Micro-Tube Parallel Flow Condenser (4 Viewers)

[Dissent]

I'm planning to revamp my LX A/C because 60 degrees on the highway and 75 degree at idle vent temps aren't doing it for me. I just had the system leak tested, evacuated and recharged at the dealer. I just cleaned the condenser and foam cleaned the evaporator. I have a 100-series electric fan on the condenser as well. The system just can't cool the condenser well enough.

I want to R&R the condenser and I see that new cars all use Micro-Tube Parallel Flow Condensers.

Has anyone installed one of these and did it improve the vent temps? I'm looking for a US or Denso unit if you have a model number too.

EDIT: Here's the meat of the thread to save the trouble of searching for the part. This is an excerpt from Page 7:
Nissens condenser P/N 94184 (replaces original OEM P/N 88460-60160) shown by @JHB Cruising above and on Page 6.

I just ordered one from Rock Auto. The Nissens part number processed correctly but the line diagram picture is still the serpentine style even though Nissen's online catalog shows it properly. Go figure. I'll post up when it arrives. Here's some links.

Rock Auto: https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/nissens,94184,a/c+condenser,6708

Nissen Online Catalog for P/N 94184: Nissens Customer Portal

 

[Lionsgarage]

I have some experience with older r-12 to r134a conversions and am very interested to learn how your upgrade works.
I am in the middle of a v8 conversion and want to upgrade my condenser while the nose is off and the radiator is being replaced.
Keep me posted please.

 

[NLXTACY]

This is something I've never heard of. I'll likely be doing some AC service so if I have to do anything...

 

[Twinair]

What leads you to believe the condenser is at fault? Can you share your operating pressures, Liquid line temp, and vapor line temp? That will tell me everything I need to know about what's going on with your system.

 

[Dissent]

Pressures spec out at 25psi low and 265psi high at 106 degree ambient, before evac and recharge. Don't know exactly afterwards but Toyota said they were in spec. No idea what thr line temps are or how to measurw that. When I hose down the condenser, pressure drops on the high side and it gets cooler so I figure the condenser is doing a poor job of heat exchange.

The wife's 2001 RX300 and my boys 2004 Dakota both have ice cold air (40-45) vent temps in the same ambient temp. I'm actually driving the RX because my A/C sucks. Edit: The RX300 has a parallel flow condensers and the Dakota has a serpentine condenser like the LandCruiser. I'm also looking into parallel flow evaporator replacement options. New cars don't use the same tech that the LX has so why not improve it?

 

[slow95z]

i would say something is wrong. it gets hot here too, granted not as hot as there, but my AC tosses out super cold air.

you are going to laugh but this is what helped mine. after giving up and doing the whole "i will replace everything" trick after having a crap AC i found my evap box to be full of crap when i tore into it. years of leaves, pine straw, dirt... you name it. it was so clogged up that just cleaning it helped so much.

also check your coolant valve and make sure its not stuck open.

 

[Landseer]

I second the idea that something is wrong with the system. Is the heater control valve closing fully?

 

[landtank]

don't overlook your fan clutch as being part of the problem.

 

[Twinair]

I don't suspect the condenser to be your issue. I do second the motion of checking your heater control valve is working correctly and not hanging slightly open.

 

[bloc]

Even if heater control valve is slightly open the doors in the distribution box should keep it from impacting vent temps. I have my valve wide open now because the v8 apparently needs some heater line flow to control engine temps and my vent temps are still ice cold.

I also think something is wrong but I'd suspect evap box as someone else mentioned. Both of the cores I've had out of a cruiser were VERY clogged. A foam cleaner won't do anything for leaves and pine needles. It isn't too difficult to pull the blower motor and cage and get a look into the evap box to see what you are dealing with.

Also could be a bad expansion valve, clogged drier, etc.

Tons of guys have very good AC even with the stock heat exchangers. Also keep in mind the push for efficiency explains a LOT of the engineering put into modern cars.. sure the new condenser performs better, but usually this just means they can downsize it and/or use less fuel operating it.

 

[mudgudgeon]

I'd also suspect some is not working as it should.

The only time I found my A/C lacking was in 48C (118F) ambient, pushing through mountains. Even then, it wasn't the A/C not working, but the A/C cut out because engine coolant temp was getting too high.

