Mort's 76 FJ55

Joined
Mar 23, 2007
Messages
782
Location
Moab Utah
 
 
The pig is shipped.

I bought a 1976 fj55 out of Sacramento. It looks to be pretty rust free, but I'm pretty sure I'll be cutting into the rockers and maybe a few other things. The engine is bad and was said to have spun a beating. It's been sitting for 20years and that's apparent from the issues that have already come up.

My brother picked it up for me and it had a few flat tires, no buggie. They put air in them and had to change one. My brother said he and the sellers boyfriend were both standing on the star wrench on the lugnuts and still had a hard time getting them off.

When my brother got it back to his place one of the tires were flat. He was going to get a used tire before the shipper picked it up, but it was only two hours from when I told them to ship it and when they had a shipper lined up and it was 3:00 that same day that the shipper showed up to pick it up.

The engine doesn't run and there are no brakes. They said it was a lot of fun getting it up on the car hauler. My brother used a winch on his trailer to get it up onto the trailer and they used straps to lower it to the back of the trailer in two foot increments. One strap was tight while the other had two feet of slack. They would release the tight one and let it roll to the next strap. And all this in the rain.

My helicopter mechanic is going to take delivery of the cruiser while I'm out of town working and I'm sure he's going to be thrilled with the prospects of getting it off the trailer.

It'll get to Alabama in 7 to 10 days and I think I owe the driver a tip for dealing with this. Maybe they can just tie off the cruiser to an aircraft tug and drive the semi away or something. :).

I'm not really good at keeping up with these write ups but I'll try to keep it up. Some initial thoughts of what I want to do. I was thinking about putting fj60 axles under it with fj80 coil springs and control arms. I've been looking into this a lot and am hoping I can do it.

I'm sure I'll need a new master cylinder and maybe a brake booster. Ive seen the tundra upgrade and heard there is a Chevy upgrade, but don't know where I read that. Also what's the better upgrade?

Engine wise I'm leaning towards the 4bt but also still thinking about a 5.3 Chevy. I owned a 24 valve cummins and have heard the 4bt is louder. I'm a little worried about the noise. I know there are blankets that you can put on the 4bt to quiet it down and lots of sound deadening, I just wish I could hear one before I put that kind of money into it. I'd like to put a ranger torque splitter, it has a 27% overdrive, behind the 4bt or the 5.3 and keep the Toyota transmission and transfer case.

I'm going to strip out the interior and get the floors painted probably with the noxyde paint with the sound deadening additive. And I'm trying to decide if j should keep the bench seat. I really like having 6 seat belts. I wondered if I could modify the original bench and make it like the dodge 2500 I had with a center console that folded down but could fold up for a 6th seat.

That's it for now.
 

Lil'John

SILVER Star
Joined
Mar 24, 2006
Messages
5,945
Location
Nor Cal in the garage with a Cruiser
 
 
I would recommend going with a real OD transmission over a ranger... the ranger will introduce slop to the drivetrain similar to how doublers add slop to the drivetrain. FWIW, most adapters for Advanced are in the $600 range.

Was there a reason to go with a 4bt over a gas engine?
 
Joined
Mar 23, 2007
Messages
782
Location
Moab Utah
 
 
Slop in the drivetrain?
I like the fuel efficiency of the diesel and the driving range. I really liked the 6bt 24v in my dodge. I'm not set on the 4bt. That's why I haven't bought one yet. I have the money for the engine swap but keep going back and forth between it and the 5.3 chevy. A few years back I had a 327 in a 40 and liked the power. I even considered getting the original engine rebuilt, but plan on a lot of highway driving with this. I drive about 2000 miles out west a couple times a year to see family and do some camping with my dogs. I also pull a small M416 trailer with me when I go. I know I've asked you guys for advice about this and I appreciate the advice I've gotten. And any other advice would be appreciated. I'm just still trying to figure out what would be best for an overland type of cruiser.
 

Lil'John

SILVER Star
Joined
Mar 24, 2006
Messages
5,945
Location
Nor Cal in the garage with a Cruiser
 
 
Slop in drivetrain is redneck jargon for concept of gears not perfectly meshing between each other. If you grab the input gear of your transmission and turn it, you don't get instant turning out of the output. Maybe 5 degree difference.

