Hey Ian... are you running an aftermarket turbo? How hot did your egts get during your 0-60 runs? (Mine got up to 1100f near the end of each of my 3 runs. Seems like that might be a little hot but maybe it's normal?)
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Hey Ian... are you running an aftermarket turbo? How hot did your egts get during your 0-60 runs? (Mine got up to 1100f near the end of each of my 3 runs. Seems like that might be a little hot but maybe it's normal?)
I've got a Gturbo sitting on my workbench, but I'm still on the stock turbo for now. EGT's hit about 950F by 100km/h, if I hold into it till 120 it will hit 1100-1150, ambient temps are only about 5-10C right now, so those will rise as warmer weather arrives.
Are you running around 15psi of boost then? (I'm only running 18psi right now)
I'm running 18psi right now, down from 22. It's a long story, lol. My truck pushing 120km/h on the highway is pretty well running on the wastegate at 18psi.
The Gturbo will go in before summer as we're doing another road trip and I want it in place for that.
- Thread starter
- #205
12 seconds would feel great to achieve.
I haven't been fudging with it much lately as work is still busy as hell, and I've been doing the seasonal trail bike rebuild in the last couple evenings. Maybe next week I will spend some more time tuning. For now, the short drives seem to be doing well, no leaks that I've noticed, no problems to report.
Not using the truck as a daily driver is great to have freedom for some projects, but it also means limited seat time to assess changes.
I haven't been fudging with it much lately as work is still busy as hell, and I've been doing the seasonal trail bike rebuild in the last couple evenings. Maybe next week I will spend some more time tuning. For now, the short drives seem to be doing well, no leaks that I've noticed, no problems to report.
Not using the truck as a daily driver is great to have freedom for some projects, but it also means limited seat time to assess changes.
I was able to achieve a great deal of improvement through my messing with the boost compensator, I haven't touched the main fuel screw at all. Better off-idle response, faster spool up (likely solely as a result of the extra fuel off-idle), and a complete change in the fuel curve as boost builds. Driveability was the biggest improvement, it's so much nicer to drive now.
- Thread starter
- #207
Finally got around to making some adjustments and testing. The diaphragm is marked with the + at the longest ramp, with the - mark showing the point at which the fuel pin would start right at the transition from minimum and start ramping as boost is applied. With the nub ground off, its not that bad to remove, i can even get the rod out without taking it off the diaphragm.
Having new screws on the cover, and a thin layer of copper coat, made removing it super easy, fingers most of the way.
The mark to the right of the gouge is where I've been running it the last couple weeks/couple hundred kilometres. I rotated the rod to the groove for this next round of testing to what I think is known to be the most aggressive profile.
After a bit of driving I think it will be rotated to what I marked as the minimal and test that. I'm wondering if the profile there would actually allow for the greatest range of fueling over the boost span. At the "aggressive" setting, I'm only using half of the ramp, meaning that the difference between minimum and maximum is less dramatic. If my current boost level uses more percentage of ramp, maybe I can get better bang for buck?
I also added 1/4 turn to the max fuel screw. Adjusted idle to 750rpm when warm. Smoke screw is at the most aggressive. Then, went for a drive and actually used an app.
So that's awesome. Butt dyno confirms it too. Feels better off the line, even with the stock gears and 35s. There is visible smoke now when matted, but not too terribly obnoxious, and none when idling warm, some white haze when cold.
I've taken the liberty of recording some throttle blips while parked to see the smoke I refer to. You get to hear the exhaust too, I'm pretty happy with the sound actually.
At 110kph/2200rpm, I'm seeing 800f, +/- 25f. From dead stop, a WOT run up to 125kph got me up to 1250f when I let off. I don't see it going much higher. The steep hill was no problem keeping highway pace. The long hill held 115kph without going over 1050f.
I will drive it like this for a couple weeks, see how i like it, then might try the other end of aneroid adjustability to see what that's like.
Having new screws on the cover, and a thin layer of copper coat, made removing it super easy, fingers most of the way.
