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- #1,301
reserved 66-70
Builds LX450 where to start!
- Thread starter scottryana
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #1,303
No it is not just the camera it is terribly bright. I have yet to be flashed but I would not put the 4500lm bulb in the low beam if I did it again maybe like a 2500lm.
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- #1,304
Edited
- Thread starter
- #1,305
So at the expense of full disclosure I am having some issues with my Line-X. I have loved this mod from day one! It does a great job of keeping the truck looking sharp no matter how you use it. Texas mesquite no signs, desert brush no not a problem, but just recently I started to notice that the color is changing.
The bottom base coat is kind of a beige/brown and it is coming through the silver top coat. I am not sure if it is sun damage, too aggressively spraying with the pressure washer or what, but I am not a fan of this phantom brown coming through my nice silver.
So I wrote the Line-X shop that did my truck and this is their reply.
I just received your email. Im sooo sorry it has taken so long to get back to you. I remember doing your lexus like it was yesterday. i pulled your invoice seeing if the paint code was on there, and it just says custom colormatch. we currently are no longer using the DuPont system, as linex and dupont have parted ways. The best bet to have this fixed is to find a local linex shop, ask them about renewing your liner. the proper steps to do this would include
cleaning the liner,
sanding the liner,
priming the liner,
retexturing it with actual linex
then reapplying the top coat.
We have had problems in the past with silver, and silver like colors not holding up. we have sent in samples to linex corporate and they cant tell us the problems. i have tried throwing all of my silver materials away and starting over in the past, and had the exact same issues. Without seeing it in person, i cant diagnose the issues associated, but if it were to come back here, the above steps are the steps i would take to ensure its fixed properly. If you have any questions, Please dont hesitate to call me.
Well I am over 1000 miles from that shop. The Line-X lifetime warranty only applies to truck beds. If I get it resprayed silver again, there is no guarantee that it won't just happen again in 3 years.
So what do I do?? I do not want to go black. Do I live with this brown and silver mess, do I get some crazy color, do I just get silver again since it looks so damn good when it is fresh?
Throw back
Current
The bottom base coat is kind of a beige/brown and it is coming through the silver top coat. I am not sure if it is sun damage, too aggressively spraying with the pressure washer or what, but I am not a fan of this phantom brown coming through my nice silver.
So I wrote the Line-X shop that did my truck and this is their reply.
I just received your email. Im sooo sorry it has taken so long to get back to you. I remember doing your lexus like it was yesterday. i pulled your invoice seeing if the paint code was on there, and it just says custom colormatch. we currently are no longer using the DuPont system, as linex and dupont have parted ways. The best bet to have this fixed is to find a local linex shop, ask them about renewing your liner. the proper steps to do this would include
cleaning the liner,
sanding the liner,
priming the liner,
retexturing it with actual linex
then reapplying the top coat.
We have had problems in the past with silver, and silver like colors not holding up. we have sent in samples to linex corporate and they cant tell us the problems. i have tried throwing all of my silver materials away and starting over in the past, and had the exact same issues. Without seeing it in person, i cant diagnose the issues associated, but if it were to come back here, the above steps are the steps i would take to ensure its fixed properly. If you have any questions, Please dont hesitate to call me.
Well I am over 1000 miles from that shop. The Line-X lifetime warranty only applies to truck beds. If I get it resprayed silver again, there is no guarantee that it won't just happen again in 3 years.
So what do I do?? I do not want to go black. Do I live with this brown and silver mess, do I get some crazy color, do I just get silver again since it looks so damn good when it is fresh?
Throw back
Current
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I would live with it if it was me. Mainly because mine sucks as well but I did it myself so it's on me. Car wash yesterday I sprayed some off and noticed it was an area I didn't sand very well. Eventually I will respray mine properly.
Aren't you storing it for awhile anyway?
Aren't you storing it for awhile anyway?
- Thread starter
- #1,308
I don't have any adhesion issues, it has held up great, even the texture is the same as it was since day one, the only difference is the beige/brown color bleeding through.
If we are voting, I say throw another layer of silver Line X on there.
