- Thread starter
- #81
Yeah I pulled off the throttle body, it is just the intake hose and 4 bolts to get it loose enough.
Builds LX450 where to start! (4 Viewers)
- Thread starter scottryana
- Start date
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My EGR was not popping codes but it must have been close, the port in the manifold from the throttle body to the EGR was supper plugged up. I needed to use a drill bit and a rifle barrel steel brush to clean it all out. I too replaced all the vacume lines at the same time, no issues 10k miles in yet. Average on the 10k miles has been 13.8mpg running 315's and a 2.5" lift. Lots of tanks spent off road too or around town. I'm quite happy with the mileage so far.
Kinda hard to see in the pic but here it is. I removed the trim them sprayed the entire rail.
- Thread starter
- #84
GT443,
Yeah that does look good, I didn't end up going that route just out of laziness on my part. I think that looks great. I did however have them spray inside the rain gutters, might be a bad move, but I think it will help with roof rack clamps rubbing paint off and then rusting. We will see. I hope my gamiviti roof rack clamps show up soon so I can get over to the custom rack maker.
Yeah that does look good, I didn't end up going that route just out of laziness on my part. I think that looks great. I did however have them spray inside the rain gutters, might be a bad move, but I think it will help with roof rack clamps rubbing paint off and then rusting. We will see. I hope my gamiviti roof rack clamps show up soon so I can get over to the custom rack maker.
Kinda hard to see in the pic but here it is. I removed the trim them sprayed the entire rail.
GZUS! I just spent an hour or moreI think pouring over every word/picture in this thread ( and I aint no mechanic or bigtime do-it-yer-selfer!). Looks very sharp and sanitary. Rock on!
- Thread starter
- #86
Hippyhunter,
I am not a mechanic or big do-it-yourselfer, just jump in! These trucks are pretty easy to work on and are a great place to get better at it.
Ryan
I am not a mechanic or big do-it-yourselfer, just jump in! These trucks are pretty easy to work on and are a great place to get better at it.
Ryan
GZUS! I just spent an hour or moreI think pouring over every word/picture in this thread ( and I aint no mechanic or bigtime do-it-yer-selfer!). Looks very sharp and sanitary. Rock on!
The body shop I went to suggested I use the bedliner to prevent rust in the rails. He said his rusted there from water/rubbish sitting in there. the bedlliner will prevent any moisture from getting to the metal. We'll see.
- Thread starter
- #88
Sliders
Just a better pic of the Metal Tech Sliders. I did end up running down to the Skate Shop, and buying 54" of grip tape to stick on top of them. We had a wet day here today and the bare powder coat is slick.
Just a better pic of the Metal Tech Sliders. I did end up running down to the Skate Shop, and buying 54" of grip tape to stick on top of them. We had a wet day here today and the bare powder coat is slick.
- Thread starter
- #89
Yeah that totally makes sense. It is a good idea to pull off the plastic coated rain gutter trim and do like you did. I just didn't really look into it. I know the inside of my gutters from the sunroof back are line-x'd and hopefully the front part has enough slope to keep anything from sitting in it. I did get my Gimiviti gutter mounts yesterday and I am going to pull the gutter trim off. It just gets in the way of the mounting feet.
Ryan
Ryan
scottryana said:
Hehe I just got some 3m grip tape for my MT sliders as well. I was gonna spray liner on them but this is cheaper and replaceable. Might put some on top my front bumper for when im washing/working on my truck.
- Thread starter
- #91
Spent all day in the LX450, driving to Houston, to meet with an aluminum fabricator there that is going to do my roof rack. Had some good discussions with him, he is just starting to build roof racks. He has done a lot of boat towers in the past. But I am pretty excited about seeing how it turns out.
Houston Aluminum Welding
Looking at the aluminum, size and thickness, the entire rack 52x84 should be around 44lbs. The plan is to use thick walled 1 3/8 tube for the outside rail and then just over 1"x.125" tube for the inside with 3"x1/4" slats for the floor. With a cutout for the Sun roof. The guy's name is Travis and he is really open to ideas and would build anything you want. And his prices are VERY competitive compared to the other aluminum racks on the market.
