I'll call him tonight.
Builds Moonshine - A Build Thread (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter GLTHFJ60
- Start date
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- Website
- www.cascadecruisers.com
yep, 2012. No freaking way its happening this year.
- Thread starter
- #643
Assembled the hose this weekend at Chris' house after starting the deconstruction of his new 40. On the 40, we were able to get the fenders and bib off, then drained the motor's fluids and took the accessories off. All in all a productive day!
Hose assembly is easy with a vice. Thread the barrels onto the hose, then thread the nipples onto the barrels. Couldn't be easier.
Final product. I got two hoses for the price of one!
Hose assembly is easy with a vice. Thread the barrels onto the hose, then thread the nipples onto the barrels. Couldn't be easier.
Final product. I got two hoses for the price of one!
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Bingo!
- Thread starter
- #645
I used your tip to cut the line with a cut off wheel. Tried at first with a razor and realized that the banding was going to make that impossible. Worked like a charm as long as you make sure the cut is square. Thanks man!
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glad it worked!
- Thread starter
- #647
s*** balls. Apparently I ordered the wrong adapter for my PS pump. Ordered a 18mm to #6JIC adapter and should have ordered a 16mm to #6JIC adapter. Stupid part only costs $7 from PSC but shipping will definitely be more than that. Gotta see if there is a place locally that will sell that part.
Wrong part
What I think is the right part
s***
Wrong part
What I think is the right part
s***
- Joined
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If I remember correctly I did the same EXACT thing and I also remembering thinking the shipping was ridiculous for the part.
- Thread starter
- #649
Alright, operation Frame Swap is a go. First step is collecting new parts such as body mounts and hardware. Sourcing the bushings and spacers from 4Crawler. Going to get a price on hardware from McMaster-Carr and if they have a decent price, I'll go that route.
4Crawler Body Mount Bushings
McMaster-Carr (see pic)
4Crawler Body Mount Bushings
McMaster-Carr (see pic)
Nice I got the urethane mounts for my swap from 4Crawler. Going with a little body lift? I just used some 7/16 (I think..) grade 8 bolts for my mounts.
- Thread starter
- #651
I was thinking about it but I don't want the extra height.
I would like to keep all bolts on the truck metric which is why I figured I'd go to McMaster.
Dont forget about MSC. Sometimes they are alot cheaper than MC
- Thread starter
- #653
MSC? As in mscdirect.com? I've never used them before.
- Thread starter
- #654
Paid for the new frame. Looks to be really solid and looking at options to strengthen it / coat it to ensure that it will stay solid for the next 20 years. I have found some coatings that I want to use but they're wicked expensive. I've read that Eastwood makes great products, and this is the first coating I've seen that was designed for inside the frame rails. Gotta save up the $ to drop on these products:
Rust Encapsulator Paint - Stop Rust and Corrosion
Chassis Black Paint - OEM Frame Coating
Internal Frame Coating w/Spray Nozzle
As for removing the majority of rust prior to coating, what do people recommend that does not include sandblasting or hot dipping? I'm thinking pressure washer with a narrow nozzle. Overall process would be to wire wheel off the majority of the loose rust, sanding the paint that's left in prep for top coat, then pressure washing, rust encapsulator for the exposed metal and finally top coat. Does that sound logical?
As for assembly, I want to replace some engine gaskets, reseal the tranny and rebuild the transfer case while the motor is sitting in the bare frame. The exhaust will have to be redone ( again ) and all body mounts will have to be replaced. In addition, the shocks will be redone to incorporate the Ford shock towers and rear to incorporate tabs on top of the axle. Rear shock crossmember will have to change for the top mounted shocks on the rear axle, not sure how yet. I want to do this right and that means that this project will take longer than I want it to. Looking like all of the work will be done in stages, primarily three. Money will be my major limiting factor. I do not need to get into my axles as both have been rebuilt recently. Only thing that will change there is that I'll check the preload on the bearings.
I want / need this to be done before I move to NC in June. Not sure what's going to have to happen to make that work but it'll get done. Right now I'm focused on getting the money to drive down and box in the rear frame, then get it back up to Rochester.
From front:
Rear half:
C channels to be removed:
Rust Encapsulator Paint - Stop Rust and Corrosion
Chassis Black Paint - OEM Frame Coating
Internal Frame Coating w/Spray Nozzle
As for removing the majority of rust prior to coating, what do people recommend that does not include sandblasting or hot dipping? I'm thinking pressure washer with a narrow nozzle. Overall process would be to wire wheel off the majority of the loose rust, sanding the paint that's left in prep for top coat, then pressure washing, rust encapsulator for the exposed metal and finally top coat. Does that sound logical?
