- Thread starter
- #181
The plot thickens.
After some time wrestling with a new pair of vice grips I thought might work, but didn't, I relented and just removed everything. Actually only took around 45 minutes to get everything off, and in retrospect wasn't that difficult of a job. That accomplished, I was able to work on the bolt head at a better angle. At this point we open with-
Concern #1: Once I opened the cap, everything was oily, and immediately worried me as none of the other pictures I've seen of these things removed have been like that. I wiped some off and paint marked the diaphragm so I'd know where my journey began at, then yanked the sucker out. Pictured below is what it looked like when I mean oily. That oil was on top and below the diaphragm, and basically FILLED the hole where the aneroid sits.
A while back the boost line popped off the little white filter doodad. It made a fairly dirty spot where it happened, but I didn't really pay it any mind. I figured the spot was left over grime and oil in the filter/hoses from when the PCV was still set up to dump any blowby back into the intake post-filter. I put the hose back on, helped secure it with a tye-rap and went on my merry way. I'm hoping that years of being driven with oil blowing into the boost line would fill this cavity up like that, or that it is just some weird thing that a Japanese mechanic did to it. More worringly, is it a symptom of something much worse, a failure in the pump that needs to be rectified immediately? I've cleaned the bore out with Q-tips, and will investigate further.
Something that never occurred to me, was that when that line popped off, I felt NO DIFFERENCE WHATSOEVER from a driveability standpoint. In hindsight, now understanding somewhat how this thing works, I probably should have really noticed something was up. This lack of awareness becomes more important as we turn our attention towards-
Concern #2: I cleaned everything off and took a look at the aneroid rod, thinking that regardless the situation, I'd still like to just get some baseline measurements before I call it a night. The rod appears to be from the aftermarket, at least compared to other photos I've seen in my research. I will be posting a couple of decent photos of it to the extremely informative The Official 1HD-T/FT Fuel Pump Mod Tuning Thread
The groove worn isn't terribly long, but appears somewhat deep causing me to doubt this is an overly strong or hardened metal that was used in this product. Connecting my Custom Leakage Pipe Test Bench™ to the boost line from the intake, and popped the key forward into acessory mode.
was kind enough to monitor the boost gauge for me, so I could have a comparison to my bike pump and the new regulator gauge. Everything seems in order, and I believe I can trust the boost gauge implicitly. A few brush strokes from a paint marker, reinsertion, tested twice in slightly different locations and I have a baseline to work with. Running my test, I noticed air leaking from one of the BACS/SICS controller, the one that connects to the bottom side of the pump housing. I ignored it and just plugged the hose to prevent it. Then i was able to actually make pressure, if only short term.
The horizontal line is where the pin drops to naturally, then you can see two verticals: one directly under the normal worn groove, the other 45 degrees or so to the left. The vertical marks were not made by "boost" pressure at all, but rather from the preload in the spring. Regardless the amount of "boost" applied by the testing unit, no actual movement of the aneroid pin is seen. I also did a third test where I adjusted the spring preload and cam to not move the pin at all, inserted pin 45 to the righ and you can just see the leftmost edge of that horizontal line in this picture. After pressuring up, no movement whatsoever.
Now remember the air coming out of the BACS/SICS hose? It clicked that it shouldn't be doing that at all. I then inspected the diaphragm carefully and found...
This diaphragm does nothing for me. The lack of power I've been feeling all this time was a complete and utter lack of increased fueling when the turbo does it's magic. I am assuming that it had failed in such a way primarily due to the oil contamination.
This is something that has been an issue the entire time I've owned the truck.
Moving forward, I will endeavor to acquire a new diaphragm tomorrow. If it can't be had by a diesel shop in the city (I hope they're all mostly the same for any VE pump and is an available thing), I have already ordered a replacement 22542-54260 from Partsouq. I hope the former is achievable, otherwise it's a 3-7 day wait. For $25, I'll happily have a spare around.
I am trying to be positive that the oil situation is not a major concern, and that I will be able to install a new diaphragm and test the "boost" operation. If it all looks happy, then I can hopefully enjoy a suddenly much more responsive vehicle, with some effort made to tune the beast.
- unpaid commercial -
I want to make a shout out to the fine folks at Edmonton Nut and Bolt for giving me 4 new replacement screws 100% free of charge, due to the extreme line up of people during the lunch hour and the worker not having the desire to do up the paperwork and take payment for like $0.30.
