All I was suppose to do was paint the cage....
Lord what have I done now....
- Thread starter Vitesse_6
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #2
Not to mention the nice item in the last pic to the left. 
That will be in another section.
For you who havent been keeping track
After 2 years ....... - IH8MUD.com Forum
Hippo liner DIY bedliner - IH8MUD.com Forum
https://forum.ih8mud.com/paint-body/191431-suggestions-undercoating.html
That will be in another section.For you who havent been keeping track
After 2 years ....... - IH8MUD.com Forum
Hippo liner DIY bedliner - IH8MUD.com Forum
https://forum.ih8mud.com/paint-body/191431-suggestions-undercoating.html
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- Thread starter
- #3
Draggin this sucker up again....
I will be off to the sandblaster to get the frame/axles/springs done, I am also taking the front fenders, skid plate, side steps and bib to see what they can do, I thought about the hood but Im not quite ready to load it.
Quoted $80.00 for the rolling chassis.......
I will see what they want for the other items.
Then I will be painting all the goodies with POR15 or something....
I will be off to the sandblaster to get the frame/axles/springs done, I am also taking the front fenders, skid plate, side steps and bib to see what they can do, I thought about the hood but Im not quite ready to load it.
Quoted $80.00 for the rolling chassis.......
I will see what they want for the other items.Then I will be painting all the goodies with POR15 or something....
That's a nice cage.
Did you make it yourself??
-my64fj40
Did you make it yourself??
-my64fj40
- Thread starter
- #5
my64fj40 said:
No I have some friends that build buggies that made it for me. Outerlimits Motorsports, Formerly Factory Tubular.
sweet... btw what the hell is that thing pulling that sweet 40?
keep up the good work
keep up the good work
- Thread starter
- #7
bandy rooster said:sweet... btw what the hell is that thing pulling that sweet 40?
keep up the good work
What you dont go to the mall very offten?
How did the flywheel work out for you? I hope well.
I will keep this thread going as things get done.
Thanks
- Thread starter
- #8
Well, Its back from the blaster, Only cost $179.00 for all you see....
I am going to POR the frame/springs/axles then start potting it all back together, I will get to the tub bidness soon.
Enjoy
I am going to POR the frame/springs/axles then start potting it all back together, I will get to the tub bidness soon.
Enjoy
looking like its gonna be sweet
sand
great stuff
Are you rebuilding the axles?
My local sandblaster guarenteed sand inside the 3rds if blasted...
He wouldn't do it
great stuff
Are you rebuilding the axles?
My local sandblaster guarenteed sand inside the 3rds if blasted...
He wouldn't do it
mel lowe said:
I would check them, that stuff gets everywhere!!!
thats alot of work for 179 if i woulda known that i would have done that as well
fly wheels on, i just gotta find a pilot bearing and the clutch will be in this week
-thanks by the way.
fly wheels on, i just gotta find a pilot bearing and the clutch will be in this week
-thanks by the way.
red66toy
Supporting Vendor
Why didnt you take the side aprons off the fenders before you blasted them?
- Thread starter
- #14
Lets see....
Mel Low, oldiron
I will be going through the axles, Just cleaning and new seals.
Bandy
Good to hear all is well, Good luck on getting it up and running!
redd66toy
I dont know, I was in a but of a hurry I suppose, They got all of the visible paint off.
Thanks for the thoughts all
Mel Low, oldiron
I will be going through the axles, Just cleaning and new seals.
Bandy
Good to hear all is well, Good luck on getting it up and running!
redd66toy
I dont know, I was in a but of a hurry I suppose, They got all of the visible paint off.
Thanks for the thoughts all
That's so cool that yall can leave bare metal out in Utah and it dosn't rust instantly...
In Corpus bare metal will rust overnight, I think I want to move to Arizona
By the way it looks really good so far
Go have a
In Corpus bare metal will rust overnight, I think I want to move to Arizona
By the way it looks really good so far
Go have a
- Thread starter
- #16
my64fj40 said:That's so cool that yall can leave bare metal out in Utah and it dosn't rust instantly...
In Corpus bare metal will rust overnight, I think I want to move to Arizona
By the way it looks really good so far
Go have a
Its a dry heat they say.....
Thanks
To you, I have had some already 
- Thread starter
- #17
Daily update and check in ...or so
Yesterday I did a bit of grinding of some old area's I couldnt get to when the body was on, I also welded up a few extra area's for the cage tie in's.
Today I got the engine/trans/T-case all put together so I can see where o put it and cut off the old mounts and put in the correct spot.
Pic's of the day...
...or soYesterday I did a bit of grinding of some old area's I couldnt get to when the body was on, I also welded up a few extra area's for the cage tie in's.
Today I got the engine/trans/T-case all put together so I can see where o put it and cut off the old mounts and put in the correct spot.
Pic's of the day...
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- Thread starter
- #18
Im bummed...We put the above setup in the frame to see where the mounts would go and I noticed I cant use the bellhousing.....The slave is on the passenger side and is totaly in the way of the front driveline 
I will be looking for a AA type BH #712577 and possibly a new slave.
On the bright side we at least figured out where to place the mounts and that I may need a short SBC water pump along with being able to swap the DL's front to back.
Have fun....I need a few beer's!
I will be looking for a AA type BH #712577 and possibly a new slave.
On the bright side we at least figured out where to place the mounts and that I may need a short SBC water pump along with being able to swap the DL's front to back.
Have fun....I need a few beer's!
Vitesse_6 said:Daily update and check in
Yesterday I did a bit of grinding of some old area's I couldnt get to when the body was on, I also welded up a few extra area's for the cage tie in's.
Today I got the engine/trans/T-case all put together so I can see where o put it and cut off the old mounts and put in the correct spot.
Pic's of the day...
What transmission and transfer case are you running? It appears that you have a long engine to transmission that might hit the rear stock tubular frame bar. Are you going to have to relocate the bar.
I'm courious becasue, I'll be running a 350 with an NV4500 along with the stock 10 spline transfer case, and I'm a little worried that I'll have to relocate the bar.
Also, what is the lenght of your rear drive shaft and is it practical to have a driveshaft smaller than 15"?
Sorry for all the questions, but as we've been progressing on my rebuild, I'm becoming a little overwhelmed
that I bit off more than I can chew....
- Thread starter
- #20
Its a Early NV4500 with the 3speed T-case. Its a tight fit, I will be moving the front mounts forward about 2-3" and the rear mounts will be in the same place they were with the Downey SBC/3 speed kit. The back side of the brake drum would be flush with the cross member if it werent about 1/2" below.
Forgot to mention I will have about a 24" rear DL. Have you flipped your rear springs? if not this will give you about an extra 4" https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=81466&highlight=spring+flip
All this is just first fitment, I need a new BH before I can be 100% on where it will go.
Where are you located?
Good luck!
Forgot to mention I will have about a 24" rear DL. Have you flipped your rear springs? if not this will give you about an extra 4" https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=81466&highlight=spring+flip
All this is just first fitment, I need a new BH before I can be 100% on where it will go.
Where are you located?
Good luck!
