Builds Moonshine - A Build Thread (11 Viewers)

[GLTHFJ60]

I have more but my big laptop just s*** the bed.

This week I plan to install my saginaw PS pump that I bought from lynchmob and start rebuilding my York so I can install that as well.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Started on the Saginaw install today. Have a few issues that I need some advice for.

First issue is that the bracket I bought from lynchmob to hold the saginaw uses the two front head bolts on the US driver's side. While this is not inherently an issue, I don't want to warp my head. My question is can I just remove both of the bolts, put the bracket on and re-torque the bolts to spec? Should I do them in any particular order? Pics are below.

Second issue is how to tension the belt. The way this bracket lines up the saginaw pulley, the belt would go PS Pump>Waterpump>Crank>tensioner ( where smog pump used to be ). I am not sure if it would be easier to figure out a tensioner for that setup or to fab up a bracket like RayN did with his Saginaw install. Any opinions?

Bracket:

Head bolts where bracket mounts:

General location of pump in engine bay. Note old tensioner just under the saginaw:

 

[GLTHFJ60]

I see one issue with each mounting solution ( head bolts vs stock ps bracket ). Issue with the stock bracket is I don't think I have the correct pulley on my saginaw to have the belts line up. Issue with the head bolt method is the tensioner.

From looking at the diagrams on SOR's website and this picture ( engine my bracket came off of ) it looks like if I can source a non-powersteering smog pump tensioner bracket that I could make this work pretty easily. I think that the head bolt option would be easier. Thoughts?

From Lynchmob's FJ40 12HT install thread:

SOR's website:

 

[GLTHFJ60]

After staring at it for a while, I think I have an idea. One of the lower bolt holes on the bracket may work with my stock tensioner. Here is a crappy pic of it to show what I'm thinking of. The hole that lines up is the hole on the tensioner that is closest to my wrist. If it works well enough, I'll drill a second hole in the bracket for the other tensioner bolt and call it good. However, before trying this out, I want to know about the head bolts.

 

[TLC Norway]

seems like a good setup to me. i would take the chance of using the head bolts, after measuring the lengths of threads, and call it good if there is plenty left. B-b-but that's me, wait for some serious feedback...

 

[Cruiserdrew]

On the head bolts, those two have been out and back in 3 times over 10 years without a leak. This was on my FJ40 with a 76 2F. Anyway, I was expecting a problem and was pleasantly surprised that it did not occur.

I don't understand how that bracked will serve as the tensioner. Am I missing something?

Good luck.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

On the head bolts, those two have been out and back in 3 times over 10 years without a leak. This was on my FJ40 with a 76 2F. Anyway, I was expecting a problem and was pleasantly surprised that it did not occur.

I don't understand how that bracked will serve as the tensioner. Am I missing something?

Good luck.

The saginaw bracket itself will just support the pump. I am holding up the stock smog pump tensioner to the side of the saginaw pump ( where one of the bolt holes lines up ) and I will use that as the tensioner for the belt that will go Saginaw>Waterpump>Crank>Tensioner.

Based on some research, and Cruiserdrew's account, I'll go ahead with the bracket install tomorrow morning and report whether whether or not my idea works.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Got the pump on the block today and figured out how the tensioner is going to work out. Didn't get a chance to button it up today because I wanted a slightly longer belt, needed one longer bolt for the tensioner mount and finally needed to come up with a new high pressure hose. The HP hose will be the saginaw end with my stock HP line, using a high compression fitting to join the two pieces. We'll see how that works out tomorrow.

Here are some pics of the tensioner.

Third pic shows me holding the idler pulley up to the tensioner bracket. Should work out pretty well.

 

[CruisinFJ60]

whats the saginaw off of?

 

[GLTHFJ60]

More posts no one cares about, lol

whats the saginaw off of?

I do not know, but it did not have the pressure fitting to allow my stock high pressure line to work.


Got it all buttoned up on Thursday and have been driving it for the past couple of days. The last bits of the install were a bit tricky as the clearances are tight. I had to cut a slot in the bracket to allow my longer bolt to fit on without taking off the pump's pulley ( didn't have right size allen wrench ). My tensioner idea worked out perfectly and the only modification I had to do there was drill out the tensioner bracket holes to fit the larger bolts used on the saginaw.

Instead of having a custom high pressure line made ( expensive? ) I decided to try a suggestion from one of the techs at NAPA. I picked up this 3/8" compression fitting and figured I could splice the two lines together to make it work. Cutting the high pressure line lynchmob sent me was a piece of cake as the tubing was thin, but the Toyota line had a much thicker wall diameter. The OD is also slightly larger than 3/8" so I ground down the tube until it would fit, trying to make it as uniform as possible. After grinding I was able to slide both ends in and tighten the fitting. So far it has served its purpose without leaks.

One side installed:

Size difference between Toyota PS line ( thicker one ) and US line.

Finished compression fitting adapting the factory line to Saginaw compatible line. You can see on the factory line where I ground it down to fit.

