Builds Moonshine - A Build Thread (1 Viewer)

[GLTHFJ60]

They each have their merits. Buying a pair of cheap batteries is convenient because you won't need to disconnect your truck battery if you need to weld and those will be your welder's power source back at home. On the other hand cheap batteries don't last as long and that good price adds up when you have to buy cheap batteries a couple of times.

Buying a nice battery to complete your two battery set up in your truck is a direction you probably want to go anyways and most of the time that battery will be used for other accessory demands in the truck. However you will need to disconnect these batteries from your electrical system to use them as a 24V supply for your welder. I had thought of some elaborate way of connecting and disconnecting from the electrical system and ultimately decided it was just easier to disconnect my batteries if I ever need them for my welder (which thankfully has been rare on the trail).

Ultimately I like having both, a dual set of batteries in my truck that I can use with the weld if needed and a set of batteries at home that I use as my normal power supply for the welder.

The question for either set up is how are you going to charge these batteries?

I'm wrestling with the pros and cons for both.

If I had two batteries in my truck, I'd wire them in parallel and they'd be charged by the vehicle's charging system. I would disconnect the wiring from both batteries and use my RW2 wiring to connect them together for welding. This obviously runs the risk of draining both then I'd need to jump the truck. I don't think I'm going to be welding every week, so this would be an infrequent inconvenience and my welding is going to be at my house, where I can always jump the truck.

If I had two batteries in my garage, I'd wire them in parallel and charge with a trickle charger.


I'm leaning towards the two platinums mounted in the truck.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Thanks again for the advice Mike, I think I'm going to go pick up another Platinum-P2.


Falling asleep last night I remembered that I forgot to pick up some straps for my 14 bolt yoke. The 14 bolt bible says that they're hard to find, but the bible fortunately lists part numbers. Using RockAuto's AWESOME part number / cross-reference search, I found that the correct straps cross-reference to P/N 81001, which AutoZone sells. I ordered three "kits" which comprise of a single strap and two bolts:

EDIT: AutoZone's straps don't fit, but the bolts are the right thread and pitch. Trying O'Riley's next:
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/DOR3/81020.oap?ck=Search_3920486_-1_-1&keyword=3920486

Still gotta figure out the brake line, but I got new bearings and seals in the hubs last night, so I'm one step closer. It's looking good for this weekend

 

[StevoJonesFJ60]

What is the issue with the brake line again?

 

[GLTHFJ60]

What is the issue with the brake line again?

I've got to adapt my 3/16" brake line to the 14 bolt union. I'm thinking I can put a 3/8" fitting on my 3/16" line that I've in the truck, then use a soft line to go from the 3/8" fitting down to the axle ( female at frame to male at axle ). The only wild card is what the size is at the axle. Some info states that it's 3/8", but I can't find a definite answer.

That's why I am going to figure it out!

 

[boots4]

Since it's open anyways and you'll have to re-bleed the rear circuit can you pull that piece off the axle and take it down to a local brake fitting place to find an adapter? We've got this great hydraulic hose and fitting joint that's got everything and they've helped me find adapters to everything I've taken to them so far. I image there's places like that in every bigger city.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Since it's open anyways and you'll have to re-bleed the rear circuit can you pull that piece off the axle and take it down to a local brake fitting place to find an adapter? We've got this great hydraulic hose and fitting joint that's got everything and they've helped me find adapters to everything I've taken to them so far. I image there's places like that in every bigger city.

Yes sir, that's the plan. Haven't had time to pull it off to head to a parts store yet, so I hope to get that done tomorrow.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Got new bearings and seals put in the hubs, I rebuilt e-brake assemblies and some fluid in the differential, then wire-wheeled it and slapped on some paint yesterday. Will tear into the truck later today to start the swap.

For those that aren't very familiar with that axle, those 8 bolts that hold the axle shaft onto the hub each take 150 ft/lbs of torque with loc-tite. I don't think I'll ever have an issue with those shearing.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

As another note, I test fit the AutoZone u-joint straps and they didn't fit. The straps were too wide, but the bolts were the right thread, pitch and length. Trying O'Riley's next:

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/DOR3/81020.oap?ck=Search_3920486_-1_-1&keyword=3920486

EDIT:
The smaller of the two O'Rilleys straps in the above kit worked after widening the holes a bit and flattening out the joint a bit.

EDIT 2:
I don't have a lot of confidence in the modified O'Rilleys straps, so I picked up the proper straps from GM, P/N 3920486. They cost me $2.35 each (6/11/13).

 

[GLTHFJ60]

This weekend was crazy busy! Got the 14 bolt axle in. This thing is huge. It sticks out underneath the truck now!

Spacious workshop:

Axle comparison (there is no comparison):

This is the first time using my Ready Welder. I ran into some feed issues as the spool I got with the gun untangled on me at one point. No worries though, got it figured out and kept burning. HOLY CRAP, this little thing can put out some HEAT! And with only 24v input too! I guess having $450 invested in batteries helps.

As for the brakes, I got a new axle-to-frame line shown here. Napa part 381272. This line has a 7/16" fitting on the end, not a 3/8" fitting.. The Napa store I went to carries all kinds of hydraulic adapters and fittings, so I found a little sleeve that goes from 7/16 to 3/8". All I had to do was cut the M10x1.0 fitting off of my pre-existing 3/16" brake line, put a 3/8" fitting on with a double-flare and I was good to go. Piece of cake!!

