making your own soft top.. because lets be honest.. you've built everything else (1 Viewer)

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woah cool truck! I'm using an LSZ-1 as well I think (it's the blue one) but the red one would work too. I have a 3/4 swing away binder and zipper foot are the only two attachments I've found necessary. I think it would be cool to add BJ44 measurements to the thread.

I think you really can't go wrong with any of those fabric choices. I will say that I really like Top Gun - order some test patches from http://www.rochfordsupply.com/ to see what you like best.
 
antFJ said:
I think it would be cool to add BJ44 measurements to the thread.
Click to expand...

I will be very happy to add measurements for the 44 as/when I tackle this.

One thing I'm still unsure of (particularly as I don't have the truck in front of me yet) is specifically how the front attaches to the frame immediately above the windshield. Is it just pressure as the top is tightened down from the sides/rear? Are there fasteners I can't see in the front?

Apologies - it might be slightly off topic for this thread but any clarification/links you have handy would be appreciated.

Best,
Evan
 
No worries - just like the b pillar and the channel over the door, the front has a piece of fabric with a rope in it or similar product that slides in the channel. Ive found that a 3/8" rope works well. Skinnier and it will pop out of the channel. I believe trollhole's manufacturers use a foam filled piping of sorts. I found some at a local fabric shop that looks like it might work except for the fact that there isnt much fabric to sew it on to tge top. I would use the foam if i could find one that worked. Its a pain in the ass sewing the fabric around the rope

...via IH8MUD app
 
I'd use a light spray of 3M Super 77 to hold the fabric in place around the rope. If you use too much, it can gum things up, but it works great.


Something worth mentioning again... Make sure to oil your industrial machine frequently. 90% of the problems with the dozen 50 year old abused industrial machines at the school I went to were resolved with 10w30 motor oil.
 
Ant - for the collective knowledge of this excellent thread, I just ad a conversation with a Sailrite "Project Tech" to discuss fabric. A good guy who was helpful and knowledgeable. Net net, his top fabric recommendation for a top was Sunbrella SeaMark as it's highly UV resistant and 100% waterproof vs. extremely water "resistant" (like the poly coated Cordura fabric I had as a contender). I'm waiting to take delivery of the truck within the next 10 days to confirm whether or not I need to make a new top. Will be sure to post details (and pepper you with questions) if I tackle it.
 
The hole isn't an issue , I have more tools to make holes than repair them , lol . I like the design of the rivet tool that sets those hollow or solid rivets to hold the twist locks in place on fabrics - just wondered how well it actually works for the end-user . Considering using twist locks instead of Velcro to hold my tool / gear bags shut when stored in the trucks , projectiles in an accident just plain suck...
Sarge
 
finally got the measurements right!!! This is the perfect balance between not too tight and not too loose. This is using a material that has less than 5% stretch.

These measurements should work great with canvas too.
photo (3).JPG
photo (4).JPG
photo (7).JPG
 
I plan to re-post my new measurements for everyone... standby for some drawings.
 
Ant - looks great! I am about to place my order for the Seamark (100% waterproof Sunbrella) fabric to get started on mine. Can't wait to see your measurements/pattern for some guidance, even though the size for the 44 will be slightly different. Nice work!
 
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antFJ said:
No worries - just like the b pillar and the channel over the door, the front has a piece of fabric with a rope in it or similar product that slides in the channel. Ive found that a 3/8" rope works well. Skinnier and it will pop out of the channel. I believe trollhole's manufacturers use a foam filled piping of sorts. I found some at a local fabric shop that looks like it might work except for the fact that there isnt much fabric to sew it on to tge top. I would use the foam if i could find one that worked. Its a pain in the ass sewing the fabric around the rope

...via IH8MUD app
Click to expand...

Just an FYI- The piece that you are describing as a rope is known as a "welt" or "welting". They can be purchased as a premolded rubber that can simply be sewn in or you can buy the "rope" or welting which you insert between the fabric and sew around it. I recommend the rubber welt since it is easier to work with and will most likely last longer.
 
I dont know who's 45 that is but cppilot took the pictures, maybe he'll chime in

Ive tried searching for strong 3/8" welt but there isnt much to choose from. If you know of where to get this rubber welt please share.

Here is the rope I use, it isn't cheap rope

1396802878143.jpg
 
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I found some 3/8" clear PVC tubing I was thinking of using for the channels. Won't break down, water won't affect it, should hold its shape indefinitely. Just like this stuff: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Watts-3-8-in-x-10-ft-Clear-PVC-Tubing-SVIG10/202309818. Downside might be that in mounting the top, wouldn't be flexible enough to get the top on so the 3/8" rope might be a better call. Ant, when you finally install the completed top, I assume it's basically front to back: front channel, door-top channels, "B" pillar channels, back?
 
thenative1 said:
I found some 3/8" clear PVC tubing I was thinking of using for the channels. Won't break down, water won't affect it, should hold its shape indefinitely. Just like this stuff: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Watts-3-8-in-x-10-ft-Clear-PVC-Tubing-SVIG10/202309818. Downside might be that in mounting the top, wouldn't be flexible enough to get the top on so the 3/8" rope might be a better call. Ant, when you finally install the completed top, I assume it's basically front to back: front channel, door-top channels, "B" pillar channels, back?
Click to expand...


Those would work great if they were solid. Whatever you use it must be solid otherwise it will squeeze out of the channel when you pull the top tight.

And that's right - install the top front to back working from side to side
 
Ant's right. It's mine.
 
and here are the measurements.... Realize these aren't measurements of the panels from joint to joint, but the measurements for each individual panel prior to sewing them together. I sew them together double stitched on a 3/8'' seam. (so a 28'' panel will be 27 5/8" after I sew it in place) If you wanted to have some extra material you could just add that on to the existing dimensions

The rear panel must be made from one piece of fabric
The side panel may be made from one or three pieces of fabric

Soft Top Measurements.jpg
 

Attachments

  • Soft Top Measurements.pdf
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Thanks for the pattern antFJ, you're making me want to buy a better sewing machine and build a frame.

I've bought that rubber welt from a local boat shop that made tops. It was easy to work with, and I was even able to sew it on with a Kenmore home machine.
 
bikersmurf said:
Thanks for the pattern antFJ, you're making me want to buy a better sewing machine and build a frame.

I've bought that rubber welt from a local boat shop that made tops. It was easy to work with, and I was even able to sew it on with a Kenmore home machine.
Click to expand...
Here is a pic of what I use. I picked it up from tempe sales which is a local fabric shop.

 
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