I also added an additional fuse block (off a relay) in the engine compartment for the EFI and other accessories that required an ignition on power.
My 1975 2F Holley Sniper Install….
- Thread starter knuckle47
- Start date
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Chungas Revenge
SILVER Star
Not to argue but they say not to do that. Power and ground direct to the battery.
I did run power and ground directly to the battery as instructed. The above was only for wires that required an ignition on to run and all goes through relays off directly off the battery.
Holley has great customer support and I went through all my wiring with them.
Ok. Reading your post you said “for the EFI” just making sure.
I believe that everyone should ask or clarify questions and answers. This forum is helpful to all as I have received some very good advice on here. Just to clarify for others, since I have mentioned using relays on many of my wiring, I have, and you should use the appropriate size inline fuses from battery going into the relay (based on relay size and accessory size) and the appropriate fuse from the relay to the accessory it is being used for.
Yes, I believe I have used the RL45 (its a 5 pin) everywhere (I just don't use or need the center pin). Always get them with the female wire adapter harness so only need to solder wires together with shrink tube or crimp with shrink. $15 +/- for both as a kit
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- Thread starter
- #49
So maybe this is a bit simpler than I thought. Decided to separate the header flange and it came apart easily..
My next issue is O2 placement. If I place it in the most practical convenient place it will be 12” from the 6 exhaust tubes at the collector. Basically 8 1/2” from the 3 bolt flange. Anywhere else, with the way this exhaust system was bent , it rides too close for the frame rails or trans parts. If I mount it in the collector it is about 3-4 “ from the 6 tubes but then I need to remove the headers and intake to have access to the area. Not sure what Holley says about placement 12 inches from the meeting point of the 6 exhaust pipes
And for the finale for today….what tool is used to make this “tubing gripper” on hard lines?
My next issue is O2 placement. If I place it in the most practical convenient place it will be 12” from the 6 exhaust tubes at the collector. Basically 8 1/2” from the 3 bolt flange. Anywhere else, with the way this exhaust system was bent , it rides too close for the frame rails or trans parts. If I mount it in the collector it is about 3-4 “ from the 6 tubes but then I need to remove the headers and intake to have access to the area. Not sure what Holley says about placement 12 inches from the meeting point of the 6 exhaust pipes
And for the finale for today….what tool is used to make this “tubing gripper” on hard lines?
MOTOV8R
SILVER Star
I haven’t used one, but something like this (this says copper or aluminum only though)
Tube Beading Tool for 5/16" and 8mm OD Thin-Wall Tubing | Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies
This tool lets you create a hose retention bead in 5/16 inch or 8mm OD aluminum or copper tubing. Just insert, tighten, and turn.
There’s also a more expensive type:
1911
chupacabra
You need a tubing flaring tool that does "bubble" flares. Mastercool makes a nice hydraulic one, but it's kind of spendy:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06WD86RL...93146d89f490222015aaa2265a3fcd&language=en_US
There may be cheaper ones out there; this is just the style I'm familiar with.
You may also want to look into one of these. No need to spend the money on a flaring tool if this will work. Also, if you have an AutoZone Parts Store near you, they have a tool loan program and may have what you need at no cost to you.
www.jegs.com
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I would call the Holley Tech department. They were very helpful to me and would let you know the best of the 2 places you are talking about. I installed mine about 10" from the flange on one side of my SBC and seams to read the O2 well. I also called and it was decided to place where I did since I had an elbow and before the elbow was too close to the exhaust manifold (not headers a ramshorn manifold).
- Thread starter
- #54
Thank you all for pointing these out @MOTOV8R @1911 and @texcwa . I have a flaring tool for several kinds of flared ends but nothing that makes that retention ring. I can probably just slide 4-5” of hose on the hardline and double clamp it. I just like doing the really right thing when I can.