The more gears you add into a drivetrain, the more "slop" you get. So it becomes possible to get 20 degrees or more of "slop". Add in spline wear and it can get even worse.

FWIW, I run an NV4500... first gear is basically useless on-road. But I chose it because I will be doing some technical wheeling that require lower first gear. If I were not doing "harder" trails, I would look more toward transmissions without a granny first such as the NV3500(not sure of Toyota adapters), H55(?? Toyota cruiser OD), R151(?? Toyota truck OD), etc.

On the 4bt, have you heard any reports of mileage from "brick" vehicles like the 55? Or maybe an MPG comparison of a 4bt vs 5.3L in same exact same built rig? I honestly have no clue so this is just a potential method to see if it is worth it.

FWIW, when I did my 6.0L, I compared full sized trucks with 4.3L(V6), 4.8L, 5.3L, and 6.0L engines and didn't really notice enough MPG difference for me to sway me down from the 6.0L... I think it was ~3mpg between 4.8L and 6.0L ;)
 
Joined
Mar 23, 2007
Messages
782
Location
Moab Utah
 
 
I haven't heard any comparisons from the exact same rig. My buddy and I are always arguing about that. He thinks the mpg of the diesels is a unicorn. People saying they get 35 mpg on the third Tuesday of the month but only if there's a full moon.

I know J Mack said he got something around 25 mpg. A lot of guys on 4btswaps.com are getting the same mileage with similar setups. A few with Tahoes and other big vehicles.

I think you said you're getting roughly 10mpg but could tune it for better and drive better. What is the average mpg for the 5.3 in a brick of a vehicle?

The slop thing makes sense. I wanted the ranger to keep with the toyota transmission, but the H55 only has a 16% overdrive vs the 27 in the nv4500 and the ranger.
 
Joined
Sep 17, 2013
Messages
3,466
Location
Boise Idaho
 
I am getting very good mileage with 35" tires and a small lift, so yes it's a brick, I spent some time with sound deadening and the 4BT in my pig noise wise is about the same as my 6BT in my 2007 Dodge and the 4BT the way it's built in my pig pulls as hard as the 6BT in my Dodge and will go as fast as you dare take it (95MPH+)
Like LilJohn said put a NV4500 in and forget about the Ranger over drive..

This looks like a good deal on a 4BT on 4BT swaps Cummins 4BT & Diesel Conversions Forums
I don't know the guy selling but if I where in the market I would check into it.
 

scrapdaddy

Standing on the corner
SILVER Star
Joined
Aug 21, 2011
Messages
9,673
Location
Dittmer, Mo.
 
Some of the guys in the 60 forum are saying in the upper teens with the 5.3/6.0 motors. With my 5.3, only gone 1.7 miles, so I'm getting pretty good! :)
 

Lil'John

SILVER Star
Joined
Mar 24, 2006
Messages
5,945
Location
Nor Cal in the garage with a Cruiser
 
 
Another thing to consider is decide how you are going to use it then work backwards on the mods :)

To throw another money waster into the mix, you might consider going split case(MUCH stronger than 1 piece) and then getting the Mark's gear set for it that has an OD to it also(17%??). I went split case on mine after having a one piece case... lost a bit of money on that. I'm considering the Mark's gear set currently but may push it to next year.
 
Joined
Mar 23, 2007
Messages
782
Location
Moab Utah
 
 
I was looking at the transfer case gears. If I go with the 4bt I will definitely do that in the future.

Where's a good source for nv4500s. The one I had in my fj40 would grind going into 5th. Is that a pretty common problem with them?

I will be working near that 4bt that JMack posted in a few days. I may call the guy about it.
 

Lil'John

SILVER Star
Joined
Mar 24, 2006
Messages
5,945
Location
Nor Cal in the garage with a Cruiser
 
 
For the transmission, I got mine rebuilt locally. But I was giving serious thoughts to a brand new one from:
New lower prices on steel beadlock wheels
Their price and warranty seemed reasonable. Granted, they were about 30 miles from me so that helped :)

On fifth gear, I didn't have an issue grinding. The one problem I had was the shift rail for OD was worn to the point where it would get stuck in OD:eek: Once the rail was replaced, no more issue.

