- Thread starter
- #1,001
What fish are you working on now? Thought the overheating was solved by tightening the belts?
Builds LX450 where to start! (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter scottryana
- Start date
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NLXTACY
Wits' End
Nope, its back. It wasn't definitive which is why I didn't proclaim it. It was 113º yesterday and the truck hit 227º. But I noticed another red flag. I found an OEM water pump still in its box in my garage of crap. Which means......there is a non-OEM water pump in it's place. This could be the culprit I've been looking for. But I don't want to sideline your thread. As you were
NLXTACY
Wits' End
BTW, I can't believe you are at 1000 posts on this thread with no resolution
- Thread starter
- #1,004
Haha yeah but the difference between my thread and yours is I made 900 of the posts myself just rambling on about nonsense. lol.
Soooo time to change those cats???? lol
Soooo time to change those cats???? lol
NLXTACY
Wits' End
Most would argue I did the same
Yeah, what I wanted to do before didn't pan out for me so I'm just going to go the route of MagnaFlow. My front CAT is half-way plugged. Had the guy drill the holes and then weld them up after. I pretty much already knew.
BTW, I've been at 180º IAT recently as well. Thinking it may be time to add the snorkel as well and get that huge box outta my garage.
Luke111
Supporting Vendor
I don't think you know the definition of done
Those are sick numbers for a Land Cruiser
- Thread starter
- #1,007
I think once you get the back pressure relieved out of the exhaust your exhaust manifold will be cooler, the entire engine bay will be cooler and you will see cooler IAT's. The snorkel doesn't hurt, but it isn't your problem. Well good luck with the cats I really do think that is the right way to go. Should free up some power as well.
Buuuut once you get all that done, you should install a water/meth kit post MAF sensor triggered off of boost for your TRD SC.
Buuuut once you get all that done, you should install a water/meth kit post MAF sensor triggered off of boost for your TRD SC.
- Thread starter
- #1,008
Haha nope Lou, I am done with motor mods on this truck. I have some other things I need to do. Still haven't put the Slee shocks on, need to install the CB radio I have sitting here, and catch up on a few maintenance items but after that I am 100% complete with the heavy lifting on this truck and will use it as my DD'er while I go to school. But the NEXT one will be crazy! haha.
Oh but the poor thing really needs seat covers, taking donations. lol
Oh but the poor thing really needs seat covers, taking donations.
lolI don't think you know the definition of done
NLXTACY
Wits' End
I think once you get the back pressure relieved out of the exhaust your exhaust manifold will be cooler, the entire engine bay will be cooler and you will see cooler IAT's. The snorkel doesn't hurt, but it isn't your problem. Well good luck with the cats I really do think that is the right way to go. Should free up some power as well.
Buuuut once you get all that done, you should install a water/meth kit post MAF sensor triggered off of boost for your TRD SC.
Yes to all of the above
haha... "done"... haha ....
- Thread starter
- #1,012
Ok since this is the tech section and because I am getting quite a few PM's asking, "why in the world I would spray water into my engine?" "I am going to hydrolock my motor" "I have always heard if you get water in your motor you can ruin it" I thought I might try and explain a little better or in detail how or what water/meth injection is.
So the first and biggest elephant is getting water in the engine.
-When you are doing water/meth injection you are using a very high pressure pump (for me 220psi) and a spray nozzle that atomizes to a very fine particle size. When that water mist hits the hot, fast moving air it flash evaporates. You basically have a very humid air just like you might see in Florida after a rain. You do not have large amounts of liquid water entering the engine.
Second big question, why?
- 2 Reasons
1. When you inject the water mist and it changes states from liquid to water vapor it requires quite a lot of energy. This is called the Enthalpy of Vaporization. For water to change from liquid to a gas there is a requirement of 2,260,000J/kg.
This converts to 1020 BTU's per 1lb of water.
A BTU can cool 1lb of water 1 degree Fahrenheit
So you can see that there is a lot of capacity in water injection as an intercooler. This energy comes directly out of the heat in the air in the intake making it cool and dense.
2. The second reason to inject water/meth is the methanol component. While methanol also has some of the cooling properties of water, methanol's Enthalpy of Vaporization is less than half that of water's, the benefit of the methanol is that it is a high octane fuel additive. Pure methanol has an octane rating of 113. Making 91 or 93 seem quite pedestrian. When you are doing a forced induction(FI) setup controlling the combustion time becomes critical. The higher combustion chamber pressures and hotter intake air temps make FI very prone to (preignition/knock/detonation). This can be catastrophic to an engine, reducing the air temps as well as increasing the octane rating gives you great protection.
Ok but why windshield washer fluid?