Overall, I see almost no difference on the road, but hopefully this modification will prove worthwhile in the rocks.

 

[Cruiserdrew]

Overall, I see almost no difference on the road, but hopefully this modification will prove worthwhile in the rocks.

Nicely done. Will we see you at Rubithon this year? Sign up for the wagon run. You can stage from my house in Sacramento if you need to.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Nicely done. Will we see you at Rubithon this year? Sign up for the wagon run. You can stage from my house in Sacramento if you need to.

Man, I would LOVE to but it depends on my financial situation come summertime. I don't think there is much I would do to Moonshine before the ride out there, which is pretty comforting. What would my list be for a trip like that? Off the top of my head:

• Tune motor ( make it idle and get decent mileage )
• Front shocks
• Body Armor
• Rear Locker
• Spares ( driveshafts, bearing kits, extra studs )
• Maybe a fridge?
• Exhaust and some sound insulation

Not that many things really

 

[Cruiserdrew]

Man, I would LOVE to but it depends on my financial situation come summertime. I don't think there is much I would do to Moonshine before the ride out there, which is pretty comforting. What would my list be for a trip like that? Off the top of my head:

• Front shocks
• Body Armor
• Rear Locker
• Spares ( driveshafts, bearing kits, extra studs )
• Maybe a fridge?
• Exhaust and some sound insulation

Not that many things really

Front shocks would be good.

Body Armor-Sliders are basically mandatory. The rest is optional. If your body is really crap, sliders may be optional, your call.

Rear locker--required. Front is good, but CaliCruiser did it last year without and did fine.

Spares--Lots out here. Have cash, but likely not needed. I'll have a bunch of 60 spare parts.

Fridge-A luxury. Not required.

Sound Insulation--For wimps. Wear ear plugs.

Your E-brake needs to appear to work. It's on the safety inspection. PM me if this is a major problem.


3000 miles to get here is a bit daunting. In a 60 you're looking at 5-7 days each way. I made it in 4 days once. In a 60, count on more. I'm thinking a 3 week commitment.

Love to have you there.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Sounds reasonable. Need to figure out if I can sacrifice a month to this excursion, although I'm not sure if I will be able to do this in the future ( past this summer ).

By shocks I mean install ford towers with some long travel billie 7100's or BBCS shocks. I have slightly longer stockers on there now.

On the e-brake. I can't figure the damn thing out. Ever since the SOA it has stuck in the engaged position. I can set it and it works great, but when I release the cable never releases. I can't figure out if it's the bell cranks or the cable itself.

Now that I'm thinking about it more, I also need to install a rear trac-bar and do a skidplate at the same time. The stocker won't hold up much longer.

There's always something else, right?

 

[Cruiserdrew]

You can install Ford towers in 1 afternoon. They are pretty good actually.

Some Bilstein 5125s with 12 inch travel would be just fine in your application. This part # works well: BE5-6249-H5

You need to look at the e-brake cable and take down the front support and elongate the rear support at the axle. then free the bell cranks and adjusting hardware. I just bought new parts and it works great.

If this is your window, well...this is your window! Don't screw it up.

A month is not an unreasonable time frame. That's enough time to hit Moab on the way home.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

You can install Ford towers in 1 afternoon. They are pretty good actually.

Some Bilstein 5125s with 12 inch travel would be just fine in your application. This part # works well: BE5-6249-H5

You need to look at the e-brake cable and take down the front support and elongate the rear support at the axle. then free the bell cranks and adjusting hardware. I just bought new parts and it works great.

If this is your window, well...this is your window! Don't screw it up.

A month is not an unreasonable time frame. That's enough time to hit Moab on the way home.

The way the PO set up the shock mount on the front axle, the towers will fit really nice. When the weather gets warmer, I'll throw them on. Maybe I will go with the 5125's. They will definitely be the more economical choice.

For the e-brake. I did elongate the mount on the axle, by a couple of inches. When that didn't help I figured that the upper body mount was the issue so I unbolted it and re-tested the function of the e-brake with no change. I lubricated the bellcranks with wd40 and tried to work them around with no change as well. I then thought it was the angle of the pivot on the axle so I took that apart and greased it up. When that didn't work I thought it might be the angle of the pivot since I rotated the axle up for the pinion angle so I bent it up and down, testing at different angles, with no progress. Finally, I disconnected the plastic slider where the cable goes over the diff, but that didn't help either. It's quite frustrating.

How far are you supposed to elongate the axle mount? There are some pictures of how I set it up a page or two back.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Last two good videos of drifting.


This one shows all of us after we were done.

 

[brokenparts]

nice set up on the pump. I think I have a saginaw to toy gearbox hydraulic line with fittings from my old set up. If I can find it it yours.... might be nice as a trail spare. PM'd you about the bumper.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

nice set up on the pump. I think I have a saginaw to toy gearbox hydraulic line with fittings from my old set up. If I can find it it yours.... might be nice as a trail spare. PM'd you about the bumper.

That would be awesome!

PM incoming

 

[brokenparts]

Hi-jack...

PM'd ya.