Longtime reader, first time owner -- 1984 FJ60 -- Quick Questions (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter jma256
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- driveshaft fj60 help! smoke
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- Thread starter
- #22
The fun begins =)
Mine has clunked for 16 years and over 40K miles. Should I worry about it yet?
Mine clunks a bit too and not at the level i worry about yet. The OP’s case sounds a bit more severe. The great thing about clunks is they will usually tell you when they need to be addressed because usually one day they stop clunking.
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- #25
Now you have me thinking about the cost/benefit of H55 vs dropping down in tires (and wheels, as rn the 33s are on 17inch wheels)...
rrv333
SILVER Star
^ What he said
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- #28
Fair. Fair.
I'm in a '85 FJ60 with 2F, H42, and 33"s. I came from 31"s and felt my RPMs were pretty high on the freeways. On the 33"s, I'm feeling the rubber overdrive and able to maintain highway speeds at lower RPMs (60-70 mph at around 2.5k-2.8k RPM). With respect to highway inclines, I definitely slow down. I recently