The mark to the right of the gouge is where I've been running it the last couple weeks/couple hundred kilometres. I rotated the rod to the groove for this next round of testing to what I think is known to be the most aggressive profile.
After a bit of driving I think it will be rotated to what I marked as the minimal and test that. I'm wondering if the profile there would actually allow for the greatest range of fueling over the boost span. At the "aggressive" setting, I'm only using half of the ramp, meaning that the difference between minimum and maximum is less dramatic. If my current boost level uses more percentage of ramp, maybe I can get better bang for buck?
I also added 1/4 turn to the max fuel screw. Adjusted idle to 750rpm when warm. Smoke screw is at the most aggressive. Then, went for a drive and actually used an app.
So that's awesome. Butt dyno confirms it too. Feels better off the line, even with the stock gears and 35s. There is visible smoke now when matted, but not too terribly obnoxious, and none when idling warm, some white haze when cold.
I've taken the liberty of recording some throttle blips while parked to see the smoke I refer to. You get to hear the exhaust too, I'm pretty happy with the sound actually.
At 110kph/2200rpm, I'm seeing 800f, +/- 25f. From dead stop, a WOT run up to 125kph got me up to 1250f when I let off. I don't see it going much higher. The steep hill was no problem keeping highway pace. The long hill held 115kph without going over 1050f.
I will drive it like this for a couple weeks, see how i like it, then might try the other end of aneroid adjustability to see what that's like.
mudgudgeon
Resident galah
Sounds good
Was the app easy to use?
I downloaded it, haven't played with it yet.
Was the app easy to use?
I downloaded it, haven't played with it yet.
You didn't do a "before" run with the app to see how much improvement you got? You were talking 20sec to 60mph previously, knocking 7-8 seconds off that is HUGE! Must be a lot more fun to drive like this!
What app is that, I must have missed if it was mentioned before.
EDIT: I see that's for Android on the other thread, need to find an IOS version...
What app is that, I must have missed if it was mentioned before.
EDIT: I see that's for Android on the other thread, need to find an IOS version...
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- Thread starter
- #211
Before runs were done with a different app that I wasn't happy with, it kept wanting to turn on gps and show ads even when I wasn't trying to use it.
Before I started all this, my best time on that one was 25 seconds. Then, using the stopwatch on my phone, about 21 seconds was most recent. Then I saw the diesel drag challenge thread over in the oil burning forum and grabbed that app. But yeah, to go through this work and end up with a vehicle that's literally TWICE as fast is a good feeling.
Works pretty simply. Open app, let it find as many gps satellites as possible, come to a stop, hit start, then punch it.
Massive difference in how it feels to drive, I'm really surprised and quite happy with the result now.
I'm also not worrying so much anymore about how the engines doing and focusing on any noises. It's driving around, not dripping anything, feels fine. I'm getting more used to the clackity diesel noise and starting to really like it, I think it's just finding its voice.
Before I started all this, my best time on that one was 25 seconds. Then, using the stopwatch on my phone, about 21 seconds was most recent. Then I saw the diesel drag challenge thread over in the oil burning forum and grabbed that app. But yeah, to go through this work and end up with a vehicle that's literally TWICE as fast is a good feeling.
Works pretty simply. Open app, let it find as many gps satellites as possible, come to a stop, hit start, then punch it.
Massive difference in how it feels to drive, I'm really surprised and quite happy with the result now.
I'm also not worrying so much anymore about how the engines doing and focusing on any noises. It's driving around, not dripping anything, feels fine. I'm getting more used to the clackity diesel noise and starting to really like it, I think it's just finding its voice.
Bludozer
SILVER Star
Finally got around to making some adjustments and testing. The diaphragm is marked with the + at the longest ramp, with the - mark showing the point at which the fuel pin would start right at the transition from minimum and start ramping as boost is applied. With the nub ground off, its not that bad to remove, i can even get the rod out without taking it off the diaphragm.
