My 1980 FJ40 Build (2 Viewers)

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Jeremiah Proffitt just opened up his new shop, give him a call and see if he will sell you the rear 4 link kit he used to make. It was specifically for the fj40. As far as your steering is concerned, I see you have the super beef in the knuckles and tie rods. However this makes the sector shaft the weak link. A broken sector shaft on the trail would be a nightmare I would not want to face. If you did hydro assist then I would think that would relieve the sector shaft from stress if you bounced into a rock hard or something. I kept my relay rod stock, but tie rod is beefed up, so that if something happened the relay rod would bend, in which case it would just affect lock to lock steering but not toe. I could bend it back somewhat straight and hopefully get home without much issue.
 
I opted to stick with the wishbone link system it currently had but had to make a new crossmember since the old one would not work after moving the transfer case back a few inches. Not a complete finish but it will get me to the new house this next week. Then in the new garage I plan to add a few gussets for added strength. I do plan to full 4 link it in the future.

 
I got it on the road after fixing the transmission cooling lines and drove it to its new home! It was a whopping 2 mile drive and it broke down before I even got to the house. Coasted off the road, fired back up again and backed it in to the garage where i have been troubleshooting it since. Its nice having a garage to be able to work on it when I want.
 
jim land said:
do you have some poser suspension flex pics , i bet it flex like mad
Click to expand...

Haha, I do not. The PO is a friend of mine, some of our friends that have wheeled with it (when it was able) say it is pretty flexy. The PO has actually layed it over once, too slow to damage anything more than the hard top. I haven't had it out since I bought it. Just a few more things to go until it is trail ready but I will be sure to get plenty of pictures when I am testing its abilities.
 
Nice looking rig?

My shackle reversal looks identical to yours. Just curious, Which direction are your front leaf packs? It looks as if your packs were flipped 180 as well, giving you a longer front wheelbase.

Keep up the good work!
 
White Stripe said:
That thing is really tall man. Low center of gravity is really important. I would lower it a bunch unless you're just planning mild trails.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the insight, It is a very tall rig with very very soft suspension. I have not had it on the trail yet but I will be off on mild trails for the most part. I would like to (some time in the future) widen and lower it but this will be later. It is a difficult judgement call for me to keep building this the way I would have liked to or keep rolling with the way the PO had built it. I hate to change too much because I have also a 1972 stripped chassis that I can start from square one and build it from a start. The only thing keeping me from that is funds and research.
 
SMG said:
Nice looking rig?

My shackle reversal looks identical to yours. Just curious, Which direction are your front leaf packs? It looks as if your packs were flipped 180 as well, giving you a longer front wheelbase.

Keep up the good work!
Click to expand...


Thank you! I believe they were flipped 180 but I cannot say 100%. I will definitely find out though. I was told at one point in time by the PO but its been a while. I forgot what springs they were.
 
So part of the troubles I have had trying to get it running good. I got it on the road a few months ago when I brought it home, it ran great for the first few minutes then started cutting out/sputtering at around 1,500RPM. I was able to get it home, read the codes and went from there. Replaced the ignition module, no effect. Replaced the distributor, cap & rotor, no effect (Ive read that the pickup coil inside the dist has failed causing this error 43). Next I will look into the knock sensor and keep going from there.


 
So after chasing around the ESC module and not getting anywhere, turns out that the error code 43 is related to the knock sensor. So I bought a new knock sensor and installed it.... No change, ran the same way and still had error code 43. I read that the connectors can dry and crack causing them to go bad so I replaced the connector.... Nothing changed. So thinking I could have a short in the harness somewhere, I ran a new wire from the computer to the sensor and still had the same issue. So this lead me to think it could be the computer. I purchased a new computer from Howell EFI and put it in. Without even starting the motor I read the computer, Error code 43. I called Howell and explained the issue I was having. They said it shouldn't have a code without even seeing the motor run just yet. I bought another computer from a local salvage yard (just because) and plugged it in, error code 43 right off the bat. How could you have the same exact code between 3 computers, new wiring and connector? I was stumped. So I went down to the local Oriley's Auto part store to get another knock sensor. When looking up the part for a 1995 5.7l TBI it prompted a knock sensor for an Automatic transmission or one for a Manual transmission. They didn't ask me this at Auto Zone on my initial purchase. So I bought the one for the Automatic, went home and spent two minutes to put it in, read the computer.... NO CODE. I looked up the previously purchased knock sensor and it turns out that it was one for a manual transmission. I'm not sure the difference between the two but all this time and money spent chasing around this problem and it turns out that it was just the wrong part? Well after all this I was able to get rid of the check engine code but still have issues with the way its running. After having the battery disconnected for some time I can hook it up and pull out of the driveway, drive around running great for the first minute or two and then it will cut out around 1,400 RPM's. It doesn't throw a code. I can turn it off, start it back up again and have the same issue but if i disconnect the battery and try again hours later it will run fine the first minute or two and then act up. Wondering if it would have anything to do with the timing, I adjusted the timing to true Zero. Unplugging the timing advance wire and adjusting the distributor with a timing light to Zero degrees (just before it stalls out). Tightened the distributor and connected the timing advance. At idle the timing was 22 degrees advanced. Drove it around and still had the same issue. I read a few threads where people recommended you set the timing at 8 degrees instead of zero. So I did this and at idle after reconnecting the timing advance it would be idling at 28 degrees advanced. Drove it around the block and had no difference in the way it ran. Now I'm back scratching my head.
 
