Builds My 40 Build... 20 years and Counting... Purists beware, this may hurt... :D

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

We’ve not seen that much... but snow removal equipment is almost nonexistent.
 
5C1FE110-10B8-4FED-A5B2-B1C052B64F53.webp
7AEF5134-7B30-4757-BA96-E299FFD8D642.webp


Just got home and my co-pilot is ready to go out again. :D

We’ve been having a streak of hot dry weather and I’ve been enjoying the 40. Still need to dig out the 1/2 doors. Been a lot of stairs and thumbs ups... I’m ok with them even when they come from Jeep owners who admire it.
 
I just had new keys cut for my '74 Landcruiser door locks. The local locksmith I use told me the last key he cut with that blank was in July '99... I think it might have been me. Now for the bad news, when he told me he only had 2 blanks left and wouldn't be reordering... I had 2 keys cut.

In case anyone else needs a single sided pre-75 key cut, the blank is a Dominion Lock Co - TA 2. I seem to recall over the years that there are a couple different blanks. Here are what I've found for comparison...

Key.webp


The picture would be the shape of the keyhole (not looking at the end of the key). If I were to guess, the alternate I've seen was likely a TA4, but It's been 10 years so I could be wrong.
 
Came across TPI from an ‘85 with painless harness, manual, and all ‘the parts’. Price is pretty cheap ($400 usd) but is it worth it?
MAF is supposed to be fairly forgiving, but how well will it run a ‘72 motor with 165 psi compression?

It’s got a mild cam, runs like a top, pulls super well, etc. Should I leave well enough alone?

I’d expect smoother power, and slightly improved economy... but?
 
DBACB71F-415B-475C-9E92-D6BE2D057568.webp
F6FBB6FA-EC42-4AF0-9779-5832489D519A.webp
4C8CCD15-7F8F-4E7F-98D2-9E1BCE0B0544.webp
495B4072-2709-4095-B6B4-35B5C4CEFCB7.webp
841F9904-A2F0-4EA5-8138-E519CE1E2D91.webp


Thanks to another mud member, I picked up some aftermarket SOR window regulators. I’m happy with the quality... although they do flex slightly more than stock. Colour is way off my year. Wish it was closer in colour to mine, but they work and I can always paint them.
 
FYI, an 8x10 tarp fits almost perfect. I split a length of 1/2” heather hose and slipped it over the top edge of the windshield frame to prevent it from tearing the tarp. A couple short seams with the sewing machine and it would be a tailored fit.
1E83A6C9-F9C0-48F1-AC5F-73F552D4CDFF.jpeg
B717A9C9-562C-478D-A0F2-B9C3D5A70BB4.jpeg
CF090F93-F3FC-43EC-B957-E5AB214B4949.jpeg

Hardtop is due to go back on any day.
 
This should work well...
E1D019A9-DB73-4193-945B-6563CC93F7B4.webp
2CD7D031-8942-4344-B831-B2CE7AFE62A6.webp

And a painless harness to make it work...
C55BF905-37C3-4D29-A9E2-F23D91B30D28.webp

And an 8274 set aside to trade for more spare TPI parts...
D51772E6-8CDB-4BC6-805C-DFBD0225FCA9.webp
 
A85FD0D9-214D-4CA1-8981-75239D2F2CCD.webp

Had a couple friends help reinstall the hardtop. Three is the magic number... it’s never been so easy before. It also helps that this is the healthiest hardtop I’ve ever owned... and I’ve fixed the cowl so it’s not leaning back... but geeze no cursing or swearing and it’s sitting in the right place. Bolting it down will have to wait till it’s daylight again. Getting dark by 4:45 pm cuts into wrenching time.

Since the garage isn’t high enough to lift it off inside, I’m hoping to rig a redneck hoist from a beam off the deck (going to a tree). I was given a toy winch with wireless remote that’ll make pulling the roof easier. But for this winter... extra manpower did the trick.
 
9D96B0E7-12F8-40D6-873A-07D8FEC4828E.jpeg
7846CFC8-73AB-4F52-AC39-1F44B473C829.jpeg

A540C1EB-CAC4-41ED-822F-5E26D037EC80.jpeg


Future project. Cleaning up the wheel opening and covering the wheel. The tires don’t stick out very far, but these flares will cover them, look very similar to the front fenders, fit well, are durable, and cheap.

$50 for four... just need to get rid of the front two TJ flares... no use for them.
 
My 283 had already been converted to HEI, but it is worth considering - I wonder what distributor gear I was running, old vs new style...

Also - I agree we need pictures of this engine. I feel your paint about removing grime - I'm trying to clean up a transfercase right now...SO many ribs in the casing to collect gunk.

Random thought... I’ve been collecting everything I’ll need to install TPI. I’ve got an aftermarket RV cam already. Should I use the distributor gear from my points distributor or the one that came on the aftermarket distributor for an ‘87 Camaro?

Will the new gear eat my ‘97 cam?
 
When I did the SBC swap I mounted the battery under the drivers seat. I never saw a tidy solution till now...
56FAB085-E08F-4FE8-8675-0EAB469211F7.webp
F96D4E18-1677-400D-8FCB-A801E7412AB9.webp
1F6BD9E1-FE21-4A58-840C-130C019087AA.webp


Fifth wheel battery box with vented top. Only unknown is if the 31 series battery can be shoehorned in... or if it’s 1/4” too short. The box is 13” x 7.5” x 10” and a quick measurement of the battery is that it’s 13” x 7.25” x 9.5”. Only way to know for sure will be a test fit.
 