Having new screws on the cover, and a thin layer of copper coat, made removing it super easy, fingers most of the way.
The mark to the right of the gouge is where I've been running it the last couple weeks/couple hundred kilometres. I rotated the rod to the groove for this next round of testing to what I think is known to be the most aggressive profile.
After a bit of driving I think it will be rotated to what I marked as the minimal and test that. I'm wondering if the profile there would actually allow for the greatest range of fueling over the boost span. At the "aggressive" setting, I'm only using half of the ramp, meaning that the difference between minimum and maximum is less dramatic. If my current boost level uses more percentage of ramp, maybe I can get better bang for buck?
I also added 1/4 turn to the max fuel screw. Adjusted idle to 750rpm when warm. Smoke screw is at the most aggressive. Then, went for a drive and actually used an app.
So that's awesome. Butt dyno confirms it too. Feels better off the line, even with the stock gears and 35s. There is visible smoke now when matted, but not too terribly obnoxious, and none when idling warm, some white haze when cold.
I've taken the liberty of recording some throttle blips while parked to see the smoke I refer to. You get to hear the exhaust too, I'm pretty happy with the sound actually.
At 110kph/2200rpm, I'm seeing 800f, +/- 25f. From dead stop, a WOT run up to 125kph got me up to 1250f when I let off. I don't see it going much higher. The steep hill was no problem keeping highway pace. The long hill held 115kph without going over 1050f.
I will drive it like this for a couple weeks, see how i like it, then might try the other end of aneroid adjustability to see what that's like.
Damn that sounds f*cking sweet. I need some toyota diesel in my life.
- Thread starter
- #213
Small update: I've refueled.
80% very not gentle city driving
10% normal highway driving
10% aggressive highway speed runs and testing
That gives me 16L/100km, or roughly 14.7mpg (according to Google conversion)
My last tank from similar driving was about 18L/100km or thereabouts. I don't find city driving to be a terribly accurate assessment of mileage, too many variables, so we shall see if that was improved next time i spend a few hours on the highway.
Driveability is definitely much improved though. Me likey.
80% very not gentle city driving
10% normal highway driving
10% aggressive highway speed runs and testing
That gives me 16L/100km, or roughly 14.7mpg (according to Google conversion)
My last tank from similar driving was about 18L/100km or thereabouts. I don't find city driving to be a terribly accurate assessment of mileage, too many variables, so we shall see if that was improved next time i spend a few hours on the highway.
Driveability is definitely much improved though. Me likey.
If you're seeing an improvement while testing/tuning, you should see a further improvement when you finalize your tuning and drive normally. I found that with more power available, you need to use less pedal to achieve "normal" performance, and fuel economy improves.
- Thread starter
- #215
Built an attic rack, for soft goods only of course. I shamelessly stole the bracket idea from @jcardona1 as closely as I could because I thought it looked way more sturdy and clean than the sketchy tye-raps or hose clamps from the low cost attic thread. Weaved in bungees will be used to hold the towels, hoodies, blankets, pillows etc in place.
About $40 in total.
About $40 in total.
- Thread starter
- #216
And, I finally got my first Blackstone Labs oil report back today. This was what came out after I completed all the engine work last month. Seems everything looks good and healthy after 7000kms and 12 months on Rotella T5 semi-dino 15w40. That's nice to hear.
5w40 full synth went in this time, so we will see how it looks like next time it gets drained.
5w40 full synth went in this time, so we will see how it looks like next time it gets drained.
- Thread starter
- #217
Transmission finally drained/filled. Power steering finally flushed. Tires finally rotated. All other fluids checked and not needing top up.
Also did 1/2 of an auxiliary electrical stuff install. Wanted some of it to be running sooner than later, hence the hokey job. Basics are there though, Bussman fuse/relay box, OTRATTW switches, Blue Sea dual USB charging outlet in the center console. Switches are independently lit and wired so that they only work when key is turned on, but circuit is ready for a bypass switch. Mounting plate, more switches, second USB outlet still to do later.