Gary's UZJ-45 is done in 40th Anniversary Antique Sage Pearl with color-matched LineX on the front fenders. You might send him a PM to see if he's had issues or had anything done differently from you...his has been on the truck much longer than yours.
Gary's UZJ-45 is done in 40th Anniversary Antique Sage Pearl with color-matched LineX on the front fenders. You might send him a PM to see if he's had issues or had anything done differently from you...his has been on the truck much longer than yours.
1973Guppie
Supporting Vendor
at least our here in CA line x is just crazy expensive. I plan to do beige monstaliner eventually. I redid my sides in black herculiner and it came out like crap. Going to beat on the truck for awhile and then pull everything apart and redo it in beige.
cheddar bob
SILVER Star
It honestly looks more like fade than anything. It doesn't have nearly the brilliance it did when new.
There may be some uv protectant you could use after having it redone?
There may be some uv protectant you could use after having it redone?
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- #1,313
That's entirely possible since it's been outside in the Texas sun and now the Utah sun since it was done 3 years ago. I was told it was UV stable just like their premium bedliner and fading wouldn't be a problem so it was certainly not something I thought to mess with. But the funny thing is its happening worse in the areas that would see less sun, like the bottom curve of the rocker, or inside lip of the wheelwells.
- Thread starter
- #1,314
Hey Mike,
I am going to put our conversation here, hope you don't mind, but I think it is worthwhile and anyone that is doing a search on turbo 1FZFE's might be able to benefit from it, where as if we keep it in PM it wouldn't be searchable.
PM from ZA80
Hi I assume Scott
Would really appreciate to see some of the maps you are running.
Here in South Africa there are only s handful of guys who have turbo charged a 1fzfe.
None of them however have done an Auto 80 all manual transmission.
The Dyno tuning services are reluctant to work on an 80 series due to weight and size. Also lack of experience on anything with more than 3000cc.
Sharing info is one thing and with your experience I am sure you would like to know what my setup is.
GT3582 ball bearing turbo
Log manifold
Precision 46mm waste gate with 7psi springs and boost controller.
Air to air front mount intercooler
44mm sequential dump valve.
3" exhaust
Spitronics ECU
Innovation A/F meter
Boost gauge
Stock injectors
New pistons and rings and big ends and new head gasket.
Some advice and lessons learnt will be greatly appreciated. Experience remains the best tutor.
Regards
Mike Evans
ZA80
I am going to put our conversation here, hope you don't mind, but I think it is worthwhile and anyone that is doing a search on turbo 1FZFE's might be able to benefit from it, where as if we keep it in PM it wouldn't be searchable.
PM from ZA80
Hi I assume Scott
Would really appreciate to see some of the maps you are running.
Here in South Africa there are only s handful of guys who have turbo charged a 1fzfe.
None of them however have done an Auto 80 all manual transmission.
The Dyno tuning services are reluctant to work on an 80 series due to weight and size. Also lack of experience on anything with more than 3000cc.
Sharing info is one thing and with your experience I am sure you would like to know what my setup is.
GT3582 ball bearing turbo
Log manifold
Precision 46mm waste gate with 7psi springs and boost controller.
Air to air front mount intercooler
44mm sequential dump valve.
3" exhaust
Spitronics ECU
Innovation A/F meter
Boost gauge
Stock injectors
New pistons and rings and big ends and new head gasket.
Some advice and lessons learnt will be greatly appreciated. Experience remains the best tutor.
Regards
Mike Evans
ZA80
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- Thread starter
- #1,315
Mike here are the maps I am running.
I have settled on these to give myself great power but still be fairly easy on the stock, rods, pistons and bearings in the 160,000+ mile bottom end. In your setup with forged rods and pistons you shouldn't need to taper boost at all.
First is my Air to Fuel map. I have keep it fairly close to 14.7:1 in Vacuum but taper to 11.5-11:1 as boost builds.
Next is my boost taper map.
I have run higher boost (up to 17psi) but this is what I settled on to give myself the best mix of power and longevity on my stock motor, with OEM bolts and head gasket
And finally my timing map.
This one is the most rough and I think I could push timing up a bit more, but I really need more dyno time and some knock ears to detect any detonation, but I know that this is safe so it is what I am running right now.
