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@IanB

I found this thread on calibrating the boost compensator:
Anyone in the Edmonton AB area with fuel Pump tuning skills?

So, to calibrate the boos compensator, do I remove the aneroid pin, mark it and replace... then drive the truck through the whole range of throttle settings... then remove the pin and see where it is marked? Based on that, it sounds like there is a screw which adjusts the starting position of that pin and you want to use the entire profile of the pin?

From reading the guy's posts in the thread, it seems like calibrating this boost compensator might be a "must do" for me...

Thanks, as always, for all of your help and instruction!
 
Lumpskie said:
@IanB

I found this thread on calibrating the boost compensator:
Anyone in the Edmonton AB area with fuel Pump tuning skills?

So, to calibrate the boos compensator, do I remove the aneroid pin, mark it and replace... then drive the truck through the whole range of throttle settings... then remove the pin and see where it is marked? Based on that, it sounds like there is a screw which adjusts the starting position of that pin and you want to use the entire profile of the pin?

From reading the guy's posts in the thread, it seems like calibrating this boost compensator might be a "must do" for me...

Thanks, as always, for all of your help and instruction!
Click to expand...

There's a really good video in the "official fuel pump tuning thread" in the diesel section, but you've got the jist of it. You can rig up a bicycle pump with a gauge to pump it up to your target boost a few times, and then you can pull the pin to see where it's riding without having to run the engine and deal with all that heat, quicker too. Paint pen on the pin lets you see easily where it's riding between adjustments. I did have to purchase a set of low profile allen keys to get at the screws closest to the engine on the boost compensator lid.
 
ozwallaby said:
@Lumpskie......You've taken some great closeups of your boost controller and the connections etc... can you take a shot or two of the glows that the wilson switch you mentioned activates..... thnx
Click to expand...

I can try and snap a couple if pictures for you. As you probably already know, you can't see the glow plugs themselves in the engine bay. Do you want a picture of the switch? It maybe the plug wire?

IanB said:
There's a really good video in the "official fuel pump tuning thread" in the diesel section, but you've got the jist of it. You can rig up a bicycle pump with a gauge to pump it up to your target boost a few times, and then you can pull the pin to see where it's riding without having to run the engine and deal with all that heat, quicker too. Paint pen on the pin lets you see easily where it's riding between adjustments. I did have to purchase a set of low profile allen keys to get at the screws closest to the engine on the boost compensator lid.
Click to expand...

I'll check out that video. Thanks for the lead! I have a feeling that adjusting that compensator is going to make a big difference.
 
Lump.....I really want shots of the plugs and wire system that feeds/activates them...... I know the 2h has an insulated bar that joins the glows together...... On the 1hz the glows have a sort of continuous wire that connects them all... Both these systems are very easy to see...... See how you go, thnx
 
ozwallaby said:
Lump.....I really want shots of the plugs and wire system that feeds/activates them...... I know the 2h has an insulated bar that joins the glows together...... On the 1hz the glows have a sort of continuous wire that connects them all... Both these systems are very easy to see...... See how you go, thnx
Click to expand...

Ok, I'll be honest. I don't know exactly where they are on the engine. But I'll see if I can find them and grab some pictures after work tomorrow. That being said, the glow plug discussion did inspire me to take a few videos. It's been roughly 5 degrees F every morning over here so, I got some videos of cold starts both with and without using the glow plugs... just to show the difference. I'll post them up in the morning, in case anyone finds it interesting.
 
Glow plugs are on the intake side of the head, kind of intertwined in the injectors and fuel lines, you'll see the glowplugs in the head with a "busbar" that connects them all.
 
IanB said:
There's a really good video in the "official fuel pump tuning thread" in the diesel section, but you've got the jist of it. You can rig up a bicycle pump with a gauge to pump it up to your target boost a few times, and then you can pull the pin to see where it's riding without having to run the engine and deal with all that heat, quicker too. Paint pen on the pin lets you see easily where it's riding between adjustments. I did have to purchase a set of low profile allen keys to get at the screws closest to the engine on the boost compensator lid.
Click to expand...

@IanB Was this the video post that you said I should see?

Malahki said:
Here are a couple vids on you tube dealing with the android pin and boost comp spring setting. You'll see in the second video he uses paint pen on the fuel pin to show the travel of the follower pin


Click to expand...


I watched it and I think I'm getting a little better understanding. So, with a higher boost level... do I want to set more preload in the compensator spring by turning it counter clockwise? That's the only thing that I didn't quite get from the videos. (I might try grinding my aneriod pin tonight, for easy reinsertion.)
 
IanB said:
Glow plugs are on the intake side of the head, kind of intertwined in the injectors and fuel lines, you'll see the glowplugs in the head with a "busbar" that connects them all.
Click to expand...


Got it. I'll try to snag a few pictures today...
 
Also, washed my 80 for the first time and got to see what the paint actually looked like. Honestly, it's in better shape than I thought. I might be able to buff it up a bit and just have some minor spots touched up to prevent future rust.



 
baldilocks said:
Do you have any driveline vibrations? At 2" lift probably not if everything is up to snuff and this can hold true for a 4" lift when castor correction has not been accomplished. What I'm saying is, when you rotate the axle to correct castor angle there is a possibility of new front drive shaft vibes but probably not with a 2" lift.
You could easily install a set
Of Man-a-fre drop brackets to the frame where the front radius arms attatch. They are a simple, inexpensive bolt on solution that actually works best for your daily street use. I suggest having your castor angle determined first so you know what you are dealing with. These drop brackets come in 2,3,4" iirc.
Click to expand...
I know you said it your DD but the drop brackets really reduce ground clearance & I seem to get hung up no the stock ones. personally I run the Bushing for there simplicity max ground clearance & no extra parts. I have not noticed any ride or flex change .
 