The grinding issue could be related to the OD nut backing off but I usually here about that behind diesel engines and there is a fix used in newer version plus a replacement shaft to fix it.
 
Joined
Mar 23, 2007
Messages
782
Location
Moab Utah
 
 
I'm thinking about buying the 4bt from the guy in Indiana that J Mack posted above. The guy said the engine is set up to have the GM465 transmission bolted behind it. I see on Advance adapters website that they make a conversion kit, but its $1200. Is there another way to bolt an NV4500 behind that 4bt? Maybe a different adapter on the 4bt that bolts directly to the NV4500? It looks like the NV4500 bell housing is wider than the GM465. What is my cheapest option for this?
 
Joined
Sep 17, 2013
Messages
3,466
Location
Boise Idaho
 
This bellhousing should bolt up to the 4BT and the NV4500. I believe most of the 4BT adapters are for the petrol engines they replaced when they sold them as re-powers.
New Page 1
 
Last edited:
Joined
Mar 23, 2007
Messages
782
Location
Moab Utah
 
 
Thanks, I'd seen that but with all the other kits Advance adapters sells and others I was confused what would work.
 

Lil'John

SILVER Star
Joined
Mar 24, 2006
Messages
5,945
Location
Nor Cal in the garage with a Cruiser
 
 
For the front side, there are four variations:
  1. Early Chevy that had 'early' Chevy bolt pattern for bell housing. 6.5 to 1 first gear.
  2. Latter Chevy that had 'normal' bolt pattern. Input unique for Chevy.
  3. 'Early' light duty Dodge that had 'normal' bolt pattern for bell housing. Unique input for Dodge. 23 spline out.
  4. Hd Dodge that had 'normal' bolt pattern for bell housing. Unique large input and large input hole/retainer. 29 spine out.
Except for #4, the guts are VERY interchangeable... ex. mine is early Chevy case with 23 spine out and Chevy input.

Unless you buy from a reputable shop, you may not get what you expect. So double check what front side you need.
 
Joined
Mar 23, 2007
Messages
782
Location
Moab Utah
 
 
image.png
I bought the 4bt in Indiana. They changed our next work destination so I jumped in the truck and drove 4.5 hours to pick it up. It's had a decent amount of work done to it and even had the head rebuilt. The kid I bought it from worked for cummins.

It has the clutch and flywheel from a sm465 bolted to it, came with the starter and alternator, two different intakes, the turbo the dowel pin was done as well as a new cam and some other stuff. He has a fass fuel pump for sale that I was thinking about picking up but not sure yet if I will. It's the FASS platinum. Part number PD02095G.
 
Joined
Sep 17, 2013
Messages
3,466
Location
Boise Idaho
 
It looks to be a Holset H1C.
I was thinking it was something in that size range, you're going to want a smaller turbo and you're going to want one before you start your engine swap. If you build to that turbo now it's going to take more work you don't want to do later to change it out.
I can tell you this from experience..
 
Joined
Mar 23, 2007
Messages
782
Location
Moab Utah
 
 
I was thinking it was something in that size range, you're going to want a smaller turbo and you're going to want one before you start your engine swap. If you build to that turbo now it's going to take more work you don't want to do later to change it out.
I can tell you this from experience..

I know you've tried a few different turbos. Is there one you'd recommend?
 
Joined
Sep 17, 2013
Messages
3,466
Location
Boise Idaho
 
I know you've tried a few different turbos. Is there one you'd recommend?
The HX30W with the 6 cm turbine housing and 40mm inducer was stock on the P pump 4bt and is a good bolt on turbo. This would be the turbo to look for if you’re shopping for used.



I have a Super 30 with the 6 cm turbine housing and 46mm inducer on there now, it’s a good turbo for a good price if you need to buy new. About $750.00

“Super” 30 is the HX30W 2835278/13024082 originally spec’d for the Deutz 4.16 liter engine.
 
Top Bottom