As for assembly, I want to replace some engine gaskets, reseal the tranny and rebuild the transfer case while the motor is sitting in the bare frame. The exhaust will have to be redone ( again ) and all body mounts will have to be replaced. In addition, the shocks will be redone to incorporate the Ford shock towers and rear to incorporate tabs on top of the axle. Rear shock crossmember will have to change for the top mounted shocks on the rear axle, not sure how yet. I want to do this right and that means that this project will take longer than I want it to. Looking like all of the work will be done in stages, primarily three. Money will be my major limiting factor. I do not need to get into my axles as both have been rebuilt recently. Only thing that will change there is that I'll check the preload on the bearings.
- Frame modifications and coating ( box in rear, shocks ) $300-$400ish
- Engine work ( valve, side, oilpan and intake gaskets ) $120ish
- Frame Swap ( TC rebuild and tranny reseal, exhaust ) $700ish
I want / need this to be done before I move to NC in June. Not sure what's going to have to happen to make that work but it'll get done. Right now I'm focused on getting the money to drive down and box in the rear frame, then get it back up to Rochester.
From front:
Rear half:
C channels to be removed:
It seems like you will get really busy with that swap!
but pretty cool !!!, where did you get that frame ?
Also if you want to save some bux to take some rust out:
- 4" disc grinder/ other small grinding tools.
- Wood pad addapter for sanding discs (buy replacements disc ranging from 60-120 grit) (this is my favorite as it sands it at a low hand preassure)
- Wheel wire brushes (different sizes)
- Respirators
- Muriatic Acid
- Vinegar
- Tons of elbow grease !
I did one like that in my car garage and came up really nice !
Galvanizing a frame are for those who can mock up a vehicle and the taking it all apart to be coated, otherwise a waste of money IMO!
but pretty cool !!!, where did you get that frame ?
Also if you want to save some bux to take some rust out:
- 4" disc grinder/ other small grinding tools.
- Wood pad addapter for sanding discs (buy replacements disc ranging from 60-120 grit) (this is my favorite as it sands it at a low hand preassure)
- Wheel wire brushes (different sizes)
- Respirators
- Muriatic Acid
- Vinegar
- Tons of elbow grease !
I did one like that in my car garage and came up really nice !
Galvanizing a frame are for those who can mock up a vehicle and the taking it all apart to be coated, otherwise a waste of money IMO!
- Joined
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- 4,044
- Location
- Hillsboro, OR
- Website
- www.cascadecruisers.com
Nice... looks like a good start.
- Thread starter
- #657
Santi has it. He cut me a great deal and OB offered to let me weld at his garage. If I can orchestrate the two then I will pick up the frame and box in the rear, then bring it up to Rochester where I can prep it before putting it under the truck. I thought the pressure washer would be effective and quick but if I shouldn't go that route, then I'll do it with the grinder and a sander. I'd prefer to not have to though.
Are the acid and vinegar necessary to get a good end result?
Thanks man, I hope so!
Preassure Washer will just take the flaky metal and all the grim on the frame !
The acid will help you clean the inner part of the frame, but you will have to rinse off with water. Vinegar will neutralize the acid, just in case it gets deposited in a tight corner.
As for a good primer coating having the metal bare, use PPG epoxy primer (you'll need a pint) I think they run for around $50.
It will take some time to cure, but you can really beat that primer.
The acid will help you clean the inner part of the frame, but you will have to rinse off with water. Vinegar will neutralize the acid, just in case it gets deposited in a tight corner.
As for a good primer coating having the metal bare, use PPG epoxy primer (you'll need a pint) I think they run for around $50.
It will take some time to cure, but you can really beat that primer.
Based on everything I have read on your thread you have the know how to get it done. Once you jump off and tear down Moonshine, your committed. JUMP!
I want / need this to be done before I move to NC in June. Not sure what's going to have to happen to make that work but it'll get done. Right now I'm focused on getting the money to drive down and box in the rear frame, then get it back up to Rochester.
From front:
Rear half:
C channels to be removed:
[/QUOTE]
I want / need this to be done before I move to NC in June. Not sure what's going to have to happen to make that work but it'll get done. Right now I'm focused on getting the money to drive down and box in the rear frame, then get it back up to Rochester.
From front:
Rear half:
C channels to be removed:
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
Ambitious project on that time frame!
Looks like a decent start.
You sure you don't want to buy a rust free California FJ60 and just swap in your good parts?
Just for instance, I am driving a 22 year old FJ62, that still has the factory black paint on all of the frame. And this truck lived outside since 1989.
Looks like a decent start.
You sure you don't want to buy a rust free California FJ60 and just swap in your good parts?
Just for instance, I am driving a 22 year old FJ62, that still has the factory black paint on all of the frame. And this truck lived outside since 1989.
