My 1980 FJ40 Build

[TwelveGravity]

I guess the most recent thing I have done to the 40 was put the soft top on last weekend that I bought from a fellow mudder.
I also identified where the small but steady ATF leak is coming from. The gear shifter shaft seal. That will be fun to replace.


Next few things I would like to get into (besides fixing the leak). The front bumper & nose guard I got from Metal Tech. Winch plate for my WARN 9.5ti. I also want to start doing more on the interior. Center console, I saw one on the vendor forum here that I really liked. I also need a couple tool boxes to sit next to the rear bench seat on the fender wells.

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

You're really coming along! I wish I was making this kind of progress...
Out of curiosity - how is your V8 oriented in the engine bay "side-to-side?" (I.e. - is it centered, driver's side oriented, etc.) I'm about to drop mine back in. Common wisdom here says to orient it an inch+ to the driver's side for proper driveline angled but I'm running into clearance issues at about 3/8" to the driver's side, measured off the crank. I'm assuming the crank is centered...

Obviously our builds have almost nothing in common in terms of components - different manifolds, pulley setups, transmissions, etc. but I'm still curious...I am hoping to load the engine back in next week and get some more measurements.

 

[TwelveGravity]

You're really coming along! I wish I was making this kind of progress...
Out of curiosity - how is your V8 oriented in the engine bay "side-to-side?" (I.e. - is it centered, driver's side oriented, etc.) I'm about to drop mine back in. Common wisdom here says to orient it an inch+ to the driver's side for proper driveline angled but I'm running into clearance issues at about 3/8" to the driver's side, measured off the crank. I'm assuming the crank is centered...

Obviously our builds have almost nothing in common in terms of components - different manifolds, pulley setups, transmissions, etc. but I'm still curious...I am hoping to load the engine back in next week and get some more measurements.

Thank you!
I have heard the same. Also In the Advance Adapters catalog for V8 conversions in a 40 I believe it states .75" to 1.25" Driver. I could be mistaken. BUT, mine is actually 1.25" passenger. It looks as if the PO had it as far driver as he could get it by the marks on the exhaust header from the factory steering box.


Even after removing the old steering box for the Sag conversion you can see that I still have minimal clearance. I still would not be able to get it toward the driver side.


I guess it is still possible. I have seen exhaust headers that come out and over the steering column but they end up outside the frame rail. I could not go with this option since the rock sliders are in the way of that. I am hoping that the extended transfer case adapter that I got from Advanced Adapters that moves your T case back a few inches to assist with front driveline clearance issues will help enough to keep me from busting oil pans.

Best of luck to you Rick!!

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

Thanks for the photos! I guess the key question was - with the engine oriented as you had it (toward the passenger side) did you have any issues with driveline clearances or vibrations?

 

[TwelveGravity]

Thanks for the photos! I guess the key question was - with the engine oriented as you had it (toward the passenger side) did you have any issues with driveline clearances or vibrations?

None that I know of yet BUT, I still have not had it out on the trail or the road. I still have a few things to complete before i get to take it out and run it through the test. I will def check my front driveline clearances and note any issues.

 

[TwelveGravity]

I got started on the front bumper/stinger & nose guard this weekend. I will have to finish the rest once I build my work bench with a bench vise. I lack a tubing notcher so a bench vise and cut-off wheel will have to do.





I cleaned up the extra 1/2" plate that was welded in place for the steering box install.

 

[TwelveGravity]

I also got the rear seat put in.

 

[Solace in Solitude]

Really Looking great, Kevin!!

 

[TwelveGravity]

Really Looking great, Kevin!!

Thanks Danny!

 

[TwelveGravity]

I was able to get the nose guard on this afternoon.
It took some time to find a way to notch tubing without a tubing notcher but I got it. I lack a bench vise as well, so it made for a challenging task. Do the best with what you've got right. Chop saw, angle grinder, a few choice words and patience got it done.

 

[TwelveGravity]

 

[TwelveGravity]

I touched up the sliders with what paint I had left. Let the paint dry and took it out for a short spin the next day.







I am still having identifying and having to work bugs out before I will take it on a lengthy ride.
I think I will need a power steering cooler. It doesn't get hard to steer but the gear box is HOT to the touch after only an hour of light duty.
I also need to figure out why it is eating through starters, Or I should say the starter solenoid. Starter works if you take a screwdriver to it haha. There are a few other minor issues to keep plugging away at.

 

[ibinazbass]

Forgive my ignorance as I don't know the wiring of these "newer" 40's.. But does your's have a starter relay? My 350 conversion ate starter solenoids until I added a starter relay. The voltage drop and amperage draw through the ignition switch was causing my issue.

 

[ibinazbass]

Also, great looking rig!

 

[TwelveGravity]

Forgive my ignorance as I don't know the wiring of these "newer" 40's.. But does your's have a starter relay? My 350 conversion ate starter solenoids until I added a starter relay. The voltage drop and amperage draw through the ignition switch was causing my issue.

Thank you. I don't believe it has a starter relay but I cannot say 100%. I will definitely look into it.
Thanks again.

 

[TwelveGravity]

Looking into the starter relay. I picked up a 4 pin 30amp 12 volt relay at the local auto part store today and started looking up how I would wire it in. I found 1 video on it that helped somewhat but the guy cut into his stock wiring harness to set it up. So it leaves me curious how I go about wiring it up with what I have. Here is a picture. The top is how the starter and switch are currently set up and the bottom shows the 4 pin relay.



The relay states that pin#30 is power in but the power to starter currently positive from the battery terminal.
Advice is appreciated.

 

[Solace in Solitude]

Kevin,

There's good info in THIS LINK and also in the thread in post# 2.

 

[ibinazbass]

Pin 30 comes straight from a fused line on the battery and pin 87 goes to the small stud on your starter solenoid. Pin 85 goes to ground and you take the wire from between your push button and the solenoid, remove it from the solenoid, and hook it directly to the relay at pin 86. Feel free to pm me for additional help if needed!

 

[TwelveGravity]

Thanks guys! Those helped a lot.
So this is what I got.



It doesn't look very good but it will do the job. A couple of hours and a couple buck at the auto part store and we will see if it fixes the problem. Plugged it in and fired right up. Many times after that too.

 

[ibinazbass]

I'm glad that worked out for you! It doesn't have to be pretty, it just has to work lol