Build Lumpskie's Diesel 80 build

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I finally adjusted the boost compensator and modified the aneroid rod. The performance difference is amazing!!

Boost Compensator:

Lid Removed. Pulling out diaphragm and aneroid rod.

Close up of aneroid rod, after pulling it out. (in the first picture, you can see that the side pin had been bottoming out... causing fuel cutoff)



Aneroid rod in the mill for cutting: (all this is just to slope the end of the rod, so it can be replaced without pulling the side pin within the compensator)

Here's the rod, after cutting:

After modding, I adjusted the compensator spring preload (took about 4 tries to get it right). I also rotated the aneroid from the minimum fueling position to the maximum fueling position. (the steeper slope side) After I got everything dialed in, I'm running 23psi boost with AFRs that max out around 1000 degrees. (I hit 1050 on a long hill accelerating) Performance is MUCH better than it has been. I think I'll leave these settings for a while and see how it does. After a bit, I might get on a dyno and use a wideband to tune it more. But for now, I'm happy!
 
carbon60 said:
How do you think any tuning affects long-term reliability?
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From what I've read, I believe the tuning will actually help reliability just because the EGTs are now controlled much better.

My thought is that, on a stock setup, the turbo was the weakest link because '90s turbo technology wasn't there yet. Now, with the Gturbo, I can consistently run much higher boost pressure without worrying about bearings or heat in the turbo. That lets me push more air to keep the EGTs down. On the fuel side, I turned the aneroid rod, but didn't grind it. So, I went from the least fuel side to the most fuel side. This is getting me much more power, along with the fact that my boost compensator now has the spring preload set to apply the right amount of fuel as my throttle increases. (initially, it would be way rich down low and too lean up high in RPMs... made for terrible performance) So, now I'm using way less throttle to get the rig going and keep speed. I think my mileage might actually improve because of getting this tuned out as well. Overall, it feels like driving a modern SUV rather than a semi truck now!

After I drive it for a while, I want to hook up a wide band and put it on a dyno. That will tell me exactly what my AFRs are as a go from 0 to full throttle and will give me my associated power output. If I can fine tune that, I think I can increase mileage even more, while maintaining consistent performance and controlled EGTs!

Oh, one more thing. I took the cruiser to a restaurant this morning and an older gentleman was walking out as I parked. He stopped in his tracks and looked around as I pulled into my spot and shut the cruiser down. When I got out, he said, "Wow, I thought I heard a Dodge pull into the lot. Your Toyota sounds like a Cummins!" I was kind of a fun experience.
 
I found a bigger rock down the street and tried a little more flexing. This is about as far as this suspension will go with the sway bar on. From what I've read, L shocks will let these springs articulate more, but I'd need to extend the bump stops a little bit. I think my next test will be to pull the front sway bar end links and see what happens.

I should have measured the height:


Rear extension:


Front compression: (Sway bar still on)


Rear compression:


Another thing I heard is that the FJ80 front sway bar is identical but thinner than my FZJ80 sway bar. That might allow for more flex, without removing it. Either way, I think I need more caster... the cruiser wants to dart around a bit at freeway speeds. And, I need to travel 80-90mph to keep in traffic on my morning commute!
 
Nice truck!

My 81 had an OME 2.5" lift when I got it, it was darty as hell to drive. It had less than a degree of caster.
I was going to try the Slee adjustable caster bushings but they were out of stock at the time. I ended up getting a set of Slee 3 degree bushings from a guy on Mud, they made a huge difference.
 
bj70_guy said:
Nice truck!

My 81 had an OME 2.5" lift when I got it, it was darty as hell to drive. It had less than a degree of caster.
I was going to try the Slee adjustable caster bushings but they were out of stock at the time. I ended up getting a set of Slee 3 degree bushings from a guy on Mud, they made a huge difference.
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That's good to know. I'm thinking about those Slee adjustable caster bushings too. It looks like you don't need to press them out and in every time you replace them either.
 
Get the caster plates. Won't wear out like the bushings will.
 
Box Rocket said:
Get the caster plates. Won't wear out like the bushings will.
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Which ones do you recommend? I'm planning on going between 2 and 3 inches of lift.
 
I have the Slee plates. The Landtank ones from Wits End are good too.
 
Had to use 4 low to get out of the driveway the last couple of days! Grabbed some pictures of the Tacoma and Landcruiser next to each other while I was out. The Landcruiser needs some aesthetic help... the Taco looks much cooler when they stand next to each other. But, the LC was actually better at getting out of the driveway.