@texcwa. I did call Holley ….twice. The first time was 30-35 minutes wait time and about 30 minutes before they close, 35-40 minutes wait. I have also emailed them. It may take a few days by email but I will call tomorrow early. On the other hand…. I could continue to remove the entire exhaust and weld the bung into the 2” space right behind the flange. That method follows all of their rules… in their forum, it seems like 15” is max as delays from the O2 to the ECU will affect performance…not that this is a screaming dragster…
@texcwa. I did call Holley ….twice. The first time was 30-35 minutes wait time and about 30 minutes before they close, 35-40 minutes wait. I have also emailed them. It may take a few days by email but I will call tomorrow early. On the other hand…. I could continue to remove the entire exhaust and weld the bung into the 2” space right behind the flange. That method follows all of their rules… in their forum, it seems like 15” is max as delays from the O2 to the ECU will affect performance…not that this is a screaming dragster…
MOTOV8R
SILVER Star
I actually got these, for 5/16”, they didn’t fit the 8mm lines. I found some on amazon that were 8mm and they kinda worked, one of them leaked and I ended up cutting it off and making use of the ferrule that was left behind as the bead for retaining the hose.You may also want to look into one of these. No need to spend the money on a flaring tool if this will work. Also, if you have an AutoZone Parts Store near you, they have a tool loan program and may have what you need at no cost to you.
Earl's AT165006: Ano-Tuff Hard-Line to AN Adapter Fitting -6AN Male to 3/8" Tube - JEGS
Get the Best Performance with Earl's Ano-Tuff Hard-Line to AN Adapter Fitting -6AN Male to 3/8" Tube AT165006 parts at JEGS. Shop Now at the Guaranteed Lowest Price!
MOTOV8R
SILVER Star
I did the double clamp thing once on a holley 2di install. It worked fine. I also read you can just put a small flare on the end and that can work (can make it harder to get the hose on though).
- Thread starter
- #57
Called Holley Tech at 9:00:44 this morning and was the first call in….beats yesterday with 40 minute wait times. Tech says 12” will work fine and not to stress over any potential read delays for unburnt oxygen. Also mentioned that I could potentially remove the entire exhaust and weld the bung port within 4 inches of the 6 into 1 collector… he replied, negligible difference. Too much work for no benefit
The job moves forward.
The job moves forward.
- Thread starter
- #58
Spent about 2 hours in the garage today and got this far….
I was able to cut 2.5” off that 12.5” distance that I spoke with Holley about by welding the O2 bung directly into the pipe. Yes, had to pull the whole exhaust system but it would have bugged me every time I drove th truck that I had compromised on O2 sensor placement. Now it is located about 10” from the collector. The hole was 5/8 to actually sit the weld in component into the actual hole.
@BrownWolf This is the welder I was mentioning…there are much bigger ones and 2 or so smaller ones. This one uses 220v buy has an adapter for 110v if you choose. For me, I can do 1/2” steel for the smoker fireboxes when I was actively making a few of them (too many friends and family
)
I was able to cut 2.5” off that 12.5” distance that I spoke with Holley about by welding the O2 bung directly into the pipe. Yes, had to pull the whole exhaust system but it would have bugged me every time I drove th truck that I had compromised on O2 sensor placement. Now it is located about 10” from the collector. The hole was 5/8 to actually sit the weld in component into the actual hole.
@BrownWolf This is the welder I was mentioning…there are much bigger ones and 2 or so smaller ones. This one uses 220v buy has an adapter for 110v if you choose. For me, I can do 1/2” steel for the smoker fireboxes when I was actively making a few of them (too many friends and family
)
- Thread starter
- #59
Rehanging the pipes is a challenge…strength is an issue. I cannot believe how less capable I am now versus only 2 years ago
- Thread starter
- #60
I can see the Sniper wiring diagrams almost in my sleep… I am only using the 7-pin connector. I would like to drive a tachometer and realize the only tach wire signal left is coming out of the 10-pin connector… is it acceptable to use only that dark brown wire for the tach on that 10-pin connection?
