How to install new window channel, 73 vent window doors (1 Viewer)

[scorcher1967]

Step by step with pictures of how to install new window channel felt in the doors of a 73 FJ55 with vent windows.

Also, there will be product numbers and a vendor link.

Let's start with the products I used. (i used 4 different products)

The main channels were from BD Company in Denver. I used the WEA/75000636 and WEA/75000566.
B-D Company | Serving the automotive aftermarket industry since 1957.


I used the deeper 566 channel in the main doors, and the shorter 636 in the removable fixed window track(rear door) and vent window track(front door)
You could just use one or the other, they both fit and function the same, difference is really in appearance.

This is the 566 in the vent window track, note it extends 1/4 inch out of the channel

and the 636 in the vent channel, only extends 1/8 inch, and looks cleaner, in my opinion.


These products work well, but are not a perfect fit, and required some modification on each door. I will address these as we go.

 

[scorcher1967]

Starting with the front doors. Begin with all windows out, door latch hardware and window regulator in place.


First item installed is the rear window felt. It was about 38" long, and I cut a 45 degree bevel for the top corner. This is the 566

and installed it in the channel, starting at the top, making sure the felt was all the way to the top of the door.


Next install the main window, gently lower all the way into the bottom of the door and seat the rear part in the new channel.

Cut and install window felt in the vent window channel. I used the 636 here.
This was the first place I needed to modify the new felt. As the new stuff is slightly thicker than stock, the extra material around the vent window latch was causing a pinch/binding point. I cut a relief window around it.


Next step is to lower the vent window assembly into the door. This is easiest from the outside of the door. The tricky part is to lower it while capturing the window glass in the channel. Helps to have someone else to steady the window in the rear track, while you lower the vent window into place. Take your time, careful not to scratch paint.


Make sure the glass is seated in the two window channels, then attach the 3 screws on the vent widow to the door frame.


Slide the window up halfway and secure, or have someone hold for you.
Secure the lower bolt for the vent window track.


Measure and cut the upper window track, I used the 566 here as well. I measured this at 22 inches, and cut reliefs in for the angle at 19 3/4inches.


Fit upper track, then trim the junction to fit cleanly. Untrimmed shown here.


Remove the two bolts from the pivot arm.

Drop the arm down.

Slide the end of the arm into the slide on the lower edge of the window, and maneuver the window and regulator until the pivot bolt holes line up and reinstall the bolts.


Check the function of the window. I found that it was fairly snug, but moved. In my experience, it is ok to be a little tighter than you would like at first, it will loosen up as time goes by, but not start rattling. If it is simply too tight, as it was on the rear windows (coming up later), another modification can be made.

 

[scorcher1967]

Rear Doors are similar in procedure to the front doors, with the fixed window in place of the vent window. Starting with a door that only has the regulator and door latch hardware installed....

I did use the new fixed window gaskets, but trimmed and modified them a bit for improved fit.
This is how much material I removed from the upper forward part of the gasket to clear the upper L bracket on the removable window track.


Install the gasket on the fixed window, but do not install it on the truck yet.

Similar to the front door, start with the vertical window track towards the front of the vehicle.
Followed by lowering the moveable window into the door.

Now install the fixed rear window. Start in the middle of the door, push the lower edge of the window into the door, just enough to get the top of the gasket in, then raise it up and seat the upper gasket. Silicone spray might be needed to help slide the window and gasket rearward into place. Be careful, and make sure the lower track seats in the lower track.

You may want to use a nylon pry bar to help get the gasket lips to seat in the tracks. Gently push the window in the direction you want it to go while pushing with the nylon bar...go slow and work everything into place on the rear, lower and upper portions.


Next was the biggest modification I had to make. I discovered while test fitting, that the new fixed rear window gaskets were thicker than original, and moved the fixed window track closer to the front by about 1/4 inch. I was not able to get the glass to fit in the channels even without window felt. Some trimming was done on the gaskets, but with the window felt in place, it was too tight. I solved this with two methods, as the clearance issues were different for the right and left doors. Both involved cutting the sides off the rubber window felt, and both involved using a thinner base inside the channel.

From BD Company, I bought Vel/2" P/S Black Loop. a self adhesive strip. Cut to length, then trim to 1/2' wide. remove adhesive backing, and set in the base of the channel. (bottom of the U). Cut off the base of the U on the window channel, and use weather strip adhesive to glue it to the sides of the channel.
On the other window, the Black Loop was still too thick, so I used a vinyl window strip instead, but followed the same procedure as above.
This is the vinyl stuff, got at Home Depot. Self adhesive and trimmed to fit inside the channel. It is white, vs the black loop. Not ideal, but used what I could find.

The finished channel looks like this


If your channel is still too tight, you can repeat this on the forward part of the door. If you are re-using the original fixed window gaskets, you may not need to make this modification. test fit first!

Next install the removable window track, with the L bracket up and facing the fixed window. Lower it carefully from the outside of the door, catching the window in the track.



