MOTOV8R
SILVER Star
You can do it that way. I just ran a parallel wire to the Sniper and tach instead of running it through the sniper then to the tach. This way I could make a dummy plug and cap off the 10 pin connector.
My 1975 2F Holley Sniper Install…. (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter knuckle47
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- #62
Thanks @MOTOV8R was not sure if that was going to be acceptable. I know with my Chevy pickup almost any accessory you add to the electrical system, throws a computer fault somewhere. After reading thru the install manual Holley doesn’t show much beyond this and in several illustrations, is the brown wire only. 
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- #63
With the last 30 minutes of energy available for the rest of the day, I had to blow it all on the Land Cruiser. Got the exhaust back in and nicely secure. I was also checking out the alignment of the new O2 bung… it is near perfect. I probably could have pointed it up more towards the hood but it is well positioned, at the correct angle and has some free space around it.
A small step closer…. I am shaping the 3/8” hardline tubing for the fuel and vent lines that run along the frame rail on the right side and will finish the ends with 3/8” fuel hose.
Forgot to add: this is in a decent spot to facilitate a quick removal and replacement should or when it fails
A small step closer…. I am shaping the 3/8” hardline tubing for the fuel and vent lines that run along the frame rail on the right side and will finish the ends with 3/8” fuel hose.
Forgot to add: this is in a decent spot to facilitate a quick removal and replacement should or when it fails
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- #64
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- Thread starter
- #65
Can someone tell me if this is a stock fuel pump?
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- #66
Thanks for following along. Finally got the fuel lines plumbed but I am not satisfied with the overall look. I can attest that they are secure, don’t rub and should not leak but bending the steel line and trying to flare the ends has not been easy. Despite having the bender and needed pieces, the strength in my hands and arms just can’t support the effort. The supplied steel fuel line does not follow the path I have in the engine compartment so it too needed some adjustment. If I had the pink wire ready to connect…I’m sure the fuel lines would work but..I am replacing all of them Sunday.
I could not get any kind of flare on the 3/8 steel line to help keep the rubber fuel one in place and double clamps help marginally. and it was suggest to try a compression fitting which works but you need to split the nut to remove it. Brass is EASY
I keep seeing that in X many years when this thing goes up for sale, I had been a be a good steward of an FJ40. I had this unique opportunity having owned and modified my original ‘74 and that was now 50 years ago. I would love to think that it’s still running around somewhere because I did so much of it by the book and really took care of it. Someone can appreciate this one eventually as much as I have.
So, knowing this…would you settle for BLAH LOOKING FUEL LINES?
I could not get any kind of flare on the 3/8 steel line to help keep the rubber fuel one in place and double clamps help marginally. and it was suggest to try a compression fitting which works but you need to split the nut to remove it. Brass is EASY
I keep seeing that in X many years when this thing goes up for sale, I had been a be a good steward of an FJ40. I had this unique opportunity having owned and modified my original ‘74 and that was now 50 years ago. I would love to think that it’s still running around somewhere because I did so much of it by the book and really took care of it. Someone can appreciate this one eventually as much as I have.
So, knowing this…would you settle for BLAH LOOKING FUEL LINES?
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- #67
I am hopeful that Sunday I may be able to start this up…have any Sniper users gone beyond the basic setup after running the system for the first few hours. Other than a rebuilt engine, the engine is stock with 6 into 1 headers
That appears to be a stock Fuel Pump. Kyosan Denki was OEM
I usually have to tweak the IAC once it’s running, there are a ton of videos on this. On the ‘72, it was picky about fuel prime in the software setup. Make sure to have your battery charged, the Sniper is really picky about weak voltage.
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- #70
Thank you…. The only real thing I need to do is select a 12v switched source. It z has been suggested to use the original fuel cutoff solenoid power but this was probably removed when the Weber was installed . I am going to try the relay thing but looking for a source of key on power next. Don’t ask me what but any accessories I have had to install using a switched source, I run into problems. Even with the dash camera I had on my pickups.
Shoild still have the source of the ICS in the harness behind the dash or grab the tab at the back of the fuse block.Thank you…. The only real thing I need to do is select a 12v switched source. It z has been suggested to use the original fuel cutoff solenoid power but this was probably removed when the Weber was installed . I am going to try the relay thing but looking for a source of key on power next. Don’t ask me what but any accessories I have had to install using a switched source, I run into problems. Even with the dash camera I had on my pickups.
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- #74
That’s what I am hoping…. Battery is out currently so I will look first and then put the battery back. If I remember…it’s white?
firemanj92
SILVER Star
You need a Graham tube bead roller to flair the metal lines to allow the rubber hose and clamp to stay in place.
Tube Beading Tools — Graham Tool Company, Inc. | Tube beading tools for professionals | At-home dental aligners, retainers, tongue thrust - https://www.grahamtool.com/tube-beading-tools
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- #76
This is truly the answer ….Thanks for the recommendations ….These are nice looking tools that will do exactly what I need…at $80.00 to $110.00 per bead….which is a good reason for any reasonable substitute. Decided on using these 6AN to 3/8 compression fittings …they are MUCH cheaper
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- #78
So …. I learned way too much about flare fittings on this rainy and cold Sunday. In fact, here it is 12:23am already. Regular flares are 45 degrees but AN fittings are 37 degrees and use a different set of tools when forming them. I should have just left things alone but by opening this “Pandora’s Box” IT wil not be a constant thought in my head that it wasn’t fully correct. While I’m delayed again from completion, I will have a satisfaction of knowing it is done right
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- #79
Have to add this…. I could use a few opinions:
Throttle cable will be pulling the butterflies open…there is a very long sweep which I guess will reduce any binding friction… does anyone see a problem with this being so long? I have not trimmed any of it yet.
Throttle cable will be pulling the butterflies open…there is a very long sweep which I guess will reduce any binding friction… does anyone see a problem with this being so long? I have not trimmed any of it yet.
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You can cut the cable and sheath to the length you want, but it hurts nothing leaving as is. Good call on the fuel pressure gauge right before the Sniper! I believe that should be a required part on any Sniper install.
