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- #1,341
Bought an LX from Oregon, had it shipped 2800 miles across the US and it is slowly starting....
Builds LX450 where to start! (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter scottryana
- Start date
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Your such a tease.
Now you have to show some pics of this black beauty.
Now you have to show some pics of this black beauty.
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- #1,343
I have an entire other thread about it. Second in my signature. 
- Thread starter
- #1,344
This truck is a beast! Wow, I have had the truck in cold weather but that was at an altitude of about 4500ft and I have had it at low altitude but only when it was hot/warm in Texas. Never in low and cold. lol
At low altitude and cold weather the turbo boosts like crazy!! In fact it boosts so fast at WOT that it is blowing through my wastegate and hitting boost cut before I can even catch it. I will need to adjust the tune to change the wastegate duty cycle, either that or raise my boost cut. haha.
I have had a few PM's and people ask how much tinkering is involved. With a Standalone I would say quite a bit. Definitely not for the just jump in and drive crowd, at least not until you have run into all the possible situation you might be in.
So some examples of the difference in Density Altitude. The density altitude is a way to account for temp, altitude, humidity, barometric pressure, dew point, etc. It gives you a way to compare how cars would run in different places. The higher the density altitude the more it simulates the loss of power you see at altitude the lower the density altitude the more air to make power.
Density Altitudes today!
Richmond VA - (-1289ft) negative!!
Denver CO - (+7902ft)
San Antonio TX - (+2281ft)
For each 1000ft you increase in elevation you lose about 3% power. So going from Denver to Richmond today (7902ft - (-1289ft)) = 9191ft/1000ft = 9.191 * 3% = 27% increase in power!
Let me tell you it is definitely noticeable, I bet the truck picked up another 35hp.
At low altitude and cold weather the turbo boosts like crazy!! In fact it boosts so fast at WOT that it is blowing through my wastegate and hitting boost cut before I can even catch it. I will need to adjust the tune to change the wastegate duty cycle, either that or raise my boost cut. haha.
I have had a few PM's and people ask how much tinkering is involved. With a Standalone I would say quite a bit. Definitely not for the just jump in and drive crowd, at least not until you have run into all the possible situation you might be in.
So some examples of the difference in Density Altitude. The density altitude is a way to account for temp, altitude, humidity, barometric pressure, dew point, etc. It gives you a way to compare how cars would run in different places. The higher the density altitude the more it simulates the loss of power you see at altitude the lower the density altitude the more air to make power.
Density Altitudes today!
Richmond VA - (-1289ft) negative!!
Denver CO - (+7902ft)
San Antonio TX - (+2281ft)
For each 1000ft you increase in elevation you lose about 3% power. So going from Denver to Richmond today (7902ft - (-1289ft)) = 9191ft/1000ft = 9.191 * 3% = 27% increase in power!
Let me tell you it is definitely noticeable, I bet the truck picked up another 35hp.
Tapage
Club 4X4 Panamá
Would be interesting ( and expensive I know ) Dyno the same truck tune at altitude, and then Dyno tune as close as sea level as possible could be.
Save maps and change on the fly
Cheers Mike
1995 80 GXL 1FZFE Australian spec
GT3582 ball bearing turbo
A/A intercooler
Cheers Mike
1995 80 GXL 1FZFE Australian spec
GT3582 ball bearing turbo
A/A intercooler
- Thread starter
- #1,347
Well on most dynos it probably wouldn't matter, they usually use the SAE correction factor. More telling would probably be a car that races the 1/4 mile without making tune changes from one density altitude to another. I will spend a few minutes looking to see if I can find some data.
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Tapage
Club 4X4 Panamá
Without tuning it would not be fair, I mean, you will have it tune in one place or the other .. or in the middle and see how it perform altitude up and down ?
- Thread starter
- #1,349
Well yes and no. The tune is still based on the O2 sensors you still have closed loop for a lot of operation. So you still use the air/fuel map that you create based off of engine specifics not the environment.
For example you have a map with all the tune plots on it and no matter where you are your truck follows those plots i.e. 12.5:1 @ 1psi/2000rpms etc. But the thing that does change is how much sooner you can get into boost and the total amount of boost that you can make for a given wastegate duty cycle. When the air is really thin, at 2000rpms your compressor is not sucking in as much air as when the air is very dense.
So at the same wastegate duty cycle you see what I am seeing and that is more boost pressure than you might want.
The other thing that changes with the tune is I pull a little timing with higher IAT's so with the extra cold IAT's the truck is running more timing and making more torque.
In an ideal world you would find settings that work all the time no matter the temp, altitude, etc. Kind of part of dialing things in. If I was shooting for maximum power in either location yes I would have to retune each time, but since I am just looking to make it easy what I will probably do it take some wastegate duty cycle out of it so that it makes 16-17 psi here at basically 0ft and 30f there are some adjustments to run a "closed loop" boost control where it dynamically changes to match your desired boost but I haven't messed with it much.
For example you have a map with all the tune plots on it and no matter where you are your truck follows those plots i.e. 12.5:1 @ 1psi/2000rpms etc. But the thing that does change is how much sooner you can get into boost and the total amount of boost that you can make for a given wastegate duty cycle. When the air is really thin, at 2000rpms your compressor is not sucking in as much air as when the air is very dense.
