My 1975 2F Holley Sniper Install….

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@John Smith Thank you John…. Sometimes I just look at something and have to question my thinking. I did try the other direction using the original throttle cable bu the entire length was under 6”… not enough of a variable for fine adjustments I think
 
knuckle47 said:
@John Smith Thank you John…. Sometimes I just look at something and have to question my thinking. I did try the other direction using the original throttle cable bu the entire length was under 6”… not enough of a variable for fine adjustments I think
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I'm running the reverse direction on my Sniper and it works fine with a short+trimmed lokar cable.

Mine is a 9/72 and I am running a bicycle brake cable inside the lokar housing.
 
@WildernessRimFab do you have the throttle side of the cable about 2” higher than where it exits the firewall? If so, do you find any drag on the accelerator pedal? And, how did you terminate the engine side of the cable?

Thanks in advance
 
@WildernessRimFab i have the same setup however the cable is the one from lokar. The ball end goes right thru the gas pedal and the S1034 will be mounted off of the intake manifold with a bracket I will need to make

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WildernessRimFab said:
Link to my Sniper thread. I have zero issues with the throttle cable. I did add a 2nd return spring.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/sniper-conversion-72-fj40-f155-engine.1304213/post-14814524

Hope that link works, I'm not very savvy on 'Mud

The pedal end is a stop on a bicycle brake cable. The sniper end is a Lokar S 1034.
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Couldn’t get the link to work. I added a second return spring as well, without it I had to pull the pedal up with my toe to get it to idle right.

Post in thread 'Sniper Conversion - 72 FJ40 - F155 Engine'
Sniper Conversion - 72 FJ40 - F155 Engine - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/sniper-conversion-72-fj40-f155-engine.1304213/post-14814524
 
knuckle47 said:
As of this afternoon, gotten this far. For some reason, the mounting flange on these headers is taller than the 2F manifold so I did need to trim the insulator to have it lie fully flat against the intake. Wiring is next and drilling in for the O2 sensor

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@charliemeyer007 …evap separator fixed and mounted…thanks for the photo
@wngrog once again, great install guide

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what manufacturer's paint and color did you use on the emission's cover?
 
The silver? It was Rustoleum silver metallic and 2 coats of clear on Amazon

Rust-Oleum 7271830-3PK Stops Rust Metallic Spray Paint, 11 oz, Silver Metallic, 3 Pack​

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Got screwed up today. My AN hose barbs were supposed to be delivered yesterday but got the email “ your delivery has been delayed..expected by 10pm tomorrow…” so, I did finish the 12V keyed switch supply with a 4 pin relay…should have just keep the steel fuel lines with the compression bead but… I wanted to do it once and permanently…oh well…should be running by Saturday


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By the way, I tested the relay circuit with my voltmeter…key on, 12V….key off 2mV if that. I should not test the circuit with the fuel pump in the tank until it is filled and plumbed..can it run dry for 5 seconds or so?
 
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I was hoping to get the truck started today but…. When finding a better location for the fuel filter with the built in return line, I was not please that the ground tab is not on a plane with any other angles where the part is installed. I went to bend the tab so it was at 90 degrees…it doesn’t bend. It broke off.

Tried to solder it back with the tiny exposed copper but…no dice. So here’s where it sits til tomorrow when I will pick up another filter. The 3/8 hard lines came out well and the 37 degree flares seem to fit nicely. Everything fitted with 6AN hose barb fittings




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So, I have never used any kind of filter like this in 6 decades of fooling around in the engine compartment… is there supposed to be this much movement in the single output port? It moved about 1/4” forward and back and looks like it could be falling out

Is there that much fuel pressure to keep it in place?
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@mrboatman that answers my question …. Something isn’t right. I have a new one on the way from Wix. If I add some gas to the tank and that fitting should leak, I don’t need that added work cleaning and replacing fuel lines dripping with gasoline… If that new filter F’s up, I will just use a full blown return line and a separate regular 10 micron fuel filter.

Got the throttle done and this has to have been the more frustrating part. I dropped the M5 nylock nut 5 times. The arthritis in my hands has affected a few of my favorite things to do. I’m sure this idea has been used before…I know I have. This nut goes to the Lokar throttle pull

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ON A SEPARATE NOTE: I have everything else plumbed, mounted, wired and attached. I would like to remove the pull choke from the FJ40 dash. I wrongfully assumed the outer ring on the dash screws into the assembly but that could be wrong. My manuals are at my work so can someone tell me how this can be removed?;
 
I totally understand the frustration of arthritis in the hands. Like you I have to find clever ways to hold the little parts and pieces. I found this in the FAQ section.

The choke cable has a 14 or 17 mm nut that is on the inside of the dash, where the cable passes through the dash, that holds that cable assembly into the dash.
The knob is not removable from the cable, on the pre 81 units.
 
Well that ought to be fun….!
 
Well, gave up on removing the choke. My hands won’t work that way between going in thru the radio and in the dash cluster….
Finally got a corvette filter with the return built in completed and installed nicely. All the fuel lines are secure and they don’t hit against anything or hang loose.


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Went over all the fuel clamps to be sure they’re tight…checked all my wiring. Re-read the manual and made comparisons to what I did…this Fuel injection thing is all new to me so it took me a bit…she seems all ready to fuel it up and turn the key…

Still need to replace the passenger seat but I can do that once I’m sure I don’t need to access any part of the in-tank fuel pump. My truck had a plastic replacement tank under the cover… the new steel replacement seems like it hold more fuel.

Radio has to go back in also and some double sided tape on the Sniper screen.
Imagine spending 3 weeks to get this finished, hosting a myriad of stupid issues, and asking questions every 4th step along the way…ready to start it tonight but I just closed to door and went to take a shower.

Stay tuned… I’ll have to post a YouTube thing of the startup should that actually happen..
 
knuckle47 said:
Imagine spending 3 weeks to get this finished, hosting a myriad of stupid issues, and asking questions every 4th step along the way
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I feel your pain, nothing about being our age is easy.
As my father in law said some years ago "I can still do a good day's work..............
It just takes me a couple of days"
 
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