The center diff will probably unlock first. I wonder how well the rear will unlock without power going to it. Maybe better.
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Gumby,
the power to lock and unlock the diffs is not sourced from the center. The center is only the trigger. The diff lock ECU tells the diffs to unlock when it looses the center lock signal. the speed with which the diffs unlock is governed by how "loaded" they are with windup. They will unlock as soon as the load equalizes accross the diff.
.
Matt,
There is 1 black wire with blue tracer in pin 7.
There is 1 blue wire with black tracer in pin 3.
That one is the power wire, I think maybe you got that one.
Did you leave the low 4 position switch plugged in at the t-case?(it should be).
As you look at the open end of the connector, the cavities are numbered thusly:
(top)
1,2--3,4
5,6,7,X,9,10
X represents an open cavity.
report back...............Dan
firetruck41 said:Allows you to engage/disengage in hi or low, at your command.
I'm losing it! Yes, my comment is with pin 7 mod as well, I guess I just consider it part of the same mod-Spike- said:Actually, the switch alone only gives you 'command' over the CDL in high range. In low range the CDL will be locked regardless of switch position, as was stated earlier in this thread. you lazy bastards.
The 7-pin mod along with the CDL switch gives you complete control in high and low ranges.
-Spike
CodyRx7 said:Geez, ya use an old searched thread and its OLD....
But if you start a new thread....you should have searched....
(cries)
CodyRx7 said:So currently, stock, if I want to lock the CDL, I have to switch the lever into LOW range...
If I install this switch and do the described 7 pin mod, I can be in regular high gear, and press the new button, which will lock my center diff in high?
I'm curious because I find some trails where I get much better traction with the center locked, but I can only drive what seems like 3 mph...