Not wanting to stop working on it I figured I could replace the slow leaking transmission cooling lines. I Called up Advanced Adapters and ordered some 5' stainless lines 3/8". Time to toss the junk aluminum fittings. Drove over to Paso Robles (my old home town) and picked them up. I'm always please dealing with the folks at AA. Spent a few minutes under the 40 when I got home and now no longer have a continuous leak & ATF spot in the garage.

 
TwelveGravity said:
So after chasing around the ESC module and not getting anywhere, turns out that the error code 43 is related to the knock sensor. So I bought a new knock sensor and installed it.... No change, ran the same way and still had error code 43. I read that the connectors can dry and crack causing them to go bad so I replaced the connector.... Nothing changed. So thinking I could have a short in the harness somewhere, I ran a new wire from the computer to the sensor and still had the same issue. So this lead me to think it could be the computer. I purchased a new computer from Howell EFI and put it in. Without even starting the motor I read the computer, Error code 43. I called Howell and explained the issue I was having. They said it shouldn't have a code without even seeing the motor run just yet. I bought another computer from a local salvage yard (just because) and plugged it in, error code 43 right off the bat. How could you have the same exact code between 3 computers, new wiring and connector? I was stumped. So I went down to the local Oriley's Auto part store to get another knock sensor. When looking up the part for a 1995 5.7l TBI it prompted a knock sensor for an Automatic transmission or one for a Manual transmission. They didn't ask me this at Auto Zone on my initial purchase. So I bought the one for the Automatic, went home and spent two minutes to put it in, read the computer.... NO CODE. I looked up the previously purchased knock sensor and it turns out that it was one for a manual transmission. I'm not sure the difference between the two but all this time and money spent chasing around this problem and it turns out that it was just the wrong part? Well after all this I was able to get rid of the check engine code but still have issues with the way its running. After having the battery disconnected for some time I can hook it up and pull out of the driveway, drive around running great for the first minute or two and then it will cut out around 1,400 RPM's. It doesn't throw a code. I can turn it off, start it back up again and have the same issue but if i disconnect the battery and try again hours later it will run fine the first minute or two and then act up. Wondering if it would have anything to do with the timing, I adjusted the timing to true Zero. Unplugging the timing advance wire and adjusting the distributor with a timing light to Zero degrees (just before it stalls out). Tightened the distributor and connected the timing advance. At idle the timing was 22 degrees advanced. Drove it around and still had the same issue. I read a few threads where people recommended you set the timing at 8 degrees instead of zero. So I did this and at idle after reconnecting the timing advance it would be idling at 28 degrees advanced. Drove it around the block and had no difference in the way it ran. Now I'm back scratching my head.
Click to expand...
So is this a motor you pulled out of a suburban or something? Or did the previous owner do the motor/EFI swap? Has the motor been modified from the stock setup?
 
White Stripe said:
So is this a motor you pulled out of a suburban or something? Or did the previous owner do the motor/EFI swap? Has the motor been modified from the stock setup?
Click to expand...

I did not do the swap myself. The PO that I bought it from pulled the motor from his 1995 Chevy Pickup originally TBI. The motor has not been modified (besides headers). The only thing I have changed from what he had was I ditched the 4L60E and installed a TH350 (which I did specify to Howell EFI when I bought the new computer). The Landcruiser has run before and ran well. Went on a few trails and then the PO pulled the front end to C&R the knuckles and it sat for years from there. I appreciate the help.
 
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