33s and 35s...


In the process of clearing snow, I broke my snowblower. So, I borrowed my buddy's trailer and snowblower. I didn't even notice the trailer back there, when I was towing it. Good torque out of this diesel...
 
I was curious if my 24psi tune was safe for an older Gturbo Grunter. So, I contacted Gturbo via their email interface on their website.

Here's what Gturbo emailed me last night:

HI Justin,
24psi is fine, we usually have them set to 22psi, but 24 is fine also, they can operate between 14-28psi
The old ones still run as efficiently as the new ones.

Regards,
Sam Hewitt


Based on this, I might bump my boost up to 26psi, just to keep the EGTs a little lower. Hey if 1050 degrees is good, 950 would be even better, right?
 
smoltz said:
Nice rig! I want to check this out in real life, maybe a diesel swap is in my future... NH meetup?
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That sounds like fun. I have yet to meet another Landcruiser guy out here. Where in New England do you live? I'm in southern New Hampshire.
 
I adjusted the boost compensator again last night. I think I'm finally adjusted to the point where I'm not hitting fuel cutoff at full throttle. Unfortunately, that increased my fueling across the board. So, I'm running hot again. I turned the aneroid pin from max fuel to 90 degrees out from max fueling. It helped a bit but I'm still running hot. (in cold winter weather) Today, I think I'll rotate the pin to the minimum fueling position and see how it runs. If that doesn't work, I'll adjust the main fueling screw to pull fuel across the board. Adjusting that means I'd have have to readjust my idle. If I can get this rig to run at the right EGTs and fuel roughly correctly across the board, I will strap it to a dyno with a wideband and tune to AFRs.


Tapage said:
when the lockup happen for 3rd and 4th gear .? or you can control it manually ..?
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I figured out a little more about my automatic transmission! (These crazy things are still a mystery to me) So, I can lock out the torque converter in either 3rd or 4th gear. In 4th, it always has locked out above 50 mph, indicated. In 3rd, it turns out that you need to drop the gear shifter to 3rd. Then, over 50 it locks out just like Drive does for 4th! Apparently, this will be handy for towing on long hills. I thought it was neat anyway.
 
smoltz said:
I'm in Manchester area. Ya, not many 80s around here anymore either.
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Cool, I'm over in Hampstead. Shoot me a PM and we can work out a place/time to get together. I'd love to see your rig too.
 
Lumpskie said:
I adjusted the boost compensator again last night. I think I'm finally adjusted to the point where I'm not hitting fuel cutoff at full throttle. Unfortunately, that increased my fueling across the board. So, I'm running hot again. I turned the aneroid pin from max fuel to 90 degrees out from max fueling. It helped a bit but I'm still running hot. (in cold winter weather) Today, I think I'll rotate the pin to the minimum fueling position and see how it runs. If that doesn't work, I'll adjust the main fueling screw to pull fuel across the board. Adjusting that means I'd have have to readjust my idle. If I can get this rig to run at the right EGTs and fuel roughly correctly across the board, I will strap it to a dyno with a wideband and tune to AFRs.




I figured out a little more about my automatic transmission! (These crazy things are still a mystery to me) So, I can lock out the torque converter in either 3rd or 4th gear. In 4th, it always has locked out above 50 mph, indicated. In 3rd, it turns out that you need to drop the gear shifter to 3rd. Then, over 50 it locks out just like Drive does for 4th! Apparently, this will be handy for towing on long hills. I thought it was neat anyway.
Click to expand...

Do you have the fully hydraulic or electronic version of the A442F? Easy to tell by the presence/absence of the ECT dash button and O/D button on the shifter. It sounds like you've got the earlier fully hydraulic version from your description above, so to have TC lockup in 3rd you'd need to have an upgraded valve body installed, very nice!
 
IanB said:
Do you have the fully hydraulic or electronic version of the A442F? Easy to tell by the presence/absence of the ECT dash button and O/D button on the shifter. It sounds like you've got the earlier fully hydraulic version from your description above, so to have TC lockup in 3rd you'd need to have an upgraded valve body installed, very nice!
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Thanks @IanB ! Yep, the PO installed the fully hydraulic A442F transmission into it. It's a Wholesale Automatics "extreme" I believe, with the upgraded valve body and higher capacity torque converter. I didn't fully appreciate this mod until recently with all my playing with boost and power.
 
The fully hydraulic A442F is not something that was ever available in North America, just the electronic version, so finding good info on it can be a challenge. Hell, even getting people to acknowledge it's a real thing can be a challenge, lol.
 
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