Ryan
Houston Aluminum Welding
Looking at the aluminum, size and thickness, the entire rack 52x84 should be around 44lbs. The plan is to use thick walled 1 3/8 tube for the outside rail and then just over 1"x.125" tube for the inside with 3"x1/4" slats for the floor. With a cutout for the Sun roof. The guy's name is Travis and he is really open to ideas and would build anything you want. And his prices are VERY competitive compared to the other aluminum racks on the market.
Ryan
Luke111
Supporting Vendor
44lbs is super light... Looking forward to seeing this come together... My aluminum Rhino Rack is about 90lbs
Lou
Lou
- Thread starter
- #93
Yes it is very light and I was a little concerned, but it is just a flat roof rack and does have a cutout for the sunroof. I have put everything into finite analysis and it should support 2066lbs before buckling which is far more then it will ever see. Of course this assumes perfect welds etc, but I think it will be plenty for my waterproof bags, etc.
Ryan,
Your rig looks great.
That rack sounds super cool. Jealous. 44 lbs is quite light...a lot lighter than my confer rack with plywood floor (I need to change out that floor).
I used to put way too much weight up top on my 60, making it dangerous both on and off road. Tom Shepherd convinced me to re-organize and put the weight lower (or not take it). His book (if you can find a copy) is a worthwhile read, even if you have done tons of trips.
Vehicle-dependent Expedition Guide: 2nd Edition, Field Manual: Amazon.co.uk: Tom Sheppard: 9780953232413: Books
Cheers, Jon
Your rig looks great.
That rack sounds super cool. Jealous. 44 lbs is quite light...a lot lighter than my confer rack with plywood floor (I need to change out that floor).
I used to put way too much weight up top on my 60, making it dangerous both on and off road. Tom Shepherd convinced me to re-organize and put the weight lower (or not take it). His book (if you can find a copy) is a worthwhile read, even if you have done tons of trips.
Vehicle-dependent Expedition Guide: 2nd Edition, Field Manual: Amazon.co.uk: Tom Sheppard: 9780953232413: Books
Cheers, Jon
- Thread starter
- #95
Thanks Jon,
That is kind of my belief too, to much weight up high just makes the truck more unstable. I will have to see if I can find the book and read it. I know this 80 isn't going to be setup near as well as some of the more expedition type 80's I am just trying to keep it clean. I am hoping my 4x4labs bumper, 4x4lab driver cargo carier, and then fab up a way to carry the spare inside (like Slee's bar, but instead of, grab bar to the floor have the foot mount to the 3rd row mounting bolts on the wheel well) and I should be done for a while. I was going to get carried away with lighting but I think I am going to keep this truck pretty tame and I have a new project I am kicking around.
Thanks!
Ryan
That is kind of my belief too, to much weight up high just makes the truck more unstable. I will have to see if I can find the book and read it. I know this 80 isn't going to be setup near as well as some of the more expedition type 80's I am just trying to keep it clean. I am hoping my 4x4labs bumper, 4x4lab driver cargo carier, and then fab up a way to carry the spare inside (like Slee's bar, but instead of, grab bar to the floor have the foot mount to the 3rd row mounting bolts on the wheel well) and I should be done for a while. I was going to get carried away with lighting but I think I am going to keep this truck pretty tame and I have a new project I am kicking around.
Thanks!
Ryan
- Thread starter
- #96
The baselining continues -
Well I have been debating whether or not I was running a little warm. I have been watching the Scangauge very normally and my LX has been running around 193-195f occasionally creeping up to 198f. Here in winter in Texas with no hills I thought this was a little high, but after talking to people who have a lot of mechanical knowledge they said this is fine don't worry about it. But it kept eating at me so I bought a new fan clutch and ran up to the hobby shop and picked up some 50,000 cst. I added 4ml of 50,000 to the clutch and set it aside. I also decided that I would change the thermostat while I was at it. I popped the thermostat out and replaced it, and took the LX for a test drive. It wouldn't get any warmer than 182f. Problem solved. I have a new fan clutch but I will just save it and see if I have any issues this summer.
This baselining process is pretty in depth and considering someone who has never had an 80, and not knowing what is normal makes it even more entertaining. I feel like it is a never ending process of replacing 16 year old parts until everything is brand new again. ha!
