I agree with Lil'John, it looks like a lot of caster from your pictures.
I would load the suspension and recheck my caster numbers.
Mort's 76 FJ55
- Thread starter mtnmort
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I agree with Lil'John, it looks like a lot of caster from your pictures.
I would load the suspension and recheck my caster numbers.
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- #222
My castor is set at About 9*and my pinion is about 9* to 10*up. My castor angle was measured off of the flat part of the steering arm. Putting a line from the pinion flange to the transfer case it looks like it should be about 14* or 15*.
My question is should I just cut off the spring perches and rotate the pinion up. That should give me. Castor angle of about 4* or 5*.
My question is should I just cut off the spring perches and rotate the pinion up. That should give me. Castor angle of about 4* or 5*.
Is that with the pig on jack stands under the frame and front hanging like your picture?
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- #225
I cut the spring perches off the front axle and bought a different set. I was able to fix my axle issues with just moving the pinion up to where it beoongs. I got lucky on that one though I gave up paint the axle again after I weld it up.
I also removed the bottom two leaves on the rear axle to get it to sit a little lower.
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- #226
I had one issue installing the gauges my fuel gauge is pegged to full. I leave tomorrow for work so I'll start looking into it on the internet. I'm hoping that when I get back I'll get the drivelines and exhaust done. Finish the front axle and button up all the wiring. I'm feeling like I'm getting close to firing it up and seeing if the engine I bought was worth the price I paid.
Got that thing looking good. Are you planning on a rear e-brake?
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- #228
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- #230
That's way off. What gauges are you using?
They are Haneline 3 in 1 Gauges. They no longer offer those gauges, but there should be dip switches on the back of the gauges to be able to get them to read the proper outputs.
It appears Haneline has gone to more electronic gauges, but you might be able to call them at 844.EST.1952 and see if they have the old instruction manual for the gauges.
It appears Haneline has gone to more electronic gauges, but you might be able to call them at 844.EST.1952 and see if they have the old instruction manual for the gauges.
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- #232
It's been a while since I posted. I got. The cavity wax sprayed and now I'm putting th windows in. They've gone a Lot smoother than I expected with the help of this thread. How to install new window channel, 73 vent window doors
The rear windows are in, and I've put the fronts in and both don't roll down all the way. The glass stays 3" out of the door. I'm not sure why.
The rear windows are in, and I've put the fronts in and both don't roll down all the way. The glass stays 3" out of the door. I'm not sure why.
Are you sure the regulators are the correct ones? Odd that both fronts aren't going down. Did they go down fully before?
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- #234
I'm almost positive they went all the way down before. I wondered if I had them switched from side to side but I don't think they would fit the other way. Maybe I'll take them Both out and see if I switched sides. Other than that I'm not sure.
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- #235
Apparently if they are switched from side to side the won't roll down all the way. It was late last night while I was messing with it. I've tried looking, is there a way to fix the window having a hard time rolling up on the drivers side? I was wondering if I just needed to punch the rivets that hold it together a little more to make it tighter.
I'm not sure which rivets you're speaking of, but my driver's is tight too. I use DRY silicone spray in the track and glass edge to get it rolling up easy. Have to apply every few months.
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- #237
Wow! Finally got the engine running. I tried to post a video but the file was too big. I have a few issues I’m trying to work through. First is my turbo doesn’t seem to be making boost. The gauge I have says it’s below 1 psi. I’ve checked the parameters on the edge CTS and they seem to be what they are supposed to be.
Also I’m only showing 4.5 psi on the fuel pressure. I tried to find a fuel pressure gauge but all the ones I looked at didn’t have the correct fitting to replace the fuel pressure gauge I’m using.
My starter was grinding about half the time when I would start it. It was a remanufactured starter so I returned it and the new one doesn’t seem to do it.
I still have some things to wire like the cooling fan and the tach with a permanent wire. Also is there an easy way to check that my tach is reading correctly? It’s saying 1500 rpm at idle. Is that a normal idle?
I’m trying to get he rest of the running gear buttoned up and the brake lines run so that I can take it out for a spin around the airport. I also got my drivelines back and now need to modify the oil pan for front driveline clearance.
Also I’m only showing 4.5 psi on the fuel pressure. I tried to find a fuel pressure gauge but all the ones I looked at didn’t have the correct fitting to replace the fuel pressure gauge I’m using.
My starter was grinding about half the time when I would start it. It was a remanufactured starter so I returned it and the new one doesn’t seem to do it.
I still have some things to wire like the cooling fan and the tach with a permanent wire. Also is there an easy way to check that my tach is reading correctly? It’s saying 1500 rpm at idle. Is that a normal idle?
I’m trying to get he rest of the running gear buttoned up and the brake lines run so that I can take it out for a spin around the airport. I also got my drivelines back and now need to modify the oil pan for front driveline clearance.
A bit of teething yet, what is the tube coming out of the side of the oil pan - it looks clear?
