Center Differential Lock (1 Viewer)

[obe12]

I searched IH8MUD, YouTube, and standard search engine on if you remove a CDL actuator in unlock mode, work on the transfer case, like removal of Front Output Housing reseal. If you remove the front housing to reseal and transfer case is not “hint in lock position” the shift collar you can’t get re aligned unless you move the actuator my vehicle electrics, removal of actuator or could remove the magnet cover and physicaly twist the shaft to lock the collar. If you remove the actuator when not in locked position, and then lock it manual now your transfer case is out of sync with the actuator.

Or actuator fails mid point … and you buy another one. How to sync it back.

1st the motor uses a rotating switch to open close connections to signal the control relay to shut power off. Plus it uses a 4L switch to activate the actuator when shift low range, or if you are equipped a push button on the dash.

For the shifter to command relay to operate the CDL motor, there is a switch on the back, to override the switch of installed to trigger the relay. Or a bypass mod can be done to not command lock if in low range. By removal of a pin at the control relay or simply unplug the rear transfer case switch to bypass this function.

Plus once motor is commanded to move to lock, it energizes built in relays to operate the motor unit limit switch is signaled to relay to s*** power off.

Also another switch on the forward part of the output housing detects locked position and triggers the Lock light on the dash.

It possibly to command the lock and be locked without light illuminating. This is a separate circuit…

Two fuses power the system… check those
If no mod then shirt to low and drive the truck to allow color to align to lock. If you jack any one wheel with center doc lock engages one wheel will not turn with trans in neutral because the front shaft is connected to rear shaft.

If the wheel can be turned but has resistance this would be normal in a Vicus coupler design transfer case, FJZ80 with ABS brakes no CDL switch installed by the factory … the tire can be turned but with a Vicus Coupler the wheel will have resistance to turn, but it will turn if unlocked

If locked, this one tire if transmission is in neutral one wheel can’t be turned very much without spinning rest drive shaft too.

Now how to sync the CDL and actuator together.

Plug old, used or new actuator in the truck, if button in dash model press lock button. Motor should run between button in and button out. If No button, then short L4 rear connector unplugged or plugged in shaft transfer case to Low range

This should activate the motor plugged in not installed on the Transfer case.

Manual says, “hint in lock” shaftto low, or short connector pins, or push the button allow motor to run and stop, unplug the motor and it ready to be installed.

Now have to manually twist the gear to lock the front to rear. Of out can remove the switch and watch the ramp move into position, shaft back towards the main center part.

Then install the actuator back. Now you are in sych.

Good luck

 

[jonheld]

Why is this so complicated?
The actuator can be run with a 9V battery to lock or unlock.
The CDL collar in the transfer case can be locked/unlocked by hand by spinning the drive gear.
It makes no difference if you disassemble/reassemble with the CDL locked or unlocked. They just have to be in sync.

If you put it together and it's out of sync, it's a 5 minute fix.

 

[obe12]

Why is this so complicated?
The actuator can be run with a 9V battery to lock or unlock.
The CDL collar in the transfer case can be locked/unlocked by hand by spinning the drive gear.
It makes no difference if you disassemble/reassemble with the CDL locked or unlocked. They just have to be in sync.

You can run motor with 9 volt battery to the limit of the mechanical spring , but that isn’t to the electrical limit that triggers relay to stop power being applied before mechanical limit.

That the sync part , motor stopped at it electric limit to match the transfer case in position when the limit is reached. If not you could find one end of the limit not reach electrically commanding 12v to motor when it at a mechanical stop and burn motor up

The service manual is vague at best about this. Just a hint apply it in lock before taking it apart. Doesn’t cover what I’d motor fails in mid point and replacing it. There is a spring that is wound to the gear that way the motor will stop if the electrical stop point keeping spring pressure applied to shaft until the load is released to unlock or splines lined up to engage.

These actuator's are getting stupid expensive too to mess one up.

 

[jonheld]

You can run motor with 9 volt battery to the limit of the mechanical spring , but that isn’t to the electrical limit that triggers relay to stop power being applied before mechanical limit.

That the sync part , motor stopped at it electric limit to match the transfer case in position when the limit is reached. If not you could find one end of the limit not reach electrically commanding 12v to motor when it at a mechanical stop and burn motor up

Nope. Done it numerous times. It always works.
It's really not a complicated system.
And burning up the motor? Really?

 

[jonheld]

You can run motor with 9 volt battery to the limit of the mechanical spring , but that isn’t to the electrical limit that triggers relay to stop power being applied before mechanical limit.

That the sync part , motor stopped at it electric limit to match the transfer case in position when the limit is reached. If not you could find one end of the limit not reach electrically commanding 12v to motor when it at a mechanical stop and burn motor up

The service manual is vague at best about this. Just a hint apply it in lock before taking it apart. Doesn’t cover what I’d motor fails in mid point and replacing it. There is a spring that is wound to the gear that way the motor will stop if the electrical stop point keeping spring pressure applied to shaft until the load is released to unlock or splines lined up to engage.

These actuator's are getting stupid expensive too to mess one up.

I understand now. What you described is not how it operates.
There are contacts inside the motor gear housing that set the motor limits for lock/unlock. You can leave the battery connected all day long and nothing will happen.

 

[obe12]

Nope. Done it numerous times. It always works.
It's really not a complicated system.
And burning up the motor? Really?

Never said it was complicated, just the relay is commanded off by the limit switch … is how is designed to work. Yeah I torqued many bolt without a torque wrench, doesn’t mean is right or it’s close enough it will work. 9 volt idea is a work around for a modified procedure that works for you. Manual is vage at best.
How it’s designed is electric stop is reached before mechanical one.

 

[obe12]

Never said it was complicated, just the relay is commanded off by the limit switch … is how is designed to work. Yeah I torqued many bolt without a torque wrench, doesn’t mean is right or it’s close enough it will work. 9 volt idea is a work around for a modified procedure that works for you. Manual is vage at best.
How it’s designed is electric stop is reached before mechanical one.

One person found his motor was hot to the touch because of a limit issue. That can’t be good for the motor or relays to on all the time when commanded lock or unlock.

 

[jonheld]

One person found his motor was hot to the touch because of a limit issue. That can’t be good for the motor or relays to on all the time when commanded lock or unlock.

When I have nothing else to do, I'll pull the actuator assembly off my spare transfer case and play around with it and take some pics.
If you open up the housing, there are finger contacts that set the electrical rotational limits for lock and unlock.

 

[obe12]

When I have nothing else to do, I'll pull the actuator assembly off my spare transfer case and play around with it and take some pics.
If you open up the housing, there are finger contacts that set the rotational limits for lock and unlock.

Yep, they command the relays to open to stop power to the motor, and swap ground to swap grounds to reverse the motor. On next power cycle of switch. 3 relays and Diods in the relay box. Uses L4 to activate lock or is equipped push button on dash. My 80 was t equipped with a push button and I added one. My 80 has a vicus coupler style transfer case too. My 80 would lock but no dash light would show on dash, the forward switch was the cause for that.

I pulled this transfer case out and forgot to engage lock with the intent to reseal the rest and front housings and install new bearings. In that process I found oops forget to engage lock and you can’t get the front housing on very easy with the lock
Collar not in the engaged position.

But I had to split the cases to install the low range gears so this created removal of CDL actuator … reading the manual it “hint engage lock “ but the cdl motor was unlocked when I removed it. So that is how I got it back to lock and stop electrically and then bolt it on the transfer case.