Well I have been debating whether or not I was running a little warm. I have been watching the Scangauge very normally and my LX has been running around 193-195f occasionally creeping up to 198f. Here in winter in Texas with no hills I thought this was a little high, but after talking to people who have a lot of mechanical knowledge they said this is fine don't worry about it. But it kept eating at me so I bought a new fan clutch and ran up to the hobby shop and picked up some 50,000 cst. I added 4ml of 50,000 to the clutch and set it aside. I also decided that I would change the thermostat while I was at it. I popped the thermostat out and replaced it, and took the LX for a test drive. It wouldn't get any warmer than 182f. Problem solved. I have a new fan clutch but I will just save it and see if I have any issues this summer.
This baselining process is pretty in depth and considering someone who has never had an 80, and not knowing what is normal makes it even more entertaining. I feel like it is a never ending process of replacing 16 year old parts until everything is brand new again. ha!
- Thread starter
- #97
Groaning power steering -
So the other night I was pulling into a parking spot with the LX and I had all the windows down and I heard the power steering groaning a bit. It isn't noticeable when in the truck with the windows up, but certainly became noticeable with them down. So when I got home I pulled the power steering resevior lid and there was a honey colored fluid on the "dipstick"
On the resevior color, it calls specifically for ATF which I know is not honey colored, so I grabbed my handy turkey baster and stuck it down in the resevior and sucked up a baster full, it was damn near black and nasty looking. Not having all the stuff on hand for a full drain and fill I figured I would take the partial fill route.
Jacked up the front end, sucked all the fluid out of the resevior filled with Mobile 1 synthetic ATF, and worked the steering back and forth. Did the same thing about 5 times, until the fluid coming out was a nice red color. I figure I will continue to do this when I do my oil changes its only a few ounces and is very easy. Should eventually get the old black stuff out and be running on fresh ATF. Even after 5 drain and fills, the groaning has gone down considerably.
Ryan
So the other night I was pulling into a parking spot with the LX and I had all the windows down and I heard the power steering groaning a bit. It isn't noticeable when in the truck with the windows up, but certainly became noticeable with them down. So when I got home I pulled the power steering resevior lid and there was a honey colored fluid on the "dipstick"
On the resevior color, it calls specifically for ATF which I know is not honey colored, so I grabbed my handy turkey baster and stuck it down in the resevior and sucked up a baster full, it was damn near black and nasty looking. Not having all the stuff on hand for a full drain and fill I figured I would take the partial fill route.
Jacked up the front end, sucked all the fluid out of the resevior filled with Mobile 1 synthetic ATF, and worked the steering back and forth. Did the same thing about 5 times, until the fluid coming out was a nice red color. I figure I will continue to do this when I do my oil changes its only a few ounces and is very easy. Should eventually get the old black stuff out and be running on fresh ATF. Even after 5 drain and fills, the groaning has gone down considerably.
Ryan
Mine has the same Honey coloured liquid in it. I talked to my Toyota friend and he said its what comes from the factory. He said they put dexIII on the lid but that is not what is sent from the factory in them. I need to do a full drain and fill on mine as well. No noise yet but 150k miles on the stock stuff its time.
- Thread starter
- #99
Yeah I was at 130k miles on the stock stuff, and while it looked honey colored on the dipstick, when I sucked it out of the resevior it looked pretty bad. I did try and call the Toyota dealer to get the OEM hydraulic fluid but they told me to just use ATF. I know that this isn't as thurough as a real flush, but it will eventually all be replaced and I think being on a replacement schedule doing 15% every 3,000 miles is better than 100% every 150,000 miles.
- Thread starter
- #100
The difference in looks between a 35" and a 33" on a lifted 80 is crazy. I didn't imagine it would be much different but I sure like the way the 35's fillout the wheel wells.
On a side note, there are (5) 285/75 16 Toyo Open Country A/T with 14/64th (new is 17/64th) tread depth for sale in Texas $700
Ryan
On a side note, there are (5) 285/75 16 Toyo Open Country A/T with 14/64th (new is 17/64th) tread depth for sale in Texas $700
Ryan
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