So at the same wastegate duty cycle you see what I am seeing and that is more boost pressure than you might want.
The other thing that changes with the tune is I pull a little timing with higher IAT's so with the extra cold IAT's the truck is running more timing and making more torque.
In an ideal world you would find settings that work all the time no matter the temp, altitude, etc. Kind of part of dialing things in. If I was shooting for maximum power in either location yes I would have to retune each time, but since I am just looking to make it easy what I will probably do it take some wastegate duty cycle out of it so that it makes 16-17 psi here at basically 0ft and 30f there are some adjustments to run a "closed loop" boost control where it dynamically changes to match your desired boost but I haven't messed with it much.
Tapage
Club 4X4 Panamá
So basically makes less power at altitude ( as expected ) without pushing more boost, or more timing to compensate the thin air .. ?
Sorry I live in flat lands ..
Sorry I live in flat lands ..
- Thread starter
- #1,351
You make less boost with the same effort from the turbo since the thin air fills the intake tract less (less boost). So you can tell the turbo(wastegate) to work harder at higher altitudes to make the same power. If your turbo isn't maxed out.
But if you tell your wastegate to work harder in thin air you can have too much boost at low altitude in cold air so you have to find a happy medium with your tune or you can use the closed loop target boost control which reads your boost and dynamically changes your wastegate setting to try and keep it close. I just haven't played with that much. I probably should.
But if you tell your wastegate to work harder in thin air you can have too much boost at low altitude in cold air so you have to find a happy medium with your tune or you can use the closed loop target boost control which reads your boost and dynamically changes your wastegate setting to try and keep it close. I just haven't played with that much. I probably should.
- Thread starter
- #1,352
Well I had a little heart in throat moment tonight.
I was playing around with a mustang on the highway. It is pretty cold here around 29f, I greedily upped the boost a little to 18-19psi.
Well O/D off pretty hard hit, lots of boost and I hear a loud pop, and loss of power. Mind immediately goes to OEM head gasket? OEM head bolts, or the almost 170,000 mile stock bottom end. Still have oil pressure, no steam or anything I can see from the tailpipe. I can still hear the turbo spool with throttle so I know the turbo didn't die.
I pull over and pop the hood, it is a damn cheap silicon reducer that goes from the turbo to the intercooler! It looks like I had it routed a little too close to the A/W intercooler tank it had a slight rub mark and a nice sized hole where the boost found it's way out. haha. So some duct tape, and $8 and I will be back in business. OEM head gasket, OEM head bolts, and stock 170,000 mile bottom end live another day even with 19psi. lol.
I was playing around with a mustang on the highway. It is pretty cold here around 29f, I greedily upped the boost a little to 18-19psi.
Well O/D off pretty hard hit, lots of boost and I hear a loud pop, and loss of power. Mind immediately goes to OEM head gasket? OEM head bolts, or the almost 170,000 mile stock bottom end. Still have oil pressure, no steam or anything I can see from the tailpipe. I can still hear the turbo spool with throttle so I know the turbo didn't die.
I pull over and pop the hood, it is a damn cheap silicon reducer that goes from the turbo to the intercooler! It looks like I had it routed a little too close to the A/W intercooler tank it had a slight rub mark and a nice sized hole where the boost found it's way out. haha. So some duct tape, and $8 and I will be back in business. OEM head gasket, OEM head bolts, and stock 170,000 mile bottom end live another day even with 19psi. lol.
I'll drink to that! 
thatcabledude
GOLD Star
How far behind was the Stang when it popped?
- Thread starter
- #1,355
Stang didn't win any of them from a 35-90mph lol. After 90 (around 80 indicated), he started walking away.
How far behind was the Stang when it popped?
So your "cheap" part failed and then you choose to replace it with another "cheap" $8.00 part?
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- #1,357
Part failed because it was rubbing on the corner of the A/W intercooler box. Just like if you run a wire next to a stainless steel hose, it isn't the hose's fault when it rubs through the wire. My oversight on the rubbing.
Its 3:50 am and I am just now finishing this thread. Time for bed. Have work at 8am. I hate you and love you Scottryana
- Thread starter
- #1,359
Haha, thanks. It's a great truck, I still drive it 2-3 times a week, going great. I wish I would have cleaned up the wiring before I left Moab, but still running strong!
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- #1,360
Well s***, lost a second Meizere water pump for the air/water intercooler. These are supposed to be some of the best. I sent them pics of my setup and they said they should practically run forever but that is definitely not the case. I am only getting about 8-9 months out of them and they are like $300. The first time they suggested that maybe it was something strange with having the switched fan wired into the same circuit as the pump but this time everything is wired up separately. Kind of at a loss. It is a very solid pump, everything looks great inside the pump body but the motors are completely locked up? Can't even spin the impeller by hand.
Any ideas would be appreciated as it is a pain in the ass to have to drain the tank, unhook everything, pull the connections and the tank to replace the pump and then reprime the water/meth injection and the air/water intercooler.
Any ideas would be appreciated as it is a pain in the ass to have to drain the tank, unhook everything, pull the connections and the tank to replace the pump and then reprime the water/meth injection and the air/water intercooler.
