1HD-FTE Conversion - Creating the Perfect 80 Series (4 Viewers)

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Pretty sure baldur's control systems DSL1 could run the engine and maybe better then the factory one. Although it would need quite alot of tuning to get it going he does not have a base tune for this engine. He can remote in and help you tune for a fee. Also has a transmission controller if you can't get the stock one working. might simplify wiring a little too. i would ask him about it if i was going to do an FTE swap.
 
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@SteelHunterFJ80 I'm still going back and forth on it. I don't have a manual trans vehicle any more and miss it. Would be super cool in an 80.

Also, a year ago when I thought I was going to be a reasonable person and leave the engine in the 80 as it is, I regeared the diffs to 4.56's. Made a nice difference with the heavy tires, but i fear swapping in a h151f (not to mention sourcing it) would spin the FTE quite a bit on the highway when hauling some a$$.

I suppose i could always overdrive the hi-range in the t-case, re-gear the diffs again, or simply get larger tires.

I threw this together a while back when kicking around some ideas:

View attachment 3954966

Curious, what diff ratios are you running and tire size? What's your engine speed when clocking 80 mph down the highway?

I also wonder if 2630rpm in 5th @ 80 mph with the auto 5 speed is a bit overboard since the FTE should be into the torque by say, 2k rpm.

I'm on 4.10 gearing with just under 33s and running 75 mph at about 2900 rpm with an h151 and the FT. Although next month I'm going up to true 35s.

I can't say this enough but there is zero chance that I would ever run an auto. Just the power loss and selectability when wanting to add power or use the power band more efficiently is more than enough reason to do the manual. Add in a part time transfer and it's perfect IMHO.
 
lay down the complete wiring you got and show us a picture..

I can help you with the wiring, no need to buy - plus, there is going to be many differences that you'll have improvise anyway.

like, the speedometer you have doesn't have the room for PRND432L.
it only shows PRND2L.

there will be too of many of such things.. so lets see what you've got, also show the ECU side plugs.. I will get you a part# too for the correct ecu

plus there is only one ECU for both the engine and transmission, if you've the complete wiring, it will be a relatively very simple job.
 
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I can't say this enough but there is zero chance that I would ever run an auto. Just the power loss and selectability when wanting to add power or use the power band more efficiently is more than enough reason to do the manual. Add in a part time transfer and it's perfect IMHO.
Totally agree with respect to what running a manual gets you. IF I can find a manual for what seams like a reasonable price I'd go for it. Any recommendations on where to source? H151F or H152 (gearing seems more ideal) would be the ticket.
lay down the complete wiring you got and show us a picture..

I can help you with the wiring, no need to buy - plus, there is going to be many differences that you'll have improvise anyway.

like, the speedometer you have doesn't have the room for PRND432L.
it only shows PRND2L.

there will be too of many of such things.. so lets see what you've got, also show the ECU side plugs.. I will get you a part# too for the correct ecu

plus there is only one ECU for both the engine and transmission, if you've the complete wiring, it will be a relatively very simple job.
I'll take you up on some guidance - I'll lay out what I do have of the harness, which is about half of it, and get some good photos. If I were to stick with the A750F auto, I'd run this clever adapter by Lutz Auto

EDIT: Do you know where I can source OEM toyota connectors and pins?

So I'm probably at a fork in the road here:
1. Decide if going manual or Auto
2. Then proceed with wiring and getting an ECU as the ECUs are auto/manual specific. Don't know much on these ECU's, but i do know this much.

Another thought. Let's say I go max depth down the rabbit hole and decide to go manual. Does anyone know of a way to retain cruise? Based on lelandEOD's conversion thread it seems the ECU also handles cruise control for the autos. Wonder if this is also true for a manual FTE ECU.
 
Totally agree with respect to what running a manual gets you. IF I can find a manual for what seams like a reasonable price I'd go for it. Any recommendations on where to source? H151F or H152 (gearing seems more ideal) would be the ticket.

I'll take you up on some guidance - I'll lay out what I do have of the harness, which is about half of it, and get some good photos. If I were to stick with the A750F auto, I'd run this clever adapter by Lutz Auto

EDIT: Do you know where I can source OEM toyota connectors and pins?

So I'm probably at a fork in the road here:
1. Decide if going manual or Auto
2. Then proceed with wiring and getting an ECU as the ECUs are auto/manual specific. Don't know much on these ECU's, but i do know this much.

Another thought. Let's say I go max depth down the rabbit hole and decide to go manual. Does anyone know of a way to retain cruise? Based on lelandEOD's conversion thread it seems the ECU also handles cruise control for the autos. Wonder if this is also true for a manual FTE ECU.

REF OEM connectors, I can find out where in the US and let you know.

I would personally just use the gear lever from the 100 series, instead of using that adapter; to me its added ****ery, given the way i use a car :P
CC control is the same for both manual and automatic.

While I always like an automatic in these things, the 1HDFTE with a manual is an experience of its own! Its kind of addictive too haha
 

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