Are you disputing that 1HD-T's have glow plugs?!? The 1HD-T and 1HD-FT both use glow plugs, the 1HD-FTE uses a glow screen. I'm not sure what else to tell you.
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Are you disputing that 1HD-T's have glow plugs?!? The 1HD-T and 1HD-FT both use glow plugs, the 1HD-FTE uses a glow screen. I'm not sure what else to tell you.
I also understood this to be true, however with mine, there's no waiting for the plugs to heat, she starts the moment the starter cranks, not even 1/4 of a turn, instantaneous, always has, and apparently that's also the norm. we never get into minus temperatures here, maybe it would need a bit longer in proper cold.
You'll see the glowplug light on the dash cluster illuminate briefly when you turn the key to the ACC position, if it's warm it will shut off right away, if it's cold it stays lit up for a few seconds. When it's cold, you turn the key to ACC, wait for the light to go out, then start the engine.
- Thread starter
- #44
I was reading another thread on here and discovered I had a really cool feature in the Landcruiser yesterday.... hand throttle! I wanted to make something like this for the tacoma so I'm excited to play with it.
They most definitely do have glow plugs.
It seems to be a perpetual furphy that they don't.
Lumpskie mine started similar to yours. Instant start when warm, a little spluttery in single digit temps or lower (Celsius)
@baldilocks has given you a good summary on caster correction IMO
I have rubber correction bushes in my 2" lifted 105series (chassis and suspension basically identical to an 80)
I drilled holes in the rubber of my correction bushes for more flex. I have modified shock mounts and have 2.5" longer shocks than typical for 2"lift.
The thing that limits flex now is rear sway bar links.
My preference is correction bushes. Drop boxes are retarded for rocky off-road stuff. The stock radius arm brackets are enough of a hang up as is without adding drop boxes.
Bushes are easily changed out/non permanent too.
I have rubber correction bushes in my 2" lifted 105series (chassis and suspension basically identical to an 80)
I drilled holes in the rubber of my correction bushes for more flex. I have modified shock mounts and have 2.5" longer shocks than typical for 2"lift.
The thing that limits flex now is rear sway bar links.
My preference is correction bushes. Drop boxes are retarded for rocky off-road stuff. The stock radius arm brackets are enough of a hang up as is without adding drop boxes.
Bushes are easily changed out/non permanent too.
- Thread starter
- #48
What do you think about the Caster bearings that Slee sells? I've never seen anyone mention them. I wonder if they limit flex because they are an angle bearing and they won't be able to flex/twist like a bushing...
Castor correction bearings are offset trunion bearings that change the castor angle and range of motion of the steering knuckles. They are not part of the suspension system but a part of the steering system.
I have a '94 HDJ81, so I'm really curious to know how much tuning your engine will help you out. I haven't touched mine at all.
- Thread starter
- #51
Ok, this is all new to me. So, which bearings are trunion bearings? Will correction in these bearings serve the same purpose as the bushings, or do they do something different?
So far, I'd say that my initial setup was way off and much worse than factory. At this point, I think I've probably recovered 20-30 hp, mainly between 0 and 50% throttle. Once I dial in the boost compensator, I'm hoping to get my heavier throttle inputs figured out. After that, I'll hopefully have more performance than stock. Once I have that dialed in, I'd like to see about adding more fuel in to match the higher boost levels and drive performance up from there!
Last edited:
You will have to call of email Slee off road for particular info on the castor correction bearings as I have no experience with them.
The steering knuckles pivot on the trunion bearings. The chapter on front axle in the FSM Wil show them
The steering knuckles pivot on the trunion bearings. The chapter on front axle in the FSM Wil show them
Offset trunion bearings go in the swivel knuckle ball. AFAIK they are mostly used to correct minor misalignment of axle housings, or adjusting camber, not so much used for caster correction. (That might be because there's easy methods of caster correction)
They take a bit of careful set up to get them aligned correctly. Not so easily done for your shade tree mechanic. Also not so easy to reverse or remove them if you change set ups, as the whole front hub/knuckle assembly needs to be stripped to install them. They also have max 2degrees total offset.
They take a bit of careful set up to get them aligned correctly. Not so easily done for your shade tree mechanic. Also not so easy to reverse or remove them if you change set ups, as the whole front hub/knuckle assembly needs to be stripped to install them. They also have max 2degrees total offset.
- Thread starter
- #54
It's starting to sound like just ordering up a couple sets of bushings is the easiest way to go...
What about those adjustable 0-3 degree bushings that Slee sells? Do you guys have any opinions on those?