Also did 1/2 of an auxiliary electrical stuff install. Wanted some of it to be running sooner than later, hence the hokey job. Basics are there though, Bussman fuse/relay box, OTRATTW switches, Blue Sea dual USB charging outlet in the center console. Switches are independently lit and wired so that they only work when key is turned on, but circuit is ready for a bypass switch. Mounting plate, more switches, second USB outlet still to do later.
- Thread starter
- #218
Finished up a nice family road trip loop taking the southern route down through Banff, Shuswaps, Okanagan, Hope, Vancouver onto the island for a few days, then back the more northern route through Pemberton, Kamloops, Jasper. 6 nights in a tent, 5 nights in a cabin and one night in an air conditioned hotel. Was a tremendous bit of fun where we saw and did a lot along the way.
However, this isn't a travel blog, it's a tech forum, so let's start with some numbers.
Odometer: 3098km (1925mi)
Adjusted Odo: 3252.9km (2021.3mi)
Fuel: 446.98L (118gal)
Average Economy: 13.74L/100km (17.11mpg)
Best Economy: 12.53L/100km (18.77mpg)
Worst Economy: 15.02L/100km (15.66mpg)
Highest Elevation: 1728m (5669ft)
Cheapest Diesel: $1.259/L ($4.99/gal)
Costliest Diesel: $1.459/L ($5.52/gal)
-Odometer reading is adjusted because GPS checked multiple times over the last year or so tells me the speedo is 5% under. Thanks to that, I have noticed my cruise control can be set to a maximum of about speedo 114kph, which correlates to a real world 120kph on the dot.
-Mileagewise, I'm happy. Could be a bit better with some tuning, but I'll live with it.
-Temperaturewise, even in 36c weather, on mountain roads, with the AC firing, no movement on the water temperature needle at all, so I'm happy with the engine cooling system. Transmission is a different story, explored further below.
-Driveabilitywise, pretty good, but I have a shudder to explore, see below.
-Comfortwise, I quite badly need new foam in my seat.
-Storagewise, rear attic rack is a godsend and one of the best $40 I ever spent.
The longest sustained climb of the drive was from Kelowna to Pennask summit, which is a 1200m+ climb to 1728m over a little less than 30km. It is a nonstop climb at 6.5% or so that ends up lasting a long bloody time. I was holding 80-90kph fairly steadily without allowing the EGTs to climb, but if I whomped on it, I could still accelerate, but would definitely hit 1300f in a hurry, so I was taking it easy. I think I could use a little less fueling to help reduce that a bit, or intercooler would help that out.
The transmission was my issue on the big climb. Once my speed was under 90kph (or whatever the magic number actually is) and the torque converter is no longer locked up, trans temperature climbed like crazy. At about 245f I pulled off the skinny pedal, and ended up going the rest of the way in the slow lane with the big trucks, at like 50kph. That kept the temp from climbing, but still not something I'm happy with. That was also the only hill that gave me any real trouble, others I was able to keep the speed up, therefore trans temp was OK.
Still, some sort of additional transmission cooler is definitely on the want list.
Steering wheel started to develop a bit of a wobble only noticeable between 80-100kph, and only when travelling around slight corners. Straight driving, or sharper corners had no issues. A quick check and I noticed a bit of play at the 12+6 position of my front right wheel, so at this point I'm thinking trunion bearings may be worn already? That or the old pre-load spacer wasn't quite perfect, and when I replaced everything two years ago, it has just taken until now for the problem to show itself.
Lastly, when I'm loaded up, especially after the rear bumper, full size spare, and all gear in the back, I'm sagging so my front end is sitting even higher than it is in normal day to day operation. I suspect that's causing my front driveshaft angle to be even worse and introduces even more vibration. I told my wife I need to build a front bumper to balance things out. I don't see that project getting touched until fall at the earliest.
All in all, good trip, happy with the truck. Change a couple things and move on.
However, this isn't a travel blog, it's a tech forum, so let's start with some numbers.