Got the pinion angle set, measured twice, then burned in the perches. Threw some of my zinc heavy paint on there, bolted everything up and bled the brakes.

And finished!!

I need to get some new bleeder valves for the rear calipers, verify that I've got enough gear oil in the axle, then take her out for a spin. I've got a proportioning valve to go into the rear circuit if I need it.

 

[boots4]

That looks great. You'll definitely be able to handle all the torque that 4bt will put out with that beast. I've been toying with the idea of running compounds so having a 14B in mine gives me some piece of mind.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

That looks great. You'll definitely be able to handle all the torque that 4bt will put out with that beast. I've been toying with the idea of running compounds so having a 14B in mine gives me some piece of mind.

Thanks Mike!

I've been contemplating running compounds as well. It's not something I'll be doing in the immediate future, but in a year or two when I'm tired of the power output, I'll definitely be moving to compounds. I'm thinking HX30w over HX35 or HX40

EDIT:

Question for you Mike. Have you figured out how to hook up the e-brake to this axle yet? For now I've just got my e-brake cable looped up around the frame till I figure out what to do.

 

[davegonz]

That came out nice.

It's good to see others working in similar workshop conditions as me

 

[The Phoenician]

Johnny that axle and those tires really look great on moonshine. You motivate me to keep improving mine.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

That came out nice.

It's good to see others working in similar workshop conditions as me

Yeah man, it's tight in that garage. I've got 2.5 sets of tires in there, along with a large WVO setup and a bunch of parts. I've got to get rid of some of this crap

Johnny that axle and those tires really look great on moonshine. You motivate me to keep improving mine.

Thanks man! Reading builds on Mud, Pirate and 4BTSwaps is a huge part of how I find motivation to work on mine. I'm glad I can pay it forward

 

[Tapage]

good job pal .. awesome what you can do alone in just 2 days .. !

 

[ashack2004]

Man you are doing an awesome job on this rig man! Be awesome to see it in person one day!

 

[boots4]

Thanks Mike!

I've been contemplating running compounds as well. It's not something I'll be doing in the immediate future, but in a year or two when I'm tired of the power output, I'll definitely be moving to compounds. I'm thinking HX30w over HX35 or HX40

EDIT:

Question for you Mike. Have you figured out how to hook up the e-brake to this axle yet? For now I've just got my e-brake cable looped up around the frame till I figure out what to do.

I'm looking for a small turbo to be the secondary to that 351vgt I've got on the shelf. Holset options for me are HX25, HX27, HX30 or maybe an HE221. I'm wanting to see what other brand options there are so I'm reading a book to better understand turbo's and sizing them. So far it's mostly gasser stuff.

As for the ebrake, I didn't get any cabling with the 11.5 AAM I picked up however a quick search on autozone a couple months ago makes it look like the axle side cables are available at the parts store. It would just then be fabbing some connection point between those and the factory ebrake cable which I also have ziptied out of the way under the rig. That's probably the same thing you've concluded too but I don't have any more of the nitty-gritty worked out. I've still got that linelock so I haven't felt the need to get the ebrake worked out. Right now I'm trying to kill some belt squeal that's driving me nuts.

 

[robustbambi]

I am green with envy... that thing is gonna crawl over anything.

 

[maat]

hey man nice truck!

i noticed your tow ball is screwed into the cross member behind where the stock bumper usually sits.. Ive often wondered if it was designed for this and would be keen to find out how much it is safe to tow on it weight wise.

cheers!

 

[GLTHFJ60]

good job pal .. awesome what you can do alone in just 2 days .. !

Thanks man! It took less than 10 hours total.

Man you are doing an awesome job on this rig man! Be awesome to see it in person one day!

Jacksonville, FL? I could be convinced to make a road trip down there

I'm looking for a small turbo to be the secondary to that 351vgt I've got on the shelf. Holset options for me are HX25, HX27, HX30 or maybe an HE221. I'm wanting to see what other brand options there are so I'm reading a book to better understand turbo's and sizing them. So far it's mostly gasser stuff.

As for the ebrake, I didn't get any cabling with the 11.5 AAM I picked up however a quick search on autozone a couple months ago makes it look like the axle side cables are available at the parts store. It would just then be fabbing some connection point between those and the factory ebrake cable which I also have ziptied out of the way under the rig. That's probably the same thing you've concluded too but I don't have any more of the nitty-gritty worked out. I've still got that linelock so I haven't felt the need to get the ebrake worked out. Right now I'm trying to kill some belt squeal that's driving me nuts.

As for the turbos, the HX25, and likely HX27, use a T2 (IIRC) flange, so you'd have to machine an adapter to bolt to the exhaust manifold. Not a huge deal, but it's deterring me.

You're at the same point as me with the e-brake. I'm going to take a look under my buddy's Duramax, which has the AAM 11.5, to get an idea as to how his is hooked up. Maybe a couple of more parts from that truck would help. I'll post my findings up in this thread, as usual.

I am green with envy... that thing is gonna crawl over anything.

That's the idea! She'll be thoroughly tested this summer.

hey man nice truck!

i noticed your tow ball is screwed into the cross member behind where the stock bumper usually sits.. Ive often wondered if it was designed for this and would be keen to find out how much it is safe to tow on it weight wise.

cheers!

Thank you sir!

The crossmember was certainly designed to have a pintle hitch there. I have no idea what the weight rating is, but based on the fact that it's just fairly thin wall steel, I wouldn't put more than a couple hundred pounds of tongue weight and certainly no more than 2000# total trailer weight back there.