My 1975 2F Holley Sniper Install….

[knuckle47]

Semi-finals:

Put about 1/4 tank of fuel, hit the key on and programmed the ECU. All went well and once the program was sent to the EFI unit the fuel pump kicked on. I started to watch the fuel pressure gauge to see when it might shut down and that magical 58.5 psi and I heard a pop…

I see the viscous damping fluid in the gauge leaking out the back with a puddle of about 2 tablespoons of thick clear fluid. Placed a few paper towels and rags to prevent what looks like and impending disaster. I was waiting for fuel to start squirting out but it didn’t. Slowly released the fuel pressure built up by loosening the gauge a 1/4 turn at time keeping the towels in place

From my guess, air pressure from the lines and the hydraulic action of the incoming fuel popped a seal in The gauge. Took about 3 minutes to gently release the pressure of the fuel…

Called Holley to tell them to send me a new F’ing gauge and the recording says. “we are at a corporate meeting for about an hour, please call back then…sorry for any inconvenience “ CLICK

Amazon…new gauge tomorrow. I didn’t have any of the smaller brass plugs for that size….slightly pissed

Close but no cigar

In these photos you can see the aeration in the fluid…fuel pressure released and the gasoline bubbles around the threaded brass base from loosening the gauge s-l-o-w-l-y

 

[texcwa]

Just a heads up on the throttle cable. Although your 2 barrel throttle body my differ than the 4 I had to install on my SBC, I found that the amount of travel for the original 4 barrel carb was much more than the travel on the Holly Sniper. At first I constantly stretched the cable creating a lot of play and this caused me to loose throttle response. I had to fabricate a stop under the gas peddle so to limit the amount of travel, see pic.

 

[texcwa]

Semi-finals:

Put about 1/4 tank of fuel, hit the key on and programmed the ECU. All went well and once the program was sent to the EFI unit the fuel pump kicked on. I started to watch the fuel pressure gauge to see when it might shut down and that magical 58.5 psi and I heard a pop…

I see the viscous damping fluid in the gauge leaking out the back with a puddle of about 2 tablespoons of thick clear fluid. Placed a few paper towels and rags to prevent what looks like and impending disaster. I was waiting for fuel to start squirting out but it didn’t. Slowly released the fuel pressure built up by loosening the gauge a 1/4 turn at time keeping the towels in place

From my guess, air pressure from the lines and the hydraulic action of the incoming fuel popped a seal in The gauge. Took about 3 minutes to gently release the pressure of the fuel…

Called Holley to tell them to send me a new F’ing gauge and the recording says. “we are at a corporate meeting for about an hour, please call back then…sorry for any inconvenience “ CLICK

Amazon…new gauge tomorrow. I didn’t have any of the smaller brass plugs for that size….slightly pissed

Close but no cigar

In these photos you can see the aeration in the fluid…fuel pressure released and the gasoline bubbles around the threaded brass base from loosening the gauge s-l-o-w-l-y

View attachment 3632619View attachment 3632620View attachment 3632621

Sorry to hear about your pressure gauge issue but it is a good idea to have the gauge installed so if you have any issues with the Sniper you can quickly check and rule out fuel pressure as the problem.

 

[knuckle47]

Ok. So I wait an hour…call Holley and there is a 20 minute wait time…

I decide to throw caution to the wind and try to see if the gauge is going to leak or was it just the gooey stuff to keep the needle steady…here is the video link

 

[knuckle47]

Now, I wait for the new gauge but also need to re-install air cleaner housing assembly, passenger seat and tidy up a few loose ends. Will take it out tomorrow to run and heat up to start the “learning” … I’ll keep you all posted. Thanks for your involvement !

 

[texcwa]

Ok. So I wait an hour…call Holley and there is a 20 minute wait time…

I decide to throw caution to the wind and try to see if the gauge is going to leak or was it just the gooey stuff to keep the needle steady…here is the video link

Got to love that quick cold start up of the fuel injection system. You will also see a great difference in throttle response.

 

[Green Bean]

Ok. So I wait an hour…call Holley and there is a 20 minute wait time…

I decide to throw caution to the wind and try to see if the gauge is going to leak or was it just the gooey stuff to keep the needle steady…here is the video link

Where were the celebratory screams of joy on the video?

 

[knuckle47]

Cold ain’t the word…. This engine has been idle for over a month…..in that case I would have to crank it 3 different times for 20-30 seconds each before it would cough…then eventually start

 

[knuckle47]

Where were the celebratory screams of joy on the video?

Internal !! I figured you’d rather hear the engine….

 

[Green Bean]

Internal !! I figured you’d rather hear the engine….

Well give yourself a well-deserved great big pat on the back for a job well done.