Odometer: 3098km (1925mi)
Adjusted Odo: 3252.9km (2021.3mi)
Fuel: 446.98L (118gal)
Average Economy: 13.74L/100km (17.11mpg)
Best Economy: 12.53L/100km (18.77mpg)
Worst Economy: 15.02L/100km (15.66mpg)
Highest Elevation: 1728m (5669ft)
Cheapest Diesel: $1.259/L ($4.99/gal)
Costliest Diesel: $1.459/L ($5.52/gal)
-Odometer reading is adjusted because GPS checked multiple times over the last year or so tells me the speedo is 5% under. Thanks to that, I have noticed my cruise control can be set to a maximum of about speedo 114kph, which correlates to a real world 120kph on the dot.
-Mileagewise, I'm happy. Could be a bit better with some tuning, but I'll live with it.
-Temperaturewise, even in 36c weather, on mountain roads, with the AC firing, no movement on the water temperature needle at all, so I'm happy with the engine cooling system. Transmission is a different story, explored further below.
-Driveabilitywise, pretty good, but I have a shudder to explore, see below.
-Comfortwise, I quite badly need new foam in my seat.
-Storagewise, rear attic rack is a godsend and one of the best $40 I ever spent.
The longest sustained climb of the drive was from Kelowna to Pennask summit, which is a 1200m+ climb to 1728m over a little less than 30km. It is a nonstop climb at 6.5% or so that ends up lasting a long bloody time. I was holding 80-90kph fairly steadily without allowing the EGTs to climb, but if I whomped on it, I could still accelerate, but would definitely hit 1300f in a hurry, so I was taking it easy. I think I could use a little less fueling to help reduce that a bit, or intercooler would help that out.
The transmission was my issue on the big climb. Once my speed was under 90kph (or whatever the magic number actually is) and the torque converter is no longer locked up, trans temperature climbed like crazy. At about 245f I pulled off the skinny pedal, and ended up going the rest of the way in the slow lane with the big trucks, at like 50kph. That kept the temp from climbing, but still not something I'm happy with. That was also the only hill that gave me any real trouble, others I was able to keep the speed up, therefore trans temp was OK.
Still, some sort of additional transmission cooler is definitely on the want list.
Steering wheel started to develop a bit of a wobble only noticeable between 80-100kph, and only when travelling around slight corners. Straight driving, or sharper corners had no issues. A quick check and I noticed a bit of play at the 12+6 position of my front right wheel, so at this point I'm thinking trunion bearings may be worn already? That or the old pre-load spacer wasn't quite perfect, and when I replaced everything two years ago, it has just taken until now for the problem to show itself.
Lastly, when I'm loaded up, especially after the rear bumper, full size spare, and all gear in the back, I'm sagging so my front end is sitting even higher than it is in normal day to day operation. I suspect that's causing my front driveshaft angle to be even worse and introduces even more vibration. I told my wife I need to build a front bumper to balance things out. I don't see that project getting touched until fall at the earliest.
All in all, good trip, happy with the truck. Change a couple things and move on.
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When you were climbing, were you in 3rd, or O/D (4th)? The torque convertor locks at about 85km/h, when it's not locked the temps soar. Dropping it out of O/D brings the revs up and is reported to help keep the temps down.
12-6 wheel play is usually wheel bearings, you may just need to retorque them.
12-6 wheel play is usually wheel bearings, you may just need to retorque them.
- Thread starter
- #220
I tried with both od on and off, didn't seem to make any difference at all because while pulling up a hill at 80 or so, it didn't want to shift up and use od anyway. If I was on a hill that it could handle, going up in od would be just fine, as I would be fast enough for the tc to lock anyway. Regardless, I think a tranny cooler will be good cheap insurance.
Hopefully the wheel play is something that simple. In all honesty though, with as busy as the summer is, I probably won't tackle it for a couple weeks.
Hopefully the wheel play is something that simple. In all honesty though, with as busy as the summer is, I probably won't tackle it for a couple weeks.
