If you are removing the factory high side line that already has the trinary switch...then yes, you can use a drier that has the switch. And no...you would not need a second switch on the second drier.
Micro-Tube Parallel Flow Condenser
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If you are removing the factory high side line that already has the trinary switch...then yes, you can use a drier that has the switch. And no...you would not need a second switch on the second drier.
I found this on jegs. Looks like general purpose fittings. Available in 6 AN and 10 AN sizes. Can I use this for ac purposes?
@flintknapper Am I correct that AN fittings=flared fittings and not to confuse with O-ring type fittings?
Yes, just make sure your lines and fittings have the same Flare Seat Angle (there are 37° and 45° available).
Best thing to do would be to call Vintage Air. They make all the products you are going to be buying anyway.
Hose Kits and Fittings - Vintage Air
Correct.
An 'AN' fitting is a Flare fitting (Army/Navy) standardized thread size and pitch...nothing else.
Thats what I thought so too but I just got off the phone with vintage air and the guy said they only carry AN fitting with o-rings for r-134.
I found the correct tee fitting in page 76 of their catalog.
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- #267
Here's a good thread on adding the additional ground wires to the OEM Trinary switch. I included the wire part numbers at the bottom:
ABC's of 80's Cooling Part II - Aux Fan Wiring
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- #268
@ARB777 I'd recommend going with o-ring connections only after doing some research on fittings. The flare fittings were primarily for R12 systems from what I've come across. Any shop should be able to re-terminate a line or hose with metric O-ring fittings on the ends to match the OEM Toyota connections. They could also assist in converting the OEM lines to the new condenser.
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- #269
From what I've seen, those AN fittings with O-rings are to convert from normal pipe thread to AN. My quick disconnect fittings for the gauge set has AN/o-ring fittings to adapt them to the gauge hoses.
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- #270
Here's a very interesting thread I came across researching the lines and terminations on the 80. This page has some fittings that can be used to adapt aftermarket components to the OEM Toyota system. Still reading through it all.
JDM a/c drier relocation kit
JDM a/c drier relocation kit
Tell them what you are doing and go with what they recommend.
Ok heres whats happening right now. I had the shop chop off the fittings from the old condenser and weld a male AN type fitting #6 for the out and #8 for the in. They are also welding a #10 AN fitting to serve as a tee for the return from the back and a #6 AN fitting as tee to supply refrigerant to the back. Im gonna crimp my own lines with female ends to bridge the tee and the rear unit. $75 per welded fitting. So thats $300 for all four.
oh im going this route because neither vintage air or cold hose has any oe style fittings. So i cant really make my own lines that has oe style on one and AN type on the other.
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- #275
Boy, that adds up quick! So you're retaining the OEM condenser block connections on the truck (to the drier and compressor) via custom lines adapting the new condenser to the cut off blocks from the old condenser?
Are the new tee joints braised onto these modified block locations or where do the tee's come in exactly?
Having the 'universal' AN fitting for the rear is a smart move. Any pics yet?
It does add up quick. I could've learned how to braze but its gonna take a while. Lines are still at the shop. I am removing one more line and bringing it to them. I am thinking about doing the liquid line tee right after the drier just for the ease of working with it but it is before the binary switch. I dont know if that matters. If not, I may do it about a feet after the binary switch. Right about above the fuse box.
Would this be of any help for the fittings?
Adapters - Specialty Fittings - AP Air Inc
That site has a crap load of other stuff that may be relevant to this thread...
Adapters - Specialty Fittings - AP Air Inc
That site has a crap load of other stuff that may be relevant to this thread...
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- #278
Maybe. It would be great to find a "Toyota version" of this block to AN fitting for the condenser for those that want the larger condenser but may not be doing a rear evap.
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- #279
Learning to braise involves more gear! It's not terribly tough but I'd leave that to the shop.
I'm not sure if the location of the tee matters...I would defer to @flintknapper. Now I personally would prefer to keep the tees and rear lines close together to make it easier to route them back there. I was picturing the tees close to the compressor manifold, if possible, but I'm still ignorant of the best location to tap in.
