Micro-Tube Parallel Flow Condenser (2 Viewers)

[ARB777]

I went to a local ac shop today to inquire about setting up the lines going to the rear. He is charging $195 per line. One high pressure and one low pressure so 2 lines he said. So right around $400 plus refrigerant. He advised to use a plug and play condenser vs one that needs new lines. Based on what @JHB Cruising and @Dindu Nuffin has posted, the nissen unit is pretty much plug and play. I wonder if its sufficient enough or i really need the monster supercool unit. @Dindu Nuffin can you post pics of your condenser install? Particularly the ac line connections if you could. Thanks.

 

[Dissent]

I went to a local ac shop today to inquire about setting up the lines going to the rear. He is charging $195 per line. One high pressure and one low pressure so 2 lines he said. So right around $400 plus refrigerant. He advised to use a plug and play condenser vs one that needs new lines. Based on what @JHB Cruising and @Dindu Nuffin has posted, the nissen unit is pretty much plug and play. I wonder if its sufficient enough or i really need the monster supercool unit. @Dindu Nuffin can you post pics of your condenser install? Particularly the ac line connections if you could. Thanks.

Good info. Are those aluminum lines and does that include the tees?

 

[White Stripe]

Awesome. Pulling the evaporator wasn't nearly as bad as I thought it'd be. It's pretty straight forward, but if you get hung up on anything, this thread is a great reference:

A/C system - how to remove the cooling unit, evaporator, expansion valve

Here's what I saw when I got it apart.

View attachment 1764958

Looks like 1/3rd of your evaporator is clogged. The old expansion valves get lazy with age too so that also can choke cooling. Toyota had a bulletin on their expansion valves not working very well in the 90s and had updated ones. I installed a new denso one from rock auto. The evaporator I replaced with a aftermarket Ebay unit. Looks really close in construction to the old original.

 

[Dindu Nuffin]

@Dindu Nuffin can you post pics of your condenser install? Particularly the ac line connections if you could. Thanks.

I cannot; everything is buttoned back up. But... I removed the grill, the top two headlight bolts on both headlights, and I removed the upper radiator brace/crossmember, but left the tranny cooler in place. Once there, it's two 10mm bolts holding the high and low lines on the condenser and out it comes.

Installation is opposite of removal, and is a bite of a banana... seriously, an oil change is harder.

 

[ARB777]

Good info. Are those aluminum lines and does that include the tees?

We were talking about where to tee it so i am assuming he is going to. I didnt even think about the rubber hose so i guess i just assumed that it is going to be an aluminum line. A lot of loose ends in our conversation. Ill give him a call on monday to clarify these.

 

[ARB777]

I cannot; everything is buttoned back up. But... I removed the grill, the top two headlight bolts on both headlights, and I removed the upper radiator brace/crossmember, but left the tranny cooler in place. Once there, it's two 10mm bolts holding the high and low lines on the condenser and out it comes.

Installation is opposite of removal, and is a bite of a banana... seriously, an oil change is harder.

Were the refrigerant lines on the nissen condenser in the right place? The oem lines connected right in with no modifications?

 

[Dindu Nuffin]

Were the refrigerant lines on the nissen condenser in the right place? The oem lines connected right in with no modifications?

Other than what I mentioned in my previous post about lubing the rubber feet and bending the tubes, no... it was a bolt in affair.

 

[ARB777]

While looking for possible rear units. I discovered that proair's western division is local to me. They're at rancho cucamonga, ca. They are suggesting either proair 1100 or AT2. I asked about cool only units and basically he said thats all he has as far as size goes (quarter panels). He said just dont hook up the heater lines and it should be fine. About minimum condenser requirements, he said these are "tie-in" units. Meaning that we dont have to change condensers. However, they are used to tying it in with domestic vans and trucks that most likely have significantly bigger condensers than ours. I asked about teeing from front to back. They sell block fittings to connect rear lines. However, they are vehicle specific and dont make any for toyotas. Looks like its getting more and more doable. Any input on these info @flintknapper

 

[Dissent]

While looking for possible rear units. I discovered that proair's western division is local to me. They're at rancho cucamonga, ca. They are suggesting either proair 1100 or AT2. I asked about cool only units and basically he said thats all he has as far as size goes (quarter panels). He said just dont hook up the heater lines and it should be fine. About minimum condenser requirements, he said these are "tie-in" units. Meaning that we dont have to change condensers. However, they are used to tying it in with domestic vans and trucks that most likely have significantly bigger condensers than ours. I asked about teeing from front to back. They sell block fittings to connect rear lines. However, they are vehicle specific and dont make any for toyotas. Looks like its getting more and more doable. Any input on these info @flintknapper

Good info! I did find out that the AC lines should be standard AN fittings #6 and #8 (if I recall correctly). Any tee or loop block that supports those threads will work. I don't think Ford/GM/Dodge use anything weird.
That initial condenser size is a concern. The bigger vans and trucks have much more grill space and larger condensers. I had looked at auxiliary condensers with a dedicated 12" fan and found a couple that may cram above the spare tire. They are aux only, not primary for that location. Not sure if that's needed with the new PF condenser.

