Rear Doors are similar in procedure to the front doors, with the fixed window in place of the vent window. Starting with a door that only has the regulator and door latch hardware installed....
I did use the new fixed window gaskets, but trimmed and modified them a bit for improved fit.
This is how much material I removed from the upper forward part of the gasket to clear the upper L bracket on the removable window track.
Install the gasket on the fixed window, but do not install it on the truck yet.
Similar to the front door, start with the vertical window track towards the front of the vehicle.
Followed by lowering the moveable window into the door.
Now install the fixed rear window. Start in the middle of the door, push the lower edge of the window into the door, just enough to get the top of the gasket in, then raise it up and seat the upper gasket. Silicone spray might be needed to help slide the window and gasket rearward into place. Be careful, and make sure the lower track seats in the lower track.
You may want to use a nylon pry bar to help get the gasket lips to seat in the tracks. Gently push the window in the direction you want it to go while pushing with the nylon bar...go slow and work everything into place on the rear, lower and upper portions.
Next was the biggest modification I had to make. I discovered while test fitting, that the new fixed rear window gaskets were thicker than original, and moved the fixed window track closer to the front by about 1/4 inch. I was not able to get the glass to fit in the channels even without window felt. Some trimming was done on the gaskets, but with the window felt in place, it was too tight. I solved this with two methods, as the clearance issues were different for the right and left doors. Both involved cutting the sides off the rubber window felt, and both involved using a thinner base inside the channel.
From BD Company, I bought Vel/2" P/S Black Loop. a self adhesive strip. Cut to length, then trim to 1/2' wide. remove adhesive backing, and set in the base of the channel. (bottom of the U). Cut off the base of the U on the window channel, and use weather strip adhesive to glue it to the sides of the channel.
On the other window, the Black Loop was still too thick, so I used a vinyl window strip instead, but followed the same procedure as above.
This is the vinyl stuff, got at Home Depot. Self adhesive and trimmed to fit inside the channel. It is white, vs the black loop. Not ideal, but used what I could find.
The finished channel looks like this
If your channel is still too tight, you can repeat this on the forward part of the door. If you are re-using the original fixed window gaskets, you may not need to make this modification. test fit first!
Next install the removable window track, with the L bracket up and facing the fixed window. Lower it carefully from the outside of the door, catching the window in the track.
This step is also tricky, so take your time. The window track must seat on the fixed window gasket.
I started on the lower part, and using the nylon pry bar, worked the gasket into place.
I found that I needed to use this clamp to get the upper L bracket to line up. Again, the new gaskets are thicker than the originals, and I could not compress them enough by hand to line up the upper holes.
This window should be in both the front and rear tracks, install the upper window felt, and move the window up. Now install the lower bracket, start all three screws before tightening any of them
Once all three are started, lower the window halfway, and tighten all three bolts
Remove the pivot bolts
Slide the end of the arm onto the window slide and bolt the pivot back on, just like the front door and you are done.
