Mag's poor man 1HD-FTE dream. (11 Viewers)

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Nice work. You already have a 8mm line for the return. Just use the original gas supply line as your return with the diesel. Worked good on my swap.
I'm taking notes^^ I'm about 1.5 hrs north of you btw.

Mag how's it coming?
 
I'm currently still collecting parts, the 1hz oil pickup I ordered on eBay had some janky repair, reached out to @OGBeno and he got me the correct part numbers.
1HZ Oil Pan: 12101-17100
1HZ Oil Pickup: 15104-17060
Ordered : 17861-17030 - Connector, Intake. This is for the EGR Delete, I also got my EGR block off plates in from HD-Auto.

The bag of worms I'm running into, No matter what the Engine/Trans Harness is going to be setup for a manual, and then I can integrate an aftermarket controller or try and wire in the TCU myself. The 4speed is pretty nice, but I do wish there was another gear. On the highway 65-70 is pretty much 2500 RPM because the tires that are on the HDJ100. 35's will help that a lot though getting the RPMS down.

OR, do I just bite the super expensive bullet of swapping in a H152F, Probably another 7-10k that wasn't in the budget.

Another problem I personally have, is that my 80 was my daily, so now I'm stuck in the HDJ100 until I have all the parts. I have a remote WFH job, so it wouldn't be a huge deal to be without a ride for a few weeks, but if I started the swap now I'd probably be walking for a few months. LOL.

That's where I'm at currently, waiting to get the harness, and other parts in unfortunately.
 
Awesome work, looks like you’re cruising along. I’ve seen multiple recommendations for someone known as thraslux on the FB swap page for harnesses. Is this the same person as mick?

Also, I did a brief search on partsouq and it wasn’t looking like they had HDJ80 oil pans in stock. Where would you recommend sourcing one?

You’re getting me very exited to do this same procedure, can’t wait to see your results!
I believe I finally settled on a 70 series solid axle oil pan. Those tend to be available but lack the oil level sensor bung on the side of the pan. I eventually compromised and just went with the 70 series pan rather than waiting for a good used one from an 80 series to come along.
 
Heres the pan and part number I got from partsouq, has the provision for an oil level sensor.
1000006853.webp
1000006854.webp
1000006855.webp
 
On the oil pan, I’ve been going back and forth with Dave at Japan4x4 and he initially recommended an hdj79 oil pan and was able to source it. I wasn’t 100% confident it would fit, and found a post on the FB FTE swap page where a good bloke recommended a 1HZ oil pan with p/n 12101-17170. Interesting you found an HZ oil pan with a different number. I get turned around with all these part numbers sometimes o_O

Man, the cost is my concern with going manual too, though I really love a manual.

Totally get waiting till you have all the parts to minimize downtime, I’d hate to have something serious come up and be without wheels.
 
On the oil pan, I’ve been going back and forth with Dave at Japan4x4 and he initially recommended an hdj79 oil pan and was able to source it. I wasn’t 100% confident it would fit, and found a post on the FB FTE swap page where a good bloke recommended a 1HZ oil pan with p/n 12101-17170. Interesting you found an HZ oil pan with a different number. I get turned around with all these part numbers sometimes o_O

Man, the cost is my concern with going manual too, though I really love a manual.

Totally get waiting till you have all the parts to minimize downtime, I’d hate to have something serious come up and be without wheels.
Im sure itll be every bit of 10k for a manual swap once you get all the bull**** you need to make it happen. Im on the fence. Lol.
 
Im running a HZJ76 oil pan in my 80. Stock bump stops and arms. With the coils removed the pan clears the axle/tie rod while sitting on the bumps in the garage. In real world use my tie rod and pan have kissed each other and scraped the paint off. Id try to source an 80 pan if you're running factory bumps. It may clear with factory bumps if the axle is pushed forward an inch.
 
Im sure itll be every bit of 10k for a manual swap once you get all the bull**** you need to make it happen. Im on the fence. Lol.
I'd have to check my excel but I think I'm at about $8K on my manual swap with all new OEM everything I could buy. Pre-tariff H152 though, don't know if that price has gone up. If I did it on the cheap, digging through eBay Australia and the mud classifieds, I bet I could have shaved off a couple thousand.
 
These engines are vastly different with a manual vs auto trans. Especially when you are running a performance clutch for the manual.

Getting rid of Full time 4wd is also a great way to free up some hp and improve mpg. Just lock the hubs when you need 4wd and shift it from 2wd to 4wd. If you live in a cold winter state and want the 4wd all winter without having to lock and unlock clod sticky free wheeling hubs, just lock them in November and unlock in March/April, shift into 4wd as needed over the winter.