This step is also tricky, so take your time. The window track must seat on the fixed window gasket.
I started on the lower part, and using the nylon pry bar, worked the gasket into place.


I found that I needed to use this clamp to get the upper L bracket to line up. Again, the new gaskets are thicker than the originals, and I could not compress them enough by hand to line up the upper holes.



This window should be in both the front and rear tracks, install the upper window felt, and move the window up. Now install the lower bracket, start all three screws before tightening any of them



Once all three are started, lower the window halfway, and tighten all three bolts

Remove the pivot bolts


Slide the end of the arm onto the window slide and bolt the pivot back on, just like the front door and you are done.

 

[scorcher1967]

When I install the window felts at the top edge of the window opening, I will add that to this thread as well. Hope this helps.

 

[Walkerm916]

Awesome it oops like I know how to redo the window felt for my doors now.

 

[JD Films]

Great thread, thanks for posting! Helped me figure out some parts I need.

@scorcher1967 did you use the rear door fixed window rubber from SLO Cruisers? Interesting that it's not closer to the stock rubber thickness for $450 a pair...

 

[scorcher1967]

Great thread, thanks for posting! Helped me figure out some parts I need.

@scorcher1967 did you use the rear door fixed window rubber from SLO Cruisers? Interesting that it's not closer to the stock rubber thickness for $450 a pair...

Happy to be of service! Yes, those were the fixed window pieces I used. IIRC, they were not a flawless fit, and required some modification to fit.

Although, while not perfect, far better than the option of not having them at all.

 

[PabloCruise]

Rear Doors are similar in procedure to the front doors, with the fixed window in place of the vent window. Starting with a door that only has the regulator and door latch hardware installed....

I did use the new fixed window gaskets, but trimmed and modified them a bit for improved fit.
This is how much material I removed from the upper forward part of the gasket to clear the upper L bracket on the removable window track.


Install the gasket on the fixed window, but do not install it on the truck yet.

Similar to the front door, start with the vertical window track towards the front of the vehicle.
Followed by lowering the moveable window into the door.

Now install the fixed rear window. Start in the middle of the door, push the lower edge of the window into the door, just enough to get the top of the gasket in, then raise it up and seat the upper gasket. Silicone spray might be needed to help slide the window and gasket rearward into place. Be careful, and make sure the lower track seats in the lower track.

You may want to use a nylon pry bar to help get the gasket lips to seat in the tracks. Gently push the window in the direction you want it to go while pushing with the nylon bar...go slow and work everything into place on the rear, lower and upper portions.


Next was the biggest modification I had to make. I discovered while test fitting, that the new fixed rear window gaskets were thicker than original, and moved the fixed window track closer to the front by about 1/4 inch. I was not able to get the glass to fit in the channels even without window felt. Some trimming was done on the gaskets, but with the window felt in place, it was too tight. I solved this with two methods, as the clearance issues were different for the right and left doors. Both involved cutting the sides off the rubber window felt, and both involved using a thinner base inside the channel.

From BD Company, I bought Vel/2" P/S Black Loop. a self adhesive strip. Cut to length, then trim to 1/2' wide. remove adhesive backing, and set in the base of the channel. (bottom of the U). Cut off the base of the U on the window channel, and use weather strip adhesive to glue it to the sides of the channel.
On the other window, the Black Loop was still too thick, so I used a vinyl window strip instead, but followed the same procedure as above.
This is the vinyl stuff, got at Home Depot. Self adhesive and trimmed to fit inside the channel. It is white, vs the black loop. Not ideal, but used what I could find.

The finished channel looks like this


If your channel is still too tight, you can repeat this on the forward part of the door. If you are re-using the original fixed window gaskets, you may not need to make this modification. test fit first!

Next install the removable window track, with the L bracket up and facing the fixed window. Lower it carefully from the outside of the door, catching the window in the track.



This step is also tricky, so take your time. The window track must seat on the fixed window gasket.
I started on the lower part, and using the nylon pry bar, worked the gasket into place.


I found that I needed to use this clamp to get the upper L bracket to line up. Again, the new gaskets are thicker than the originals, and I could not compress them enough by hand to line up the upper holes.



This window should be in both the front and rear tracks, install the upper window felt, and move the window up. Now install the lower bracket, start all three screws before tightening any of them



Once all three are started, lower the window halfway, and tighten all three bolts

Remove the pivot bolts


Slide the end of the arm onto the window slide and bolt the pivot back on, just like the front door and you are done.

Not sure how I missed this, maybe b/c I do not have any bug catcher windows up front? This post is pure f'in genius! I got part way into my fixed window install and got extremely frustrated. Ultimately I ended up paying for this work. I found a highly recommended guy that does street rod glass. He felt the job could not be worse than Fords and Chevies and Dodges from the '30s, but I think he was feeling a little whupped by the end...

After reading this, I feel like I could do it myself, especially if I knew I had to take the Dremel to the SLO rubber. And I probably would not leave a few chips in my paint like the pro did, but I am not bitter (much).

Thanks Jason!