So after chasing around the ESC module and not getting anywhere, turns out that the error code 43 is related to the knock sensor. So I bought a new knock sensor and installed it.... No change, ran the same way and still had error code 43. I read that the connectors can dry and crack causing them to go bad so I replaced the connector.... Nothing changed. So thinking I could have a short in the harness somewhere, I ran a new wire from the computer to the sensor and still had the same issue. So this lead me to think it could be the computer. I purchased a new computer from Howell EFI and put it in. Without even starting the motor I read the computer, Error code 43. I called Howell and explained the issue I was having. They said it shouldn't have a code without even seeing the motor run just yet. I bought another computer from a local salvage yard (just because) and plugged it in, error code 43 right off the bat. How could you have the same exact code between 3 computers, new wiring and connector? I was stumped. So I went down to the local Oriley's Auto part store to get another knock sensor. When looking up the part for a 1995 5.7l TBI it prompted a knock sensor for an Automatic transmission or one for a Manual transmission. They didn't ask me this at Auto Zone on my initial purchase. So I bought the one for the Automatic, went home and spent two minutes to put it in, read the computer.... NO CODE. I looked up the previously purchased knock sensor and it turns out that it was one for a manual transmission. I'm not sure the difference between the two but all this time and money spent chasing around this problem and it turns out that it was just the wrong part? Well after all this I was able to get rid of the check engine code but still have issues with the way its running. After having the battery disconnected for some time I can hook it up and pull out of the driveway, drive around running great for the first minute or two and then it will cut out around 1,400 RPM's. It doesn't throw a code. I can turn it off, start it back up again and have the same issue but if i disconnect the battery and try again hours later it will run fine the first minute or two and then act up. Wondering if it would have anything to do with the timing, I adjusted the timing to true Zero. Unplugging the timing advance wire and adjusting the distributor with a timing light to Zero degrees (just before it stalls out). Tightened the distributor and connected the timing advance. At idle the timing was 22 degrees advanced. Drove it around and still had the same issue. I read a few threads where people recommended you set the timing at 8 degrees instead of zero. So I did this and at idle after reconnecting the timing advance it would be idling at 28 degrees advanced. Drove it around the block and had no difference in the way it ran. Now I'm back scratching my head.