 

[ARB777]

I was told by the ac shop that another compressor is needed for another condenser. So basically that would have its own system. Could be doable if you install a york compressor for use as ac compressor vs OBA.

It looks like it may work with just using the nissens but i really would hate to buy another one if it wont work.

Also, vintage air sells aluminum lines with fittings at the end already. Longest is 72 in for around $22 each. Seems long enough to span most of the under carriage and then use rubber hose from each end (to the tee upfront and to the rear unit).

 

[ARB777]

IIRC, you mentioned you need another dryer for the rear. My understanding though is you just need the txv, evap and blower plus the 2 lines. Can anyone clarify this?

 

[Dissent]

I was told by the ac shop that another compressor is needed for another condenser. So basically that would have its own system. Could be doable if you install a york compressor for use as ac compressor vs OBA.

It looks like it may work with just using the nissens but i really would hate to buy another one if it wont work.

Also, vintage air sells aluminum lines with fittings at the end already. Longest is 72 in for around $22 each. Seems long enough to span most of the under carriage and then use rubber hose from each end (to the tee upfront and to the rear unit).

The guys at Vintage Air said you could run a 2nd condenser in serial, although it's not real common, no 2nd compressor needed. I suspect the Nissens will work but there's only 1 way to find out! I'd go with aluminum lines under the truck.

 

[Dissent]

IIRC, you mentioned you need another dryer for the rear. My understanding though is you just need the txv, evap and blower plus the 2 lines. Can anyone clarify this?

I've been told by Vintage Air and Arizona Mobile Air (ackits.com). That a 2nd drier should be run after the tee in the high pressure (liquid) line due to the (nearly) doubling the capacity of the system. Verification would be welcome.

 

[flintknapper]

I've been told by Vintage Air and Arizona Mobile Air (ackits.com). That a 2nd drier should be run after the tee in the high pressure (liquid) line due to the (nearly) doubling the capacity of the system. Verification would be welcome.

Yes, I agree. A 2nd drier would be desirable after the Tee in order to store liquid refrigerant and lessen the chance of flash gas occurring in the long lines back to the rear evaporator. If I were doing a rear A/C I would also incorporate a solenoid valve at the 'Tee' so I could isolate the rear unit from the front...when it is not needed. The rear A/C (since it is not a stand alone unit) is going to have a parasitic effect on the front, so expect a certain amount of that.

The mechanical aspects of adding rear A/C are not that difficult. When it comes to wiring/controlling the unit...then the fun begins (depending on how you want it to work).

 

[flintknapper]

The guys at Vintage Air said you could run a 2nd condenser in serial, although it's not real common, no 2nd compressor needed. I suspect the Nissens will work but there's only 1 way to find out! I'd go with aluminum lines under the truck.

10PA17C is plenty of compressor (if in good working order).

 

[ARB777]

The guys at Vintage Air said you could run a 2nd condenser in serial, although it's not real common, no 2nd compressor needed. I suspect the Nissens will work but there's only 1 way to find out! I'd go with aluminum lines under the truck.

I really just want to get the nissens but... I ordered the supercool instead. Hopefully i get it this week and get it mocked up atleast next week. Any cheap auto ac supply sites you guys know? For lines, fittings and hoses?

 

[Dissent]

I keep going back to Vintage Air. I used to buy from them for my old car projects and they have awesome pre-sales support teams.

 

[Dissent]

I really just want to get the nissens but... I ordered the supercool instead. Hopefully i get it this week and get it mocked up atleast next week. Any cheap auto ac supply sites you guys know? For lines, fittings and hoses?

Will the SuperCool fit? I had never taken a measurement in the truck as my condenser is still in there.

 

[ARB777]

Will the SuperCool fit? I had never taken a measurement in the truck as my condenser is still in there.

Based on dimension given. Looks like it will fit. Im determined to make it fit. So we'll see.

 

[Bambusiero]

Are you guys looking at the Vintage Air "Monster SuperFlow" condenser 16" tall x 27" wide x 1" thick ?
If so, looks to me like the in and out ports would have to go through holes bored in the car body - passenger side radiator frame.

Let me throw a possibly interesting twist into this plot.

1999 Lexus GS300 condenser is a definite match for the description and picture @flintknapper showed for the "Sub-Cool Modulator" design (which is also microtube parallel flow). (I have this car)
Looks like it will fit extremely well.
Vertical is a very tight fit - but does.
I measured with a "story stick" and get about 2mm gap.
Going from the Landcruiser frame, at the bottom ends where it is highest - to the underside of the top rail - where the hood latch attached.
The top edge of this condenser would be hiding from view.
Horizontal has probably a finger width at each end.

This would be very easy to fill the end gaps with foam and get full air flow through it.
Much better than the OEM unit.

This condenser has the receiver/dryer gas separator tube on the passenger side.
The dryer is some kind of cartridge or "sock" with stuff in it, that inserts from the bottom.

It would need a fairly simple vapor line extension, from the stock Landcruiser fitting on passenger side, crossing the face of the condenser to the intake port on drivers side.
Liquid line output port is about the right place.
Bottom support feet would move inward a few inches to a custom bracket in the Landcruiser frame valley.
Looks like they just unscrew.

These are readily available from several manufacturers from $60 - $120 (rockauto).