- Thread starter
- #241
The Vintage Air site shows the tabs to the rear and the large line on top...from what I can tell.
Search Results - Vintage Air
Search Results - Vintage Air
Micro-Tube Parallel Flow Condenser
- Thread starter Dissent
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- Thread starter
- #242
Very true, not sure why he mentioned the 2nd switch.CoolThe monster supercool condenser fits easily. Getting your lines plumbed in there looks very do-able.
The GS300 unit would fill the space much closer to left and right edges.
The GS300 unit is just a bit over 5/8" thick, vs the 1" thick monster supercool, so I suppose the monster to be higher cooling capacity even though it is a bit less frontal area.
@flintknapper - wouldn't the 2nd dryer in the upstream position (shown in diagram) serve better as accumulator (like an electrical bypass capacitor), buffering sudden engagement of the #2 circuit? If it was downstream of the solenoid, it would not be sourced when off.
@Dissent - I cannot see the purpose of a 2nd over-pressure safety switch in the 2nd circuit.
It's not possible for the 2nd circuit to have higher pressure than the common source.
No paperwork. Ill have to double check when i get home. I looked at your diagram again and looks like im wrong. Looks like the #8 should be on top and the #6 at the bottom. I can flip it and mounting tabs would be in the right place.
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- #244
Look at that dual diagram. There's a #10, #8, and #6 involved. From what I recall, the bigger port is on top.
I think it is necessary to have the bigger diameter hot vapor line input at top, and smaller diameter cooled liquid line output at bottom.
Gravity is assisting the downward flow. Vapor turns to liquid and density increases.
I think you're right. I got it backwards. I would ba able to mount it correctly now. Thanks.
I've nothing to add other than that my evaporator is showing up today and will have the system charged tomorrow, and that you guys are awesome figuring this all out. I'd like to propose that once the rear ac solution is found, this thread be made a sticky.
I don't see it that way. In it's current location (which as drawn will be nothing like the LONG lines needed to reach a rear mounted evaporator anyway) once the solenoid valve is shut off all flow to the 2nd evaporator ceases (regardless the valve location). So moving the valve (anywhere between the evaporator and the high side Tee provides the same function).
But the 'drier' does serve a certain purpose and where it is mounted/located in the circuit can make a difference. As depicted...the 2nd drier does not contribute anything to the 1st evaporator and is not intended to. Once the solenoid valve is shut off... the circuit starting at the Tee up to the valve becomes a dead leg. The refrigerant and oil cannot back flow and be utilized by Evap #1...but it can receive/absorb heat from the lines which will create more pressure for the compressor to work against.
It is also a potential spot for a leak in the 1st system while contributing nothing to it. I say 'nothing' but that is not completely accurate. My guess is that the drier (along with supply line) is intended to act as a mini 'accumulator' to hold unneeded refrigerant when the rear system is shut off and/or heat loads are low.
That is fine, otherwise the system would essentially be 'overcharged' to some degree when the second evaporator is not being used.
But by moving the solenoid valve to just beyond the high side Tee and locating the drier between that and the 2nd evaporator you 'isolate' the system. It removes the possibility of a leak from the 2nd drier affecting the primary system (though we shouldn't have leaks to begin with). It relieves the compressor of any additional pressure that might be caused by flash gassing (it certainly isn't going to subcool anymore) and it effectively holds the unneeded refrigerant but in a different way. It would now isolate and hold the refrigerant from just after the Tee all the way to the TXV (which should be closed or nearly so).
There should be no buffering needed. The 2nd drier as depicted (solenoid valve closed) is just getting hammered by start up pressure each time the compressor engages and overcomes equalization pressure. And for what?
The only possible advantage I see from its current location would be that the PAG oil and the refrigerant are always well agitated. But PAG46 is highly miscible with R134a and even if there was some separation during long periods of non-use (rear A/C) it quickly gets picked up by the refrigerant again. We use PAG46 in our systems (the lowest viscosity for that type).