Well, to be truthful, if you do have a 1hdt, I've been sending you on a bit of a chase for something that doesn't exist on that motor..... If you did find glow plugs, the motor is most likely a 1hz.... This would explain why it starts so well even without glowing.... But I now wonder what the Wilson switch does.... Maybe nothing.... Sorry for the subterfuge
 
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ozwallaby said:
Well, to be truthful, if you do have a 1hdt, I've been sending you on a bit of a chase for something that doesn't exist on that motor..... If you did find glow plugs, the motor is most likely a 1hz.... This would explain why it starts so well even without glowing.... But I now wonder what the Wilson switch does.... Maybe nothing.... Sorry for the subterfuge
Click to expand...

1hdt have plugs, same as 1HZ. I think you are thinking of the glow screen on the HDFT.
 
Broski said:
I know you said it your DD but the drop brackets really reduce ground clearance & I seem to get hung up no the stock ones. personally I run the Bushing for there simplicity max ground clearance & no extra parts. I have not noticed any ride or flex change .
Click to expand...

That's good to know. I will be wheeling/rock crawling this rig on the weekends... I guess it's not as simple of a choice as I thought...

ozwallaby said:
Well, to be truthful, if you do have a 1hdt, I've been sending you on a bit of a chase for something that doesn't exist on that motor..... If you did find glow plugs, the motor is most likely a 1hz.... This would explain why it starts so well even without glowing.... But I now wonder what the Wilson switch does.... Maybe nothing.... Sorry for the subterfuge
Click to expand...

Are you sure? I've seen a lot of threads on 1HD-T glow plugs...

1HD-T glow plugs - info needed
 
tweeek said:
1hdt have plugs, same as 1HZ. I think you are thinking of the glow screen on the HDFT.
Click to expand...

OOohhh. Maybe that's the difference. I did a glow plug test this past weekend and made some videos... it seems to make a difference.

All the videos were taken at about 6-8 degrees F... on 2 different days.

Here's a warm start of the 1HD-T diesel. Just showing how smooth this thing is:


Now... Here's a cold start (6 degrees out) using glow plugs:
 
And, here's a cold start without using glow plugs:


Overall, I'm still pretty impressed by how well this thing starts up when it's cold out!
 
Lumpskie said:
@IanB Was this the video post that you said I should see?



I watched it and I think I'm getting a little better understanding. So, with a higher boost level... do I want to set more preload in the compensator spring by turning it counter clockwise? That's the only thing that I didn't quite get from the videos. (I might try grinding my aneriod pin tonight, for easy reinsertion.)
Click to expand...

Those are the videos, really helps to illustrate what you need to do in there. Yes, with higher boost you want to stiffen the spring to increase resistance so you don't have the pin travel too far and get into fuel cut at higher boost levels. I have not yet personally messed with my pump (it has been tuned by ATEB this past summer), but once the weather warms up around here I'll be elbows deep in this thing!

Your cold start vids seem a bit choppy/rough to me, 6F is about -14C, I have no means of starting without glowplugs other than just not waiting for them when you turn the key, but it's -30C or worse before I've seen my truck stall after firing. Synthetic oil helps a great deal with cold starts I've found, engine spins and stays spinning much easier. You may also want to pump up the fuel primer before a cold start and see if it makes a difference, you may have air getting into the lines when it sits and the temp drops that needs some attention.
 
IanB said:
Those are the videos, really helps to illustrate what you need to do in there. Yes, with higher boost you want to stiffen the spring to increase resistance so you don't have the pin travel too far and get into fuel cut at higher boost levels. I have not yet personally messed with my pump (it has been tuned by ATEB this past summer), but once the weather warms up around here I'll be elbows deep in this thing!

Your cold start vids seem a bit choppy/rough to me, 6F is about -14C, I have no means of starting without glowplugs other than just not waiting for them when you turn the key, but it's -30C or worse before I've seen my truck stall after firing. Synthetic oil helps a great deal with cold starts I've found, engine spins and stays spinning much easier. You may also want to pump up the fuel primer before a cold start and see if it makes a difference, you may have air getting into the lines when it sits and the temp drops that needs some attention.
Click to expand...

Thanks for filling me in on stiffening the screw. Honesly, I'm a little scared of removing the pin, but I'll get to it later this week, when it warms up a bit.

Also, it looks like I was a little easy to please with my cold starts. I thought getting it to start at all without glow was good but, from your description, it seems like it could be better. What did you think of the video where I used the glow plugs? Still pretty choppy?

Thanks for all of your feedback... I'm a total diesel noob. Without your help, I don't know where I'd be!
 
I've never had mine not start for me, when it gets REALLY cold (-30C or worse) here, if chugs along pretty good for the 1st 10 seconds after firing before it smooths out. Synthetic oil lets the starter spin the engine much easier, and gets to all the parts much faster I'm sure.
 
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