In other news, I found a replacement speaker grill for my passenger side door speaker (Focal IC165) so I installed it yesterday. Sometimes little things make a big difference in the fit and finish of a vehicle. Not having a speaker grill on there was driving me crazy!
What about those adjustable 0-3 degree bushings that Slee sells? Do you guys have any opinions on those?
In other news, I found a replacement speaker grill for my passenger side door speaker (Focal IC165) so I installed it yesterday. Sometimes little things make a big difference in the fit and finish of a vehicle. Not having a speaker grill on there was driving me crazy!
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #55
The peeling black paint on my grill finally got the best of me. I only had about an hour of light, after I got home from work. So, I did a very quick and dirty plastidip job on it. When I started spraying, I realized that there was an issue with the nozzle... it was spurting the dip out rather than giving a fine mist. At that point, I just committed and went with it. The end product was a textured surface, like a very mild bedliner. Honestly, the texture doesn't look too bad. But, the overall quality of my job is really poor. Still better than it was, though. Now I have a 5ft plastidip job rather than a 20ft paint job.
Before:
After:
Before:
After:
That looks much better!
I was reading another thread on here and discovered I had a really cool feature in the Landcruiser yesterday.... hand throttle! I wanted to make something like this for the tacoma so I'm excited to play with it.
Yup! Courtesy of Dave Steadman...You're going to want his number.
Sorry that it needs a little TLC like so many things, but I think a spot of superglue to lock the knob to the pull should do it! It's starting to sound like just ordering up a couple sets of bushings is the easiest way to go...
What about those adjustable 0-3 degree bushings that Slee sells? Do you guys have any opinions on those?
In other news, I found a replacement speaker grill for my passenger side door speaker (Focal IC165) so I installed it yesterday. Sometimes little things make a big difference in the fit and finish of a vehicle. Not having a speaker grill on there was driving me crazy!
The peeling black paint on my grill finally got the best of me. I only had about an hour of light, after I got home from work. So, I did a very quick and dirty plastidip job on it. When I started spraying, I realized that there was an issue with the nozzle... it was spurting the dip out rather than giving a fine mist. At that point, I just committed and went with it. The end product was a textured surface, like a very mild bedliner. Honestly, the texture doesn't look too bad. But, the overall quality of my job is really poor. Still better than it was, though. Now I have a 5ft plastidip job rather than a 20ft paint job.
Before:
After:
Thank you for doing both of these things, such an embarrassment but I didn't have time to remedy before I flew back overseas! Next up you should replace the single din cd player and swap in a double din so you can hook up the reverse camera, it's worth it.
Glad to see this rig doing well and in good hands. It's solid where it counts and has a lot of potential to be one of the finer examples with a little TLC. Good luck and I'll follow along as you build it. Let me know if you have any questions, happy to answer if I can.
Leit
Yup! Courtesy of Dave Steadman...You're going to want his number.
Thank you for doing both of these things, such an embarrassment but I didn't have time to remedy before I flew back overseas! Next up you should replace the single din cd player and swap in a double din so you can hook up the reverse camera, it's worth it.
Glad to see this rig doing well and in good hands. It's solid where it counts and has a lot of potential to be one of the finer examples with a little TLC. Good luck and I'll follow along as you build it. Let me know if you have any questions, happy to answer if I can.
Leit
Ahhhh, this was your old truck!
- Thread starter
- #59
Thanks @Leitrum3 ,
Who is Dave Steadman? I'd love to find as many resources as I can!
I've got to say... I've been pretty happy to just turn the key and not worry about this thing every morning. I have almost 1000 miles on it already and haven't had a single mechanical issue. Once I get it tuned properly, I think it will move pretty well too. I'm hoping to pull the aneroid, grind it and play with the boost compensator tomorrow night. Have you touched it at all?
Hey, did you know it had a 2" lift on it? From my research it look like 850 springs in front and... 860 in the rear?
Who is Dave Steadman? I'd love to find as many resources as I can!
I've got to say... I've been pretty happy to just turn the key and not worry about this thing every morning. I have almost 1000 miles on it already and haven't had a single mechanical issue. Once I get it tuned properly, I think it will move pretty well too. I'm hoping to pull the aneroid, grind it and play with the boost compensator tomorrow night. Have you touched it at all?
Hey, did you know it had a 2" lift on it? From my research it look like 850 springs in front and... 860 in the rear?
Japan4x4 here on mud. Dave is located over there and can find some items where others may fall short. The other resource you need is full access to ToyoDIY so you can view the full parts lists and diagrams for the non-US parts. Drop me a PM if you need more info on either.