Mort's 76 FJ55

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The gauge I have says it’s below 1 psi. I’ve checked the parameters on the edge CTS and they seem to be what they are supposed to be.
Going to be hard to make much boost without load, hold off until you get it driving to worry about how much boost you can or cant make.
It’s saying 1500 rpm at idle. Is that a normal idle?
I believe right around 800 RPM is normal.
 
DO you plan to notch the oil pan? I want to say once you start flexing your front end that u-joint is going to make contact.
 
I need to. I just wanted to see if the motor ran before finishing up some of the other stuff like that. I just got the drivelines finished and wanted them to see how much of the pan I had to cut.

What size drain line are you running for your turbo?

The drain line is 3/4”

I need to get something to read the rpm other than my gauges. I’m getting my rpm off the front of my engine. I when wiring the gauges it asks whether it is a 4,6,8 cylinder. On the 4 cylinders it was reading 3000rpm at idle. Once it was wired as an 8 cylinder the rpms went down to 1500.
 
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This is where my rpm is read from.
 
The drain line is 3/4”
3/4" rubber with barbed fittings? If yes whats the ID of your fittings?

I believe Holset calls for a 19mm minimum drain size, most of the ¾” fittings I seen had a 5/8” or 16mm ID on the fitting itself. This caused my turbo to pump oil past the seals when I first switched from the BW turbo to the Holset.
 
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^^ good advise, I've had heartache over turbo drains and having oil pump out exhaust.
 
3/4" rubber with barbed fittings? If yes whats the ID of your fittings?

I believe Holset calls for a 19mm minimum drain size, most of the ¾” fittings I seen had a 5/8” or 16mm ID on the fitting itself. This caused my turbo to pump oil past the seals when I first switched from the BW turbo to the Holset.

I’ll pull it off tonight. I know the hose is 3/4” Id. It was the biggest I could find.
 
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The Mechanical Tach drive mounts on the timing case cover and connects with the Injection Pump Shaft for drive power.

Guess I’m confused then.

You are using a mechanical tach drive to drive an electric tach without an interface?
 
I guess that's my issue. I just assumed I would only need the tach converter. I have a Dakota digital tach interface that I bought, for something else. I'll wire that in and see if that works. Thanks.

Guess I’m confused then.

You are using a mechanical tach drive to drive an electric tach without an interface?
 
I just assumed I would only need the tach converter.

Your mechanical tach drive will have X number of revolutions per engine revolution, something needs to convert that to pulses, your pulse per revolutions needs to be converted to an even number if your tach only has 4,6,8 cylinder option.

You will need to know each value if you want accurate tach readout.


Clear as mud?
 
I had a thought about the turbo. While reading about the turbo feed line I read that people had had turbo failures due to not enough oil getting to the turbo. I read quite a few people say to drill out the restrictor to allow for more oil. The feed line is -4AN. I'm wondering if my issue is caused by more oil running through the turbo so the 3/4" line isn't enough to drain the turbo. I'm going to buy a new fitting and see if that helps with the problem.
 
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FYI, I used the DSL-2E Universal Flywheel Tachometer Interface and it screwed right into the back of Cummins trans plate.


Universal Flywheel Tachometer Interface

I bought the DSL-2E for the other engine to transmission adapter. Once i changed adapter plates I decided to just get the rpm off the front of the engine since it was already there. I contacted Dakota digital by email but they weren't very helpful. They said i could use the DSL-1E if I could figure out how and it wouldn't hurt anything. They said if I couldn't figure it out to use another source for tach signal.
 
They said if I couldn't figure it out to use another source for tach signal.

OK, if we can assume your pump is turning half engine RPM and your mechanical tach drive is 1:1 then we need to know how many pulses per revolution the little encoder you have screwed into it puts out. Based on the info you’ve posted I would assume your encoder is 4 pulses per revolution and you need 2 pulses per revolution. You could use your DSL-2E and just use a 4 count as 1 revolution then hook your tach as per their instructions.
Post a picture of the info off your encoder and maybe we can look it up.

I read quite a few people say to drill out the restrictor to allow for more oil

No restrictor when using the Holset turbo, just #4 oil line like you have.
 
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I just read your tach comments again and I should have used addition not subtraction.

I’m guessing your encoder is roughly 32 pulses per revolution, sorry for the added confusion.
 
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