🤷‍♂️

Cheers
 
To make it even more expensive for you, the HF1A is still available new and is what Toyota ran behind the H152.

Cheers
 
Well, I went ahead and opened the check book. Should have a H152 Kit here in a few weeks, what started out as a somewhat poor mans project, has swiftly become a project that's made me entirely poor, pretty sure the wife will lock down all finances after the swap is complete. (Just kidding she's been super supportive).

Mick has also got my harness 99% complete, he's just finishing up the manual gear box harness now.

A few reasons I went this route,

#1 Harness woes - Getting a plug and play harness for an auto is pretty hard to come by, and while I probably could **** around with wiring and eventually get it right, I REALLY wasn't looking forward to it.

#2 4-Speed Auto "Feel" - The more I drove the HDJ100, the more I realized I really wasn't a fan of the 4speed, it shifted fine, and was stout and never slipped, but it really did remind me of what it felt like driving a FedEx box truck, or some military trucks back in my medic days. It seemed like first gear was too high, and the final drive/gear was too low. I would find myself "winding out" the FTE to pass, or keep with traffic sometimes. I really wanted another gear.

#3 Compushift Bull**** - When getting someone to build you a harness, they don't want to **** with TCU's, at all. So they all point to aftermarket transmission controllers. Once again I'm sure I would've figured it out, but then I run the risk of screwing up the 4speed auto, and going manual anyway. Not only that, but there wasn't a lot of information on compushift online, what you did find was old outdated you tube videos, and hardly anything specific. There's a few post on mud talking about how it's a pain as well.

#4 Cool Factor - I have a sickness and it's me day dreaming about being one of the probably 2-5% that have a LHD 1hdfte-h152 swapped 80 in the states, slamming gears while listening to my glorified diesel tractor motor sing it's tune through the Rockies.

With that, it's expensive, I went with @mudandrock, he has a pretty good kit on his site, but give him a call or send an email. He got back to me in a day or so.
H152KIT
 
@Mag71k5 Man, I was just eyeing (drooling over) the that same kit from Back 40 two days ago. Super sweet and looks like everything is there.

That harness from Mick looks SORTED. I'll be curious to hear what the turnaround time is from your ordering to getting the harness. I haven't started that process yet because I've been waiting for my heart, brain and checking account to battle it out over the A750F vs H152 route.

EDIT - Do you think you'll be able to use your original driveshafts or source different length shafts?
 
@Mag71k5 Man, I was just eyeing (drooling over) the that same kit from Back 40 two days ago. Super sweet and looks like everything is there.

That harness from Mick looks SORTED. I'll be curious to hear what the turnaround time is from your ordering to getting the harness. I haven't started that process yet because I've been waiting for my heart, brain and checking account to battle it out over the A750F vs H152 route.

EDIT - Do you think you'll be able to use your original driveshafts or source different length shafts?
With a H15X, it's a shorter trans and will be further forward. So you need a shorter front shaft and a longer rear shaft. Custom driveshaft from a shop like Tom Woods is probably the easiest but OEM are still available new as well - that's what I bought from Partsouq.

Also you'll have to figure out a way to move the crossmember forward. There are a few methods out there but I decided to go with an OTC crossmember:

OTC also makes a trans tunnel plate that makes cutting up the auto tunnel easier:
 
With a H15X, it's a shorter trans and will be further forward. So you need a shorter front shaft and a longer rear shaft. Custom driveshaft from a shop like Tom Woods is probably the easiest but OEM are still available new as well - that's what I bought from Partsouq.

Also you'll have to figure out a way to move the crossmember forward. There are a few methods out there but I decided to go with an OTC crossmember:

OTC also makes a trans tunnel plate that makes cutting up the auto tunnel easier:
I wasn't sure how I was going to handle the transmission cross member placement, this is perfect.

Thanks!!
 
With a H15X, it's a shorter trans and will be further forward. So you need a shorter front shaft and a longer rear shaft. Custom driveshaft from a shop like Tom Woods is probably the easiest but OEM are still available new as well - that's what I bought from Partsouq.
Hey Ikarus, can you do me a favor and measure yoke to yoke, from the transfercase to the front and rear differentials?

That way if I want to go ahead and order from tom woods ill have some measurements to go off of.

Thanks!
 
Man how did I miss your build thread! Maybe I need to come back over and check out that harness!
 

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