I have settled on these to give myself great power but still be fairly easy on the stock, rods, pistons and bearings in the 160,000+ mile bottom end. In your setup with forged rods and pistons you shouldn't need to taper boost at all.
First is my Air to Fuel map. I have keep it fairly close to 14.7:1 in Vacuum but taper to 11.5-11:1 as boost builds.
Next is my boost taper map.
I have run higher boost (up to 17psi) but this is what I settled on to give myself the best mix of power and longevity on my stock motor, with OEM bolts and head gasket
And finally my timing map.
This one is the most rough and I think I could push timing up a bit more, but I really need more dyno time and some knock ears to detect any detonation, but I know that this is safe so it is what I am running right now.
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- Thread starter
- #1,316
Mike you have quite a setup! The biggest limitations as I see them with your setup is going to be your fuel injectors as well as your fuel pump.
The injectors that we have in the US are about 300-315cc you will likely be maxing those out with a GT3582 at 7psi. You should step up to a larger injector and fuel pump before you spend a lot of time and money tuning your current setup.
I am using the fourth generation 3S-GTE Toyota injectors, they are around 540-550cc. I would recommend them as they have a nice spray plate and not just a single nozzle.
The injectors that we have in the US are about 300-315cc you will likely be maxing those out with a GT3582 at 7psi. You should step up to a larger injector and fuel pump before you spend a lot of time and money tuning your current setup.
I am using the fourth generation 3S-GTE Toyota injectors, they are around 540-550cc. I would recommend them as they have a nice spray plate and not just a single nozzle.
Thx Scott
Not 100% sure on my injectors as my 80 is a Australia spec GXL.
I have done the fuel pump already.
Have you guys gone with different fuel regulators or turned up fuel pressure.
The irony is I started this build to improve fuel consumption and driving comfort.
I also live at altitude 1300 to 2000meters above sea level.
Do you perhaps have part numbers for injectors?
Not 100% sure on my injectors as my 80 is a Australia spec GXL.
I have done the fuel pump already.
Have you guys gone with different fuel regulators or turned up fuel pressure.
The irony is I started this build to improve fuel consumption and driving comfort.
I also live at altitude 1300 to 2000meters above sea level.
Do you perhaps have part numbers for injectors?
- Thread starter
- #1,318
No need to change the fuel regulator or the fuel pressure if you are running a standalone computer Mike, you can just change the injector size in the standalone. If you start messing with the fuel pressure you are actually getting less volume out of your pump. (volume and pressure on the pump side are inversely related, while volume and pressure on the injector size are proportionally related)
I do not have a part number for the injectors sorry. We did not get the fourth generation 3S-GTE here in the US, but it is a common swap in MR2's so the shop I used had many half cuts but the funny thing is the MR2 guys all went to the 1000cc injectors so he had a whole box full of the 3S-GTE injectors that were left over. I put a pic up many pages back I will go back and see if I can find it.
Yeah I started my LX450 and I swore I was not going to spend any money on it, I was just going to do the PM and drive it. Well we all know how that goes. lol. I too am at about 1300m and travel a lot between 2000-2500m, the turbo makes all the difference in the world.
I do not have a part number for the injectors sorry. We did not get the fourth generation 3S-GTE here in the US, but it is a common swap in MR2's so the shop I used had many half cuts but the funny thing is the MR2 guys all went to the 1000cc injectors so he had a whole box full of the 3S-GTE injectors that were left over. I put a pic up many pages back I will go back and see if I can find it.
Yeah I started my LX450 and I swore I was not going to spend any money on it, I was just going to do the PM and drive it. Well we all know how that goes. lol. I too am at about 1300m and travel a lot between 2000-2500m, the turbo makes all the difference in the world.
Thx will need to start reading this thread of yours as I have not seen it before [emoji15]
- Thread starter
- #1,320
Here is a picture of the injectors I used. Sorry you can not make out the part numbers. :-/
They are from a 1997-2007 3S-GTE. Not sure how your parts counter is out there, but I am sure they could pull it up.
They are from a 1997-2007 3S-GTE. Not sure how your parts counter is out there, but I am sure they could pull it up.