After some time wrestling with a new pair of vice grips I thought might work, but didn't, I relented and just removed everything. Actually only took around 45 minutes to get everything off, and in retrospect wasn't that difficult of a job. That accomplished, I was able to work on the bolt head at a better angle. At this point we open with-
Concern #1: Once I opened the cap, everything was oily, and immediately worried me as none of the other pictures I've seen of these things removed have been like that. I wiped some off and paint marked the diaphragm so I'd know where my journey began at, then yanked the sucker out. Pictured below is what it looked like when I mean oily. That oil was on top and below the diaphragm, and basically FILLED the hole where the aneroid sits.
A while back the boost line popped off the little white filter doodad. It made a fairly dirty spot where it happened, but I didn't really pay it any mind. I figured the spot was left over grime and oil in the filter/hoses from when the PCV was still set up to dump any blowby back into the intake post-filter. I put the hose back on, helped secure it with a tye-rap and went on my merry way. I'm hoping that years of being driven with oil blowing into the boost line would fill this cavity up like that, or that it is just some weird thing that a Japanese mechanic did to it. More worringly, is it a symptom of something much worse, a failure in the pump that needs to be rectified immediately? I've cleaned the bore out with Q-tips, and will investigate further.
Something that never occurred to me, was that when that line popped off, I felt NO DIFFERENCE WHATSOEVER from a driveability standpoint. In hindsight, now understanding somewhat how this thing works, I probably should have really noticed something was up. This lack of awareness becomes more important as we turn our attention towards-
Concern #2: I cleaned everything off and took a look at the aneroid rod, thinking that regardless the situation, I'd still like to just get some baseline measurements before I call it a night. The rod appears to be from the aftermarket, at least compared to other photos I've seen in my research. I will be posting a couple of decent photos of it to the extremely informative The Official 1HD-T/FT Fuel Pump Mod Tuning Thread
The groove worn isn't terribly long, but appears somewhat deep causing me to doubt this is an overly strong or hardened metal that was used in this product. Connecting my Custom Leakage Pipe Test Bench™ to the boost line from the intake, and popped the key forward into acessory mode.
was kind enough to monitor the boost gauge for me, so I could have a comparison to my bike pump and the new regulator gauge. Everything seems in order, and I believe I can trust the boost gauge implicitly. A few brush strokes from a paint marker, reinsertion, tested twice in slightly different locations and I have a baseline to work with. Running my test, I noticed air leaking from one of the BACS/SICS controller, the one that connects to the bottom side of the pump housing. I ignored it and just plugged the hose to prevent it. Then i was able to actually make pressure, if only short term.
The horizontal line is where the pin drops to naturally, then you can see two verticals: one directly under the normal worn groove, the other 45 degrees or so to the left. The vertical marks were not made by "boost" pressure at all, but rather from the preload in the spring. Regardless the amount of "boost" applied by the testing unit, no actual movement of the aneroid pin is seen. I also did a third test where I adjusted the spring preload and cam to not move the pin at all, inserted pin 45 to the righ and you can just see the leftmost edge of that horizontal line in this picture. After pressuring up, no movement whatsoever.
Now remember the air coming out of the BACS/SICS hose? It clicked that it shouldn't be doing that at all. I then inspected the diaphragm carefully and found...
This diaphragm does nothing for me. The lack of power I've been feeling all this time was a complete and utter lack of increased fueling when the turbo does it's magic. I am assuming that it had failed in such a way primarily due to the oil contamination.
This is something that has been an issue the entire time I've owned the truck.
Moving forward, I will endeavor to acquire a new diaphragm tomorrow. If it can't be had by a diesel shop in the city (I hope they're all mostly the same for any VE pump and is an available thing), I have already ordered a replacement 22542-54260 from Partsouq. I hope the former is achievable, otherwise it's a 3-7 day wait. For $25, I'll happily have a spare around.
I am trying to be positive that the oil situation is not a major concern, and that I will be able to install a new diaphragm and test the "boost" operation. If it all looks happy, then I can hopefully enjoy a suddenly much more responsive vehicle, with some effort made to tune the beast.
- unpaid commercial -
I want to make a shout out to the fine folks at Edmonton Nut and Bolt for giving me 4 new replacement screws 100% free of charge, due to the extreme line up of people during the lunch hour and the worker not having the desire to do up the paperwork and take payment for like $0.30.
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