- Windshield washer fluid is most often around a 70/30 mix of water and methanol. It is relatively cheap, it is easy to find at just about any gas station or auto parts store, it resists freezing because of the methanol content. Really it is kind of the perfect packaging for not only cleaning windows but forced inducted motors too lol. You could spend a lot more on expensive brand names like "Boost Juice" which are nothing more than 51/49 water to methanol but is $9/gal.
http://www.snowperformance.net/boost-juice.html
So the first and biggest elephant is getting water in the engine.
-When you are doing water/meth injection you are using a very high pressure pump (for me 220psi) and a spray nozzle that atomizes to a very fine particle size. When that water mist hits the hot, fast moving air it flash evaporates. You basically have a very humid air just like you might see in Florida after a rain. You do not have large amounts of liquid water entering the engine.
Second big question, why?
- 2 Reasons
1. When you inject the water mist and it changes states from liquid to water vapor it requires quite a lot of energy. This is called the Enthalpy of Vaporization. For water to change from liquid to a gas there is a requirement of 2,260,000J/kg.
This converts to 1020 BTU's per 1lb of water.
A BTU can cool 1lb of water 1 degree Fahrenheit
So you can see that there is a lot of capacity in water injection as an intercooler. This energy comes directly out of the heat in the air in the intake making it cool and dense.
2. The second reason to inject water/meth is the methanol component. While methanol also has some of the cooling properties of water, methanol's Enthalpy of Vaporization is less than half that of water's, the benefit of the methanol is that it is a high octane fuel additive. Pure methanol has an octane rating of 113. Making 91 or 93 seem quite pedestrian. When you are doing a forced induction(FI) setup controlling the combustion time becomes critical. The higher combustion chamber pressures and hotter intake air temps make FI very prone to (preignition/knock/detonation). This can be catastrophic to an engine, reducing the air temps as well as increasing the octane rating gives you great protection.
Ok but why windshield washer fluid?
- Windshield washer fluid is most often around a 70/30 mix of water and methanol. It is relatively cheap, it is easy to find at just about any gas station or auto parts store, it resists freezing because of the methanol content. Really it is kind of the perfect packaging for not only cleaning windows but forced inducted motors too lol. You could spend a lot more on expensive brand names like "Boost Juice" which are nothing more than 51/49 water to methanol but is $9/gal.
http://www.snowperformance.net/boost-juice.html
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Yep I have used it successfully on my other cars too.
People don't understand this sh!t is old tech anyway , they were using it on WW2 aircraft
http://www.wwiiaircraftperformance.org/p-47/P-47_Water-Injection_3feb44.pdf
People don't understand this sh!t is old tech anyway , they were using it on WW2 aircraft
http://www.wwiiaircraftperformance.org/p-47/P-47_Water-Injection_3feb44.pdf
- Thread starter
- #1,014
Yes it is, the fighting planes used to be both turbo and supercharged on the same engine, they needed a huge amount of cooling capacity. Air to Air wasn't enough, so water injection was added. Works great.
i think cdan was running the washer fluid as his mixture as well in his sc'ed 80 IIRC
- Thread starter
- #1,016
Yeah I imagine he probably was. I am not reinventing the wheel just trying to help people understand why.
just trying to help people understand why.
- Thread starter
- #1,017
Did a few small projects on the LX. Nothing big but let me putter around in the garage for a while this morning while procrastinating on less fun stuff. haha.
When I pulled the terrible marker lights, I noticed that the pigtail light harness looked like it had been chewed on by rats. Someone here said it was UV damage. Probably a non UV stable plastic. I was really surprised that this was a non OEM part, but it was very obvious the quality differences. Even on a 6" pigtail. As long as there are OEM parts I will be buying them. haha. Also replaced the front and rear marker bulbs with phillips LEDS. The rear is very close to the lens so will have to see how it goes.
Also got rid of my somewhat floppy visors and added the Rosen visors, very high quality piece like others have said. Only thing that is a little less than perfect is the gap between the top of the visor and the roof, but you can manipulate the lens enough to get coverage.
When I pulled the terrible marker lights, I noticed that the pigtail light harness looked like it had been chewed on by rats. Someone here said it was UV damage. Probably a non UV stable plastic. I was really surprised that this was a non OEM part, but it was very obvious the quality differences. Even on a 6" pigtail. As long as there are OEM parts I will be buying them. haha. Also replaced the front and rear marker bulbs with phillips LEDS. The rear is very close to the lens so will have to see how it goes.
Also got rid of my somewhat floppy visors and added the Rosen visors, very high quality piece like others have said. Only thing that is a little less than perfect is the gap between the top of the visor and the roof, but you can manipulate the lens enough to get coverage.
- Thread starter
- #1,018
Very sad day in the Land Cruiser world for me today. With 155,478 miles I watched in slow motion horror as the "D" light went out. One of the only things left that separates my 80 from all the rest was taken from me.
Ha....my d light went out the other day too...Thought I was special.. 216k miles
i've never known the love of the D glow.......
