, I could get the cheap insurance coverage. Rather than having to pay the full insurance price for three different vehicles (+/- $3800 / year total).


Now I know paying an extra $1000 a year might be nothing for some people… but I’m not there yet, and may never get there. Now spending $1000 on a home paint job could actually save me money.

 

[knuckle47]

@bikersmurf i went to DMv in NJ to register my truck as a,”vintage” vehicle. Armed with everything they say they need including a photo. The guy denied my wants. When he saw the photos, he said oh come on, look at the winch and those shocks. I don’t think those are demands of the intended law. Shock absorbers had rubber covers on the piston shaft and a winch should not be a non-stock issue as winches were certainly available 35 years ago.

The beauty of what we call classic registration here is that you never pay for a registration as long as you own, the car beyond the initial payment.

The fee is $75 and you’re done it is true however there are limits to mileage daily use work or off-roading..(auto-correct). I said OK fine it cost me $75 annually to renew the current registration but now it has been a few years and I am thinking about it…..this guy had a set of balls denying the vehicle it’s due classic registration, which, according to the regulation, is simply a motor vehicle more than 25 years old. this certainly is and by implementing his own ideas on classic vehicle, what makes him the boss.

In hindsight, I’m getting more pissed off and I am going down there the next. Which I believe is November and debate the issue with their supervisor if it needs to be debated. And just 10 years of registration, if the fees don’t go up, that is still $750 compared to the initial fee of only 75.

 

[bikersmurf]

Picked up some 1/2 decent used fenders. Came off an Idaho 40 that was shipped over here. The glass fenders with no inner fenders will be coming off to be replaced by these.

The worst corner…

And probably the only area that will need to be rebuilt. Plus filling in the steering box cutout.

By far the best fenders I’ve ever owned.

 

[bikersmurf]

Is it wrong that I want to blow off all my responsibilities and bolt on these new fenders. And once I’m at it… repair my rusty floor… and door sills.

While I’m at it, I’ve always wanted a blue 40. I could touch these up, paint my new hatch and doors to match, and pick up the new (to me) windshield and front bib and paint and install them. Since I have gone this far I should paint the rest too…

 

[bikersmurf]

Not as rewarding as bolting on new parts, but still worthwhile. It beats staring at a screen any day.

 

[bikersmurf]

Old Vs new (bigger and better) for 1/3rd the price.

My 1998 Husqvarna looks tiny next to the’08+ Stihl.

 

[knuckle47]

@bikersmurf that is a beautiful chainsaw. I bought this barn Farm Boss back in 1977 and I used it every fall season for over 45 years. The only thing I needed to maintain was a few filters and a bar or two and chains the saw is a monster. Unfortunately I can no longer use it because it is too heavy for me at this age so I replaced it with the 180 C. It’s a 16 inch saw which is small but you don’t have to pull the recoil starter. You just tension it and the spring lets loose and spins the shaft.

because it is too heavy for me at this age so I replaced it with the MS180 C. It’s a 16 inch saw which is small but you don’t have to pull the recoil starter. You just tension it and the spring let’s loose and spins the shaft.

That saw that you have will go through many decades of excellent use. Good luck. Be careful.

 

[bikersmurf]

I picked the Stihl up for $80 at a garage sale. This is how it looked when I bought it.

When I brought it home the chain would turn when I pulled it and get super tight and then loose. I dumped all the fowl smelling gas out of it, replaced the spark plug, and replaced the clutch springs and needle bearings.

After pouring in some fresh gas and cleaning the thick layer of sawdust off the air filter… I soon had it running. The plastic cage for the needle bearings had melted which led to the drive sprocket being off centre. I also replaced the clutch springs because I’m sure they got very hot and the clutch seemed to engage at too low RPM.

Oh… some citrus based engine degreaser made it look like this…

Rather than like an old neglected saw.

 

[bikersmurf]

@bikersmurf that is a beautiful chainsaw. I bought this barn Farm Boss back in 1977 and I used it every fall season for over 45 years. The only thing I needed to maintain was a few filters and a bar or two and chains the saw is a monster. Unfortunately I can no longer use it because it is too heavy for me at this age so I replaced it with the 180 C. It’s a 16 inch saw which is small but you don’t have to pull the recoil starter. You just tension it and the spring lets loose and spins the shaft.

because it is too heavy for me at this age so I replaced it with the MS180 C. It’s a 16 inch saw which is small but you don’t have to pull the recoil starter. You just tension it and the spring let’s loose and spins the shaft.

That saw that you have will go through many decades of excellent use. Good luck. Be careful.

Don’t worry, I’ll be careful. I’ve already done first aid on one shoulder that was missing an arm, and I have no desire to see that again.

 

[bikersmurf]

Picked up another windshield frame. Mine has a lot of visible rust and I’m sure there’s a lot I can’t see.

First I tried welding some bolts to the dent thinking I could pull it out with them. No dice. They practically fell off as soon as I tried.

 

[bikersmurf]

Next I pushed from the inside using an Allan wrench and vice grips…

This worked much better. The cherry red metal would turn black when the Allan wrench touched it on the inside. Once I was happy with the position I could push it out.

I was able to reach the inside by going through the hole that the dome light wire goes through.

Even though it won’t be visible, I’ll likely fill in the remaining low spots with brazing rod. I hate Bondo, and braze will never flake off.