Builds Moonshine - A Build Thread (1 Viewer)

[The Phoenician]

You've taken insanity to a new level. I like it.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

I eluded to my shifter plan changing in an earlier post. I had planned to retain the old twin stick shifters, and add a pneumatic shifter for the ecobox. Turns out I have almost zero room to the floor, so I sold my old twin sticks and came up with a plan to mount the triples that came from @mr jits . To keep the shifters in the same spot, I had to cut a new hole in the floor and make a bracket to lift the shifter assembly an inch for clearance with everything underneath. This bracket landed on the side of the transmission tunnel, so things got a little funky.

Shifters:

The aformentioned bracket. This will weld into the floor, provide the 1" of lift I need, and provide a sturdy surface to bolt the shifter to, with captured nuts. I'm really starting to enjoy sheet metal fabricating. Made this out of a sheet of, I think, 16 gauge.

Approx location. You can see the old shifter hole through the center of the new bracket.

Metal will come from this flat bracket down to the transmission tunnel in the section where it's both narrowing, and cuving down, with ribs in the middle. The cut got a little weird, trying to project the straight line down onto the anything-but-straight section of tunnel, but it will work well:

Doesn't look flat, but it's pretty close, relative to the transmission shifter hole.

Oh yeah.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

With that out of the way, I changed gears to the transmission crossmember, to get the drivetrain mounted. This needs to be done so that the drivetrain position is finalized, to be able to create the new transmission tunnel.

1.5" .250 wall DOM tubing, bent up on my Rogue Fab tubing bender. Used a transmission mount plate from Barnes 4WD, along with a crossmember bushing kit. Narrowed the transmission mount plate to be just wide enough for the specific mount I'm using. Ended up nice and beefy.

Notched the tubing on my bridgeport. Was incredibly easy, way easier than I thought it'd be.

Had to clear the front driveshaft, so I got creative with the hoop. Came out pretty crazy IMO, but I love it

As I'm going through these pictures, I am thinking I need to put scab plates on the frame for the crossmember mounts. No worries, now that the crossmember is tacked together, it'll be easy to thin out the mount tabs, weld them to the scab plate, then use the crossmember to locate them on the frame once again.

More updates to come!! Pushing to get this done for logan's run next month

 

[cruisermatt]

I need to re-do my shifter mount like that. I welded mine to the removable access panel and it is just not strong enough since half of that is gone.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Of course after posting the pictures above, I realized that my crossmember is right in line with the damn cable shifters for the 205. Can't move the crossmember lower because it'll run into the front driveshaft. Will have to move the crossmember hoop up, and mount the cable shifters to a plate that'll I'll create off the bottom of the crossmember.

Pic from @mr jits build thread for comparison.

*sigh*

 

[mr jits]

Of course after posting the pictures above, I realized that my crossmember is right in line with the damn cable shifters for the 205. Can't move the crossmember lower because it'll run into the front driveshaft. Will have to move the crossmember hoop up, and mount the cable shifters to a plate that'll I'll create off the bottom of the crossmember.

Pic from @mr jits build thread for comparison.

*sigh*

I don't think I posted my transmission crossmember, but I'd had to use a piece of 3" DOM to create a notch in the crossmember large enough to give clearance to the front driveshaft, but also not taking up too much realestate so that I could get the drivetrain as tucked up as possible.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Made the hoop a bit higher, then welded the cable shifter mount to the crossmember, and we're good to go. Finish welded the crossmember after this picture as well. Another step!!

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Pulled the t-case out yesterday to put on the NWF rear seal retainer and do the front digs mod to the rear shift rail. On pirate, they said it'd take 15 minutes, so I figured 3 hours, but damn, 30 minutes and it could not have been easier. Used this guide:

How to: NP 205 twin stick CHEAP! - Page 4 - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum

Stock rear shift rail with areas colored in that will be removed.

Modified shift rail:

Crossmember fully welded, mounts on the frame welded in with 1/4" scab plates. Gave her some paint and put it in for good.

Hangs down a bit, but not too bad:

So pretty. Very, very happy with how this came out:

Next up, sheetmetal work, and a lot of it!!

 

[cruisermatt]

Looking good. Now build two more of those transmission crossmembers

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Looking good. Now build two more of those transmission crossmembers

You want one? They're not hard to make.

 

[boots4]

What do you think about adding a rib to the top side of your crossmember where they form a 90? You could even drill some speed holes in the rib to look fancy.

 

[cruisermatt]

No, put two more under your truck and link them all together for a sweet skid plate.

 

[boots4]

I would still brace that connection. That's a lot of weight to control. With a manual, low gearing, big tires, and driving style that will put quite a bit of stress on the crossmember(s).

 

[GLTHFJ60]

What do you think about adding a rib to the top side of your crossmember where they form a 90? You could even drill some speed holes in the rib to look fancy.

View attachment 1773074

I had considered adding a gusset at one point, but forgot about it, when I realized that 1.5" .250 wall DOM tubing is already significantly stronger than what was previously there.

Dammit mike, why couldn't you have reminded me of this on Tuesday Not sure that there is room for a gusset, but I'll look.

 

[boots4]

Hopefully it should only take an hour to do and that you can make a shape that fits the space constraints. I'm just concerned with the 90 connection cracking more than bending. Just added assurance.

What other support are you putting on there? A 205 bracket at the back?

 

[GLTHFJ60]

It's not quite 90, but I hear you.

Yeah, 205 support off the rear output seal retainer. Same poly mount, then another crossmember.

 

[cruisermatt]

You could put two plates along the SIDES of the tubes. You wouldn’t even have to remove it to do that.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Here you go @boots4 . Good idea, thanks man

 

[boots4]

Good job man, that was quick!

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Had to take the weekend off for a bachelor party, but I'm back on the bandwagon. Feels good to have tangible progress.

I need a bead roller.