Mort's 76 FJ55 (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter mtnmort
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
- Thread starter
- #262
I just got home and the adapter is a 16 pulse adapter.
GM/Mopar Speedometer Hall-Effect Sender, 16-Pulse per Revolution
GM/Mopar Speedometer Hall-Effect Sender, 16-Pulse per Revolution
How sure are you that your mechanical tach drive is 1:1 ?
In theory @ 16 pulses per revolution you should be able to set your tach on the 8 cylinder setting. (cam gear spins at ½ engine RPM)
In theory @ 16 pulses per revolution you should be able to set your tach on the 8 cylinder setting. (cam gear spins at ½ engine RPM)
- Thread starter
- #264
I've been looking for that info and I don't know. I don't think it is. If I wire up the tach for an 8 cylindar it's showing 1500 rpm. I think that's reading double what it should be.
Petter the guy from 4bt.com I bought the turbo from told me to put a new oil feet fitting with a restrictor on. I did and it seems to have slowed down or stopped the leaking. It's hard to tell but there's a lot less oil coming out of the exhaust. Some of it could be residual from before. I'm just nervous that now the turbo is t getting enough oil.
Petter the guy from 4bt.com I bought the turbo from told me to put a new oil feet fitting with a restrictor on. I did and it seems to have slowed down or stopped the leaking. It's hard to tell but there's a lot less oil coming out of the exhaust. Some of it could be residual from before. I'm just nervous that now the turbo is t getting enough oil.
The more thought I put into it the more I think it has to be 2:1, Glendinning is calling the part you bought a “mechanical tach drive option” if it was originally designed to drive a mechanical tach off the cam then it would need to spin double the speed. This could be made to work but you would need a 8,6 or 4 pulses per revolution encoder to interface directly with the tach you have.
Because you already own a DSL-1E Tachometer Interface unit I would call Dakota Digital and see if you can get the inductive gear-tooth sensor and be done, at the end of the day it’s a cleaner install with less to go wrong then what you have now.
Universal Flywheel Tachometer Interface
Lots of guys that know more about this than I do but from what I understand if you want good life from your turbo you’re going to want to keep it like Cummins/Holset designed it, no restrictors with a 19mm minimum drain size. To me it appears that they are using the flood oil as much for cartridge cooling as they are lubrication but that’s just a guess on my part.
Good luck, hope you get this on the road soon!
- Thread starter
- #266
Thanks. And thanks for the advice. I have the gear tooth sensor. I had it on my other adapter plate but I didn't like the adapter plate with the chevy transmission. I ended up buying a Duiser adapter plate and it is skinnier than the original and I didn't think I had the space to drill it for the sensor. That's why I decided to use the mechanical tach drive. Plus it was already there so I figured I'd just have to hook up the 16 pulse speed sensor.
From what I've read you are right about the restrictor. It makes me nervous with it on but that's what the guy I bought it from suggested.
From what I've read you are right about the restrictor. It makes me nervous with it on but that's what the guy I bought it from suggested.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #268
I know this isn't land cruiser related but now that I'm done with this hopefully I'll have time for my own project.
It still needs the stencils but the owner is going to have a guy that stencils all the old military vehicles and airplanes around here do it
It still needs the stencils but the owner is going to have a guy that stencils all the old military vehicles and airplanes around here do it
bobm
WTF, WTF, WTF!!!!
Like it 
- Thread starter
- #271
Those wc12s are really cool.
I'm in...'53 M37 and a '71 M35. Love the old Military stuff.
bobm
WTF, WTF, WTF!!!!
I want a Gamma goat or Weasel
or Weaselbobm
WTF, WTF, WTF!!!!
Amphibious is way to go. Hagglund
Did anyone say Wiesel?
That would be good for the coyotes and wild dogs around here.
- Thread starter
- #279
I may have fixed my tailgate handle. I got the plasma cutter and cut out the arms for the handle and grinded them down to the original shape. Then used a small piece of metal and welded them together. After that i ground out the handle to clearance for the metal piece connecting the arms. Once it fit into the other part of the handle I drilled it and counter sank the holes. I'll use 6-32 machine screws to connect the two and if it works I'll use panel bond and the screws. Then I'll sand blast it and cover the screws with putty and paint it. I'm hoping it'll work and be a long term fix until someone starts selling the handle.
Take any pictures of that procedure by chance? Sounds like it will work good.