In my work hack, commuter car the A/C was not working well last summer (we had a few weeks of 45C and ridiculous humidty). I was about to spend money on evacuating the system, re-gassing etc when something made me realise the fan wasn't blowing as much air as it should. This car had a filter on the cabin air re-circulation intake. The filter was clogged. after removing the filter A/C was icey cold in minutes. A huge contrast for 10minutes work and no $$$ down

 

[Dissent]

i would say something is wrong. it gets hot here too, granted not as hot as there, but my AC tosses out super cold air.

you are going to laugh but this is what helped mine. after giving up and doing the whole "i will replace everything" trick after having a crap AC i found my evap box to be full of crap when i tore into it. years of leaves, pine straw, dirt... you name it. it was so clogged up that just cleaning it helped so much.

also check your coolant valve and make sure its not stuck open.

I pulled out the thermistor to use the evaporator cleaning foam and there wasn't much in there. Just a few pine needles and some lint-like material on the fins.

What is a coolant valve?

 

[Dissent]

I second the idea that something is wrong with the system. Is the heater control valve closing fully?

Yup, it's closed. 90-95 ambient it cools pretty well.

 

[Dissent]

don't overlook your fan clutch as being part of the problem.

Fan clutch is good. It roars like a Cessna all summer long. If I rev it to 2000rpm at a light, temp drops to 60-65 degrees like on the freeway. I replaced the clutch fluid with 27K weight 4 years ago. Engine temps are fine. 190-205 when it's 120 out.

 

[Dissent]

I don't suspect the condenser to be your issue. I do second the motion of checking your heater control valve is working correctly and not hanging slightly open.

Heater valve is not hanging open, moved it back and forth and it's at full closed.
If dumping water on the condenser significantly drops the high pressure and temp instantly, doesn't that indicate the condenser isn't cooling effectively?

 

[Dissent]

Even if heater control valve is slightly open the doors in the distribution box should keep it from impacting vent temps. I have my valve wide open now because the v8 apparently needs some heater line flow to control engine temps and my vent temps are still ice cold.

I also think something is wrong but I'd suspect evap box as someone else mentioned. Both of the cores I've had out of a cruiser were VERY clogged. A foam cleaner won't do anything for leaves and pine needles. It isn't too difficult to pull the blower motor and cage and get a look into the evap box to see what you are dealing with.

Also could be a bad expansion valve, clogged drier, etc.

Tons of guys have very good AC even with the stock heat exchangers. Also keep in mind the push for efficiency explains a LOT of the engineering put into modern cars.. sure the new condenser performs better, but usually this just means they can downsize it and/or use less fuel operating it.

The pressures don't indicate a stuck expansion valve. I was curious about the drier but Toyota OK'd it today and in figured I'd end up replacing it eventually as I work through this.

 

[Dissent]

I'd also suspect some is not working as it should.

The only time I found my A/C lacking was in 48C (118F) ambient, pushing through mountains. Even then, it wasn't the A/C not working, but the A/C cut out because engine coolant temp was getting too high.

In my work hack, commuter car the A/C was not working well last summer (we had a few weeks of 45C and ridiculous humidty). I was about to spend money on evacuating the system, re-gassing etc when something made me realise the fan wasn't blowing as much air as it should. This car had a filter on the cabin air re-circulation intake. The filter was clogged. after removing the filter A/C was icey cold in minutes. A huge contrast for 10minutes work and no $$$ down

The plan was to replace the evap, condenser, drier, compressor eventually which is where the parallel flow condenser choice comes in. I can't imagine how more efficient could be bad no matter why it was engineered originally.

 

[Dissent]

I have great airflow on all the vents too.

So nobody has swapped in a parallel flow condenser then?

 

[Dissent]

What leads you to believe the condenser is at fault? Can you share your operating pressures, Liquid line temp, and vapor line temp? That will tell me everything I need to know about what's going on with your system.

Based on some research, those temps seem to be the surface temps of the inlet (low pressure)/outlet (high pressure) of the condenser. I can try and get those tomorrow.

 

[nukegoat]

I have great airflow on all the vents too.

So nobody has swapped in a parallel flow condenser then?

I think people just put in the generic replacements (I know I did) to avoid making mounts and fittings and so on.