Builds Moonshine - A Build Thread (1 Viewer)

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I've got a question for you guys about shaving this axle. It has a drain plug at the bottom of the diff so a quick 1.25" shave is not going to work, since I'd be cutting right through the plug. I'm not sure if the Ballistic Fab shave kit will work, so I've got a letter out to them. I can grind off about 3/4" of the axle without getting into the drain plug, so I think I'm going to do that.

My question is, should I spend the money on the Ballistic fab shave kit, then the money on turning the ring gear down and then having the housing welded, or should I just run the diff un-shaved? The money on the shave kit could very easily be spent elsewhere and I'm thinking that'd be the smart thing to do. Then again, it'd be easier to do it now and get it over with. Advice?


In other news, tore into my new axle yesterday. The ring gear and carrier of these axles are insanely huge. Here's a picture of a 4.10 (41-10) geared gov-lock carrier.

IMG_20130518_200703.jpg


I found this unexpected difference between the two axles. The new style hubs are shorter and have a thicker wheel mounting flange:

IMG_20130518_202702.jpg


In this picture you can see the bearing supported pinion and carrier bearing adjusters. No need for shims on this bad boy, just tighten and loosen the adjusters as needed. SUPER slick.

IMG_20130518_205552.jpg


Finally, look at the 9.5" ring and pinion next to the 10.5" ring and pinion. The difference is obvious and shows why this axle is so much more heavy duty than the LC stuff.

IMG_20130518_214945.jpg


After this I threw the 3.73 open carrier and pinion into the newer axle. I haven't set it up yet because I'm not sure what to do about shaving. Any advice is appreciated!
 
Glad it worked out for you. What size tires are you running? Your defiantly into Rock Crawling a lot more than me so the shave may be worth it. I know personally I wouldn't bother. I still have a stock 60 axle but the 14b we installed on my buddie's 60 we did not shave. He didn't really have any issues and he even ran 33's for a few months before upping to 37's. With 37's you really splitting hairs by shaving it at that point. But if rock crawling is your life it may be worth it.

As for the Gov Bomb. It really got a bad rap from being installed in 10 bolt axles in high hp street cars. I wouldn't intentionally buy one to install it but It works great in lower speed low traction situations. That is really what they are meant for though. They engage when when there is 100rpms difference between wheels and disengage at 20mph. For limited slip they actually work pretty well. The design of the 14b g80 is much better than the smaller versions. Trying to crawl over things at extremely slow speeds its not going to do much good. If your on a soft trail or a soft slower climb it will keep you from getting stuck. If I had it laying around I would use it, especially if the other option was an open diff.
 
Glad it worked out for you. What size tires are you running? Your defiantly into Rock Crawling a lot more than me so the shave may be worth it. I know personally I wouldn't bother. I still have a stock 60 axle but the 14b we installed on my buddie's 60 we did not shave. He didn't really have any issues and he even ran 33's for a few months before upping to 37's. With 37's you really splitting hairs by shaving it at that point. But if rock crawling is your life it may be worth it.

Yeah, thanks for setting me straight man! Hell of a good idea.

I'm running 37s on the street and plan on picking up a set of 39.5s or 40s for the trail after I get the D60 up front. I do love rock crawling, but this truck sees most of its life on the street as a DD, and I don't think that is ever going to change.

As for the Gov Bomb. It really got a bad rap from being installed in 10 bolt axles in high hp street cars. I wouldn't intentionally buy one to install it but It works great in lower speed low traction situations. That is really what they are meant for though. They engage when when there is 100rpms difference between wheels and disengage at 20mph. For limited slip they actually work pretty well. The design of the 14b g80 is much better than the smaller versions. Trying to crawl over things at extremely slow speeds its not going to do much good. If your on a soft trail or a soft slower climb it will keep you from getting stuck. If I had it laying around I would use it, especially if the other option was an open diff.

Low speed rock crawling is going to be what this truck does off-road. Although it would be better than an open diff, I would rather sell it with the 4.10 gears it's got and use the $ for a selectable locker.

Thanks again for your advice Kurtis!
 
Being that you are going to be in the rocks I would say shave it, but all the money for the ballistic kit is a bit much, I like the way the 13 bolt shave cover from crane worked out for me.
But then I didn't have a drain plug on the bottom of mine.

Just remember now is the time to do the things you want to it while it is out of the truck.
 
I wouldn't worry too much about losing a drain plug if/when you shave the 14b. Use one of the cover bolts for a drain plug. It will take a while to drain, but that way you never need to worry about destroying a plug. The plug for my hybrid rear was shaved by one of the PO's and if it wasn't done already, I would have done it myself. :meh:
 
Dont worry about the drain plug. just pop the cover off a little and it will drain. A lot of the large full floats dont have drain plugs.
 
Being that you are going to be in the rocks I would say shave it, but all the money for the ballistic kit is a bit much, I like the way the 13 bolt shave cover from crane worked out for me.
But then I didn't have a drain plug on the bottom of mine.

Just remember now is the time to do the things you want to it while it is out of the truck.

That's the thing, I was going to do the 13 bolt cover shave mod ( like this one ) but there is a drain plug in the bottom of the diff, so if I cut that section of the casting out, it'll be open, necessitating a weld there. I am not set up to weld cast steel.

I know that it's out of the truck, but it's a $500 investment I think I can live without. That's all I'm saying.

I don't care about the drain plug, but I want to avoid welding on the housing. The 13 bolt shave kit won't work on my AAM 10.5 without welding.

