Mike's 1978 FJ40 Build

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Enjoy the ignition interrupt, once you get it hooked up... I can't tell you how many times I forgot I had it locked!!

With it locked, the starter turns and the truck never starts... I kept forgetting...
 


Sorry Mike! I meant to mention this and got sidetracked... If it's a steel cable, stand off to the side as far as you can... And hang a heavy blanket off of the cable, part of the way to the winched item... To absorb some of the force of the snapped/loose cable.

I don't know about synthetic, but the steel on the end is still killer!!

Good in ya @Heron !!
 
Thanks Danny!

I forgot to lay the blanket that's in my cruiser specifically to throw on the steel winch line when winching, I'd hate to learn from mistakes, but I have a lot of senior moments these days, more than I care to admit to. My memory is gone and never to return to its original state, now I'm in a constant state of confusion.
 
I had an event this morning with my 40, I started it, ran OK for about five minutes and then pushed the choke knob in and the engine died, did this several times and right away I thought idle solenoid. I disconnected the solenoid wire for testing purposes and ran a new test wire directly from the battery to the solenoid and no click, I guess the solenoid is toast.[/USER] .

@65swb45 Mark, do you by any chance carry the throttle idle solenoid for a 1978? I'm in need for one.
 
Hood lock install continuation.


Drilled hole for lock cable
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Installed cable
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While in there I also cleaned and inspected the solenoid controller
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Installed rubber grommet to protect cable
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Tapped radiator frame to secure lock striker
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Lock striker installed
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How'd you fix it Mike?

I cleaned the wire connectors and also cleaned the solenoid/emissions controller wire connectors and mother board, I put it all back together and it worked, so now when I turn the ignition key I hear the solenoid click. I'll fire up the engine in the morning and see how it runs.


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Danny, so I got the lock installed but there's an issue, when I push the lock down the striker bolt does not pop out, in fact I could move with my hand in and out, something is out of whack. I was too tired to deal with it tonight and I'm sure it will be there waiting for me tomorrow. Any ideas as to why the bolt doesn't pop out when I lock it?
 
It's already out in your pics Mike... Are they taken with the lock in or out?

I simply adjusted the bolt on the striker until I had the hood tightly locked.

The cable moved smoothly in its sheath.
 
I simply popped it out by hand, otherwise it doesn't move when locked, mine has a lot of slack in the cable.
 
If you still have pretty tight bends in the cable, it may be binding...

I would try to make sure the bends aren't too tight... And spray a bit of WD40 into the sheath, from the engine side... Then, manually work the cable back and forth in the sheath... To try to make sure it isn't binding.

I didn't have this problem.
 
I cleaned the wire connectors and also cleaned the solenoid/emissions controller wire connectors and mother board, I put it all back together and it worked, so now when I turn the ignition key I hear the solenoid click. I'll fire up the engine in the morning and see how it runs.

To me, this is one of the most endearing qualities of the FJ40: the fact that you can take many of the components apart and make them work again with some........tlc.

Remind me to tell you guys about my customer who jury-rigged his fuel pump with ziploc baggies. I don't have time right now. It's 9pm, I'm still at the shop, and I want to go home.

FWIW, I don't have any solenoids. I'm kind of short myself, and I've had my eye on the ones Cruiser Corps offers.

Best

Mark
 
Mike, I'm going to go out on a limb here and make some guesses as to what your problem is. Going by what I see in the second pic in post number 651, the cable appears to have too tight of a bend where it goes over the steering column and through the firewall, if I'm seeing things there correctly (pictures can lie to you easily). These types of cables don't like very tight bends, and it appears that you have an almost 360* loop to miss the brake pedal arm. Instead, they work better when the cable is kept to an almost straight line. Some minor bends and the cable will work OK though.

Again, pictures can show things that are not actually correct, so I could be seeing things.

Don
 
Thanks Don! Next week I'll be working on the 40 again and I'll see if I can reduce the bends as per your recommendation, and I'll report back with the results.
 
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