So...I am not saying the depicted routing is flawed, I am just suggesting it might be better in certain areas if changed. But I don't know exactly what their engineers had in mind. I'm sure some of them have more experience than me....and my experience is quite dated at that.
OK, thanks for explaining. Certainly, there are many competing factors to consider. I'm getting a big education from this thread. (1/2
HVAC guy)
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- #250
Received my new evaporator today. IT'S HUGE! I hadn't taken the old one out yet. 
This Denso unit is made in Japan yet the Denso TXV was made in Taiwan and the Denso Drier and (returned) Condenser were both made in China. 
I thought all Denso was Japanese. 
This Denso unit is made in Japan yet the Denso TXV was made in Taiwan and the Denso Drier and (returned) Condenser were both made in China. I thought all Denso was Japanese. 
Tapage
Club 4X4 Panamá
I'm not .. my AC ( well you gotta keep in mind that my 80 works on a 84°F plus environment temp with 90% humidity around the year ) works as good as it gets .. rarely I see it under 50°F ( vent temp ) unless it's raining and I'm moving .. but 50°F - 60°F it's normal and aceptable to me ..
I thought all Denso was Japanese.
Heavens no. Denso has over 180 subsidiaries. Parts are manufactured in many different countries.
I tried removing the plastic caps off the condenser fittings and there seems to have pressure. I was removing it to see what kind of fitting it is. Is it ok to release that pressure and not hooking it up to the system right away?
I also went to a local hose store today and looks like theres a lot of different fittings. Im trying to figure out what the supercool fittings are. I was gonna try to make a custom hose where the other end is oe style toyota to connect to the compressor and the other is whatever kind of fitting the condenser has. Unfortunately the store did not have fittings similar to the toyota ones.
I ordered mastercool crimper 71550. Is this what you have @Dissent? This line customizing is proving to be a lot more difficult than I expected but I am learning each day. Very slow though.lol.
I also went to a local hose store today and looks like theres a lot of different fittings. Im trying to figure out what the supercool fittings are. I was gonna try to make a custom hose where the other end is oe style toyota to connect to the compressor and the other is whatever kind of fitting the condenser has. Unfortunately the store did not have fittings similar to the toyota ones.
I ordered mastercool crimper 71550. Is this what you have @Dissent? This line customizing is proving to be a lot more difficult than I expected but I am learning each day. Very slow though.lol.
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- #254
I don't have the crimper yet but that is what I was looking at.
I'd call Vintage Air or haul the condenser down there. I know most of the Vintage Air stuff are standard #6, #8 and #10 fittings.
The compressor uses a manifold block, not sure if there is an aftermarket version.
Those plastic caps are probably just held on with pressure from shipping, I just found the same pressure on my new evaporator. You can pop them off. You just want to keep dirt and contaminants out. Its ok to pop them off and just replace them when you are done. The PF condenser has very small passages which are easily clogged up with dirt and grit.
Looks like theres an O-ring type and a flared type fitting. Ill call vintage air tomorrow to ask what type of fitting there is. Looks like i might have to source most of my tube, hose and fittings from them anyway.
I think this is the adaptor i need for the compressor and front evap.
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- #257
A local shop should be able to modify the existing Toyota lines with new standard AN/o-ring flare fittings for the new condenser and tee.
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Trinary switch on my 97 (don't know about other year models). It is located just in front of the battery on the high side line. It incorporates the high and low pressure cut out for the A/C compressor...but also can control an Aux Fan just by adding a couple of wires to it (relay, etc.) It works off of system pressure...not temperature.
The cruiser also has a temp sensor that will shut down the A/C system at approximately 220-226° F. (coolant temp) and let it come back in at around 216°F but that is a separate deal altogether.
Since I am plumbing a new system, I guess I should get a drier that has a trinary switch installed already. Do I need the same for the 2nd drier or its just redundant?