I wouldn't worry too much about losing a drain plug if/when you shave the 14b. Use one of the cover bolts for a drain plug. It will take a while to drain, but that way you never need to worry about destroying a plug. The plug for my hybrid rear was shaved by one of the PO's and if it wasn't done already, I would have done it myself. :meh:

See above.

Dont worry about the drain plug. just pop the cover off a little and it will drain. A lot of the large full floats dont have drain plugs.

See above.
 
In other news, I went to replace my master cylinder yesterday. I took out the Sky adapters from 1/2 and 9/16 to M10 and put them in the new MC. While tightening the 9/6 adapter, the damn thing broke off :mad: Couldn't get the threads out of the new MC and any M10 fitting I threaded in just stripped :mad: Ordered another MC and another set of sky's adapters, so Moonshine is down for the week :mad:

I then went to put on the new 1.75 to 1.5" radiator hose I found but it's too short :mad:

I then went to take off the fuel fill neck so I could cut out the damn leaded fuel restrictor, but the truck is parked on an incline, so even with a couple of gallons in the tank, I can't remove the fill neck. I can't move it either because of the effed brakes :mad:


Luckily, earlier in the day I had gone over to my buddy's house to shoot the s*** and he let me borrow his plasma cutter. Even on 110v, running on Co2, that thing kicks ass!! I was able to torch off a bunch of brackets from my 14 bolt. I need to get my bottle refilled, then I'll continue.

The price we pay for doing maintenance on older vehicles :rolleyes:
 
While tightening the 9/6 adapter, the damn thing broke off :mad:

same thing happen to me pal .. :D sorry I don't want to make fun of your down time .. just couldn't resist .. coz I remember that exact moment .. when I broke mines ..

The price we pay for doing maintenance on older vehicles :rolleyes:

mmmmm maintenance .. that's filters and oil .. we do mods .. and some little maintenance .. :lol:
 
same thing happen to me pal .. :D sorry I don't want to make fun of your down time .. just couldn't resist .. coz I remember that exact moment .. when I broke mines ..

At least I'm not the only one who broke that damn adapter! I won't tighten it as much this time, maybe only finger tight :D

mmmmm maintenance .. that's filters and oil .. we do mods .. and some little maintenance .. :lol:

Also very true :p
 
Got the new MC in along with the new metric adapters. Also swapped out the oil pan for a clearanced one that my buddy Martin made for his 4BT 40. With his new chevy adapter, the motor gets tilted 14* to the passenger side, so he needed to go back to a stock pan.

Got Moonshine all buttoned up and went for a test drive last night. MAN, what a difference this new MC makes. Thanks for the P/N Tapage!!

Yesterday and today I ordered a 32 spline output kit, a 4:1 LowMax kit and a rebuild kit for the D300. Still need to order the cable shifter kit, but everything else is on the way.

New perches, u-bolts and a pinion guard are en-route for the 14b as well.

Here's a shot of the modified oil pan and pickup:

IMG_20130522_211926.jpg
 
New perches, u-bolts and a pinion guard are en-route for the 14b as well.

dude .. hide those expenses from your GF o she will never marry you .. ;) ( unless that's your secret plan ! )
 
dude .. hide those expenses from your GF o she will never marry you .. ;) ( unless that's your secret plan ! )

:lol: Laura is going to be around for a long time :D

Believe it or not, this round of purchases was 100% financed by the sale of a bunch of cruiser parts left over from my 4BT swap, as well as stuff that I'll no longer need due to the decision to move to 1 ton axles.

I'm pumped :bounce:
 
Made a magnetic mount for my Go Pro today. This way you can really see what the color of the exhaust:

 
Sweet JC!

I can't wait to see Moonshine on the trails with me hitting Daniel. Hurry up and let's do it!

Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD
 
How were you able to get Moonshine to drive on a ceiling? and where did you find one that large? :hillbilly:

Skill and endurance is how :smokin:

Seriously though, I set youtube to flip it, it Jt takes a while.

Sweet JC!

I can't wait to see Moonshine on the trails with me hitting Daniel. Hurry up and let's do it!

Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD

Yes sir, very soon :D
 
Well Moonshine is down again. Last Thursday the center pin in my 1310 CV let go, in the hybrid 1310-Toyota driveshaft I've got. I drove it home to avoid a tow and in doing so, I completely thrashed the welded-on portion of the joint so it's no longer rebuildable. I could spend the $200 or whatever it is to have a new one welded in, or I could get off my ass and install this 14 bolt axle that's taking up space in my garage.

This weekend I finished tearing down the 14 bolt and rebuilt the e-brake assemblies. The springs and tensioner are in real good shape, so I replaced the shoes and backing plates, which were rusty and nasty. Last night I also set up the gears in my diff, which was super easy. I used the guide from the 14 bolt bible and everything checked out. Even the pattern was good on the first check, so hopefully I interpreted the directions correctly.

I've got my 14 bolt pinion guard, leaf spring perches and u-bolts from RuffStuff, so this week I'll replace the bearings and seals in the hubs, then wire wheel the whole thing, give it a shot of paint and throw it up under the truck so I can burn it in. Only thing I've got to worry about is adapting the brake fitting to my M10 line.

Any tips on adapting the one-ton brake line size to my M10 fitting? Should I swap out the M10 fitting for a 3/8 fitting then adapt? IIRC everything is 3/16" line.
 

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