 

[knuckle47]

Just a heads up on the throttle cable. Although your 2 barrel throttle body my differ than the 4 I had to install on my SBC, I found that the amount of travel for the original 4 barrel carb was much more than the travel on the Holly Sniper. At first I constantly stretched the cable creating a lot of play and this caused me to loose throttle response. I had to fabricate a stop under the gas peddle so to limit the amount of travel, see pic.

View attachment 3632637

@wngrog had mentioned in one of his setup videos about WOT and a range number on the screen of 80….or so.

I have no clue what or where I am looking for this but, I ve only just started figuring this out…my throttle cable will pull about 3/4 “ from full open so it may still require a bit of adjustment

 

[knuckle47]

You know what’s interesting…when writing about this install it was @Jdc1 who said “ I’d slap that bad boy on there”

That’s when I decided…Ok, get started…it’s been here over 16 months…
My vision of kick starting my ‘47 motorcycle versus my 1995 Electra-Glide with the 1st year of stock fuel injection was remarkably memorable. The first start of the FJ40 was mint perfect and exactly my experience as the bike…press a button and BAM!

I am very pleased and happy with this right now

 

[knuckle47]

By the way: a big thank you to everyone who offered their comments, advice, suggestions and thoughts..

 

[knuckle47]

Ok…today’s saga got a very late start around 5:30pm. The new fuel pressure gauge so up this morning early..$15.00. The Earl’s gauge was $41. New gauge works perfectly. Still raining but the desire to get things setup were strong enough to go out of the garage and start the engine during a dry spot. Started up well but dialed in the monitor screen to see a few things. I noticed despite setting the idle to 700, it was running around 1400. Adjusted the screw on the throttle body that lets the butterfly close more and dropped the idle to 700. As it started to warm up, it went into learn mode.

Then an odd thing…idle speed was running between 1600 and 300…up and down, up and down about 8 times, stalled and would not restart. In the old days I would pump the throttle for the accelerator pump to squirt fuel. This did little …but, from behind the fully raised hood I stopped when the orange flash appeared.

Decided to re-program the ECU again…. Started and smoothed right out so I ran it for about 20 minutes around the driveway until I felt this had settled in. Started it up about 3 times again to gain some confidence and felt good so I parked it back in the garage before the rain started again. So far, the truck has a very smooth idle, snappy acceleration and starts so easily

 

[wngrog]

Get the screen that shows IAC.

You don’t adjust the butterfly until the truck reaches 165*

It’s not meant to adjust the idle it’s meant to adjust the IAC

1) make sure you don’t have any vacuum leaks Spray carb cleaner all around make sure you don’t get any blips

2) Set your timing. A lot of high idles are due to timing being whacked

3) adjust IAC according to manual. Its in a a big black outlined box in the manual

 

[knuckle47]

@wngrog thank you for that….and thanks for the directions… Tomorrow can be a better day since I’m staying home most of the day and i can devote more focused time on this. Learning a lot as I go and re-reading the manual again tonight and …watching your YouTube instructions to Drew about these screens and definitions.

Frankly just that it starts so INSTANTLY thrills me. I’ll be on top of this til its exact

 

[knuckle47]

The results of the day: brought the carb screw back to the position it was purchased in. Made sure all of the sensors checked out. The timing seems spot on the line with the mark.

When starting the engine the idle runs about 1600 and truck warms to 191 within 4-5 minutes. Following the guide on setting IAC keeps me at 8% but the idle is around 1200. Should I try to go below 750 rpm, the IAC drops to 0%.

Tried this at least 4 times with a 191-193 degree engine and the results are the same. So, I set the IAC at 0% where the idle was 710-720. Took the truck for a short ride about 1 mile. It runs wonderfully but based on all of the article and the Holley videos….8-12 seem to be where it needs to be. A tap on the throttle will eventually cause the IAC to stabilize at 0%

I am missing something…I should also mention I read a small paragraph somewhere about the PCV valve. The truck has a 1/2” coolant cap over the side cover where the PCV would be. Could this extra vacuum bleed make a difference?

 

[wngrog]

That looks great. I like 2-3 IAC.

As for PCV you need to run the PCV to the outlet in the middle of your intake manifold.

 

[knuckle47]

Again thanks @wngrog . The problem is, Itwill eventually drop to 0% again…. I’ll do the pcv tomorrow

 

[JKIII FJ40]

Hey Nolan, while on the same topic I have a 74 and I plumbed the PCV in to the phenobolic (spelling?) spacer under the sniper as my manifold does not have any other places to port it in. The one on the intake manifold towards cyclinder 5 is for the brake booster. I recently reinstalled my sniper after a failed first attempt. Should I find another place to plumb it in?

Knuckle47, I installed a fixed orafice PCV and it did make a difference from the floating one. I am highly suspect it was one of the reasons I had a failed first attempt of an install.