Last edited:
After design in CAD (Cardboard Aided Design), I cut out some backing plates...
0FAE19BA-04BA-43E9-8DF2-F38D0C6917F8.jpeg

After some further tweaks...
4D2FD35A-5CC8-4ABB-BC88-C764859E6D37.jpeg
430B16CD-9759-4880-BA15-6CC3ADFD6F61.jpeg
6D8F46A8-3F61-42A1-8052-3A29A1B2B45E.jpeg

It should work. This a small step... after far too many years. I’ve been accumulating parts for a Scout II P/S conversion for the best part of decade.

Now don’t get too excited. I’ve had this rig 29 years of contemplation/planning, and nearly 10 years of collecting... I’ve started. I’ve always felt anything worth doing is worth doing right... so I plan to do it right... but that doesn’t mean quick. ;)
 
Last edited:
View attachment 2053333

Just got home and my co-pilot is ready to go out again. :D

We’ve been having a streak of hot dry weather and I’ve been enjoying the 40. Still need to dig out the 1/2 doors. Been a lot of stairs and thumbs ups... I’m ok with them even when they come from Jeep owners who admire it.
Ali isn’t going to help this build go faster... oh well...
065BB7C4-4DD0-44B0-8AA3-C5ED05C0D083.webp
F68CDC5A-28D3-4734-BBE8-89F66A65514F.webp
E62422AA-3612-4CD1-A97D-8C3E1A67646E.webp
 
Part of fixing these trucks is getting the right tools. Many grinders don’t stand up. This should...
3E4330FF-BA0B-4D18-BA81-97F46C269E58.webp
63E64F69-7A87-4AC9-BA3E-5D91E68797C4.webp
 
I've, in essence, given up on grinders. I have an 8 inch Black and Decker that has a bent shaft, and I buy Porter Cable 6 inch side grinders 3 at a time. Funny thing, those $20 PC grinders last at least a year before they let the smoke out.... some even longer, I wish I could say the same about the DeWalt I had prior... all they did was cost more money.
 
I’ve been running a 6” metabo grinder and a 4” Milwaukee grinder for years. They’ve both taken a ton of punishment. I did have to replace a switch on the metabo once. The Milwaukee is my “go to” and has never given me an issue.
 
I've, in essence, given up on grinders. I have an 8 inch Black and Decker that has a bent shaft, and I buy Porter Cable 6 inch side grinders 3 at a time. Funny thing, those $20 PC grinders last at least a year before they let the smoke out.... some even longer, I wish I could say the same about the DeWalt I had prior... all they did was cost more money.
I had an old Mikita 5” thanks I bought used... lasted 15+ years. Bought another somewhat lighter Mikita... died the third time I used it... it was just outside of warranty. Bought a cheapie... burnt up after cutting 1’ of cruiser tub... Returned it.

Bought a Ryobi 5” with a three year warranty... stood up decently, had it replaced under warranty after 1.5 years, and so far go good. For $50 with a three warranty, it’s better than the other cheapie and the newer Makita.

I’ve been tempted to buy another 5” 10 amp Makita... but they are $130, and I believe quality has slipped since they stopped making them in Japan. This older 7” 15 amp popped up in almost new condition for $60,,. Too good a deal to pass up when I’ve been looking for a stronger one for some polishing. It’ll also be the solution for rust removal on the tail end of my Ambo frame.

I’ll pass along the warning I got from friends in the polishing field... “buffers are like little kids, they’ll grab whatever you’re working on, hit you with it, and throw it at you... if they get a chance. Never let your guard down.”
 
So I’m doing a lot of grinding welds as I learn how to do sheet metal repair. I bought a m18 Milwaukee grinder to back up my Makita corded grinder. The Makita has been kicking around for 15 years- light duty household stuff, but always up for the job. Promptly gave up the ghost at the beginning of this project this fall. Now I’m trying to juggle batteries for the Milwaukee and feeling the motor heat up as I go. I think I’m gonna bite the bullet and buy another 110v grinder. Really like the Milwaukee’s at work, they’ve been used hard and out away wet and they still come back for more. I’ll see what they have locally.
 
So I’m doing a lot of grinding welds as I learn how to do sheet metal repair. I bought a m18 Milwaukee grinder to back up my Makita corded grinder. The Makita has been kicking around for 15 years- light duty household stuff, but always up for the job. Promptly gave up the ghost at the beginning of this project this fall. Now I’m trying to juggle batteries for the Milwaukee and feeling the motor heat up as I go. I think I’m gonna bite the bullet and buy another 110v grinder. Really like the Milwaukee’s at work, they’ve been used hard and out away wet and they still come back for more. I’ll see what they have locally.
I’ve read some positive reviews on Hitachi which have a five year warranty. Dewalt also looks like a serious contender.

For cutting, the ultra thin discs help prevent grinder meltdown. I’d be somewhat afraid they’d explode if they grabbed, got pinched, or twisted while using the 15 a beast. It’s 11 lbs... at least it won’t be easily thrown across the room. But if it does grab, it has the potential to do some serious harm at something like 1.5 hp. My 2 newer 10” miter saws are only 13 amp... my older is 15 :D
 
Small step forward...
5F953170-16C9-4542-8EA2-8F5A056B5259.jpeg

Original shaft

10F3C90C-B4E7-4BAF-B243-53892631DCDE.jpeg

Rag joint end cut off...

6F15EB51-2581-4E80-8E30-E5C941AB6726.jpeg

Ground to match DD shaft...

81405FA7-920D-44B6-80F0-B457FAE2F8E1.jpeg

Flaming River DD U-joint and collapsible shaft. The second U-joint has splines on one end to match the Scout II Saginaw input shaft.
 
Last edited:

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom