I believe you lose the capability to disengage ABS (or something like that?), it does not give the full functionality of the pin 7 mod.cptmud said:
LOW WITHOUT CENTER DIFF LOCKED
- Thread starter Beast II
- Start date
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You lose the low range tranny shifting points... which is covered in this thread. Doesn't anyone read anymore?
-Spike
-Spike
Yeah, but I'm not about to read through this 3.5 year old thread to pass on info that I don't care too much about, I already have my switch/pin 7 mod.-Spike- said:
CDL switch + 7 pin mod
If you wheel, are reading this thread, and have not done this, do it. It's crazy the amount of control you'll have. It's down right fun.
For added excitement, add the hand throttle. Fun stuff.
If you wheel, are reading this thread, and have not done this, do it. It's crazy the amount of control you'll have. It's down right fun.
For added excitement, add the hand throttle. Fun stuff.
I started reading this thinking why are they talking like its never been done.....Then I get 1/2 way through the first page and notice the date.....;p
I did mine, I like it, I just need to remember to engage it at times....
I did mine, I like it, I just need to remember to engage it at times....
NorCal Cruiser
I don't post much
I'm so glad I found this thread! I just bought a '93 FZJ80 last week and I was disappointed to find that I couldn't engage the factory lockers in high range. I'm very happy to see that by installing the CDL switch I'll be able lock up in high range. Good Times!
NLXTACY
Wits' End
Ok I read through the whole thing and I hope I don't sound like a complete jag-off but what I do not see discussed in this entire thread is how this affects the NON-locked 80's. Will I get all the control discussed or are my abilities to control ABS and locking in HI or LO curtailed by not having lockers? I like what I am hearing about the control. But does adding a CDL switch and 7 pin mod really net me bupkis without the lockers?
FJBen
SILVER Star
yes it helps, you can "technically" say you have 1 locker
The center, with the switch and wiring, you can still control your low range. If you are on a trail where you need low range for power/control and it's curvy/turns etc...by NOT having the CDL locked, it will turn easier since it's not trying to do 50/50 split.
also, if you are on pavement...maybe backing a trailer and want the low range, you can use low WITHOUT having the center locked. Having the center locked on pavement will cause more stress/bind in the drivetrain.
I like using the low range without CDL locked on trails.
NLXTACY
Wits' End
Awesome, great to know. Thanx Ben
Bringing it back from the dead.
You would need to "fool" the diff lock ECU into thinking the center was locked even if it wasn't. then you could lock just the diffs. to take it a step further you could also probably fool it to think the rear was locked if you just wanted to lock the front.
I will look at the EWD's and see if it looks doable.......
Just wondering if you ever found any info on modifying the switch for just front locking?
You would need to "fool" the diff lock ECU into thinking the center was locked even if it wasn't. then you could lock just the diffs. to take it a step further you could also probably fool it to think the rear was locked if you just wanted to lock the front.
I will look at the EWD's and see if it looks doable.......
Just wondering if you ever found any info on modifying the switch for just front locking?
why would this be bad?
just curious if i ever had to do just a front dig.
Thanks Mitchell
just curious if i ever had to do just a front dig.
Thanks Mitchell
did this mod to my 80 tonight and it works great! I knew about the pulling of the plug from the T-case but the 7pin mod has got to be better. thanks for the info!
This mod would help for those that want the cheap way out and install an Aussie locker front and rear. It would allow you to disconnect the front from the rear and allow you to turn easily. Of course you have to have hubs so you can drive down the road and not have to worry about the front diff being locked under normal operating conditions. Sounds like a plan to me.
Uh, heh heh. 
-Spike
-Spike
So, to perpetuate this thread just a liiiiitle more... the anal retentive in me wants to know if you can just ›snip‹ the 7 wire rather than pulling it out of the terminal?
Let's say that as you were wiggling it out of the terminal, the insulation pulled off the wire exposing bare copper anyway, and the wire was not budging and so you just snipped it, insulated both ends and buttoned it all back up. And then you test drove it and all seemed fine, with 1st and 2nd shifts in 4L occurring around 2k...
Let's just say that. What if?
Let's say that as you were wiggling it out of the terminal, the insulation pulled off the wire exposing bare copper anyway, and the wire was not budging and so you just snipped it, insulated both ends and buttoned it all back up. And then you test drove it and all seemed fine, with 1st and 2nd shifts in 4L occurring around 2k...
Let's just say that. What if?
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Cutting the wire also works. It's a bit more difficult to reverse.
ReVERSE??!!! Mwah ha hah.
Whew. Though there's a part of me that's bugged by my "short cut" and wishes his mod were as clean and pro as what I know the big dogs on here can do. But thanks to the big dogs and their writeups, I was able to get this far. Beers to you.
Whew. Though there's a part of me that's bugged by my "short cut" and wishes his mod were as clean and pro as what I know the big dogs on here can do. But thanks to the big dogs and their writeups, I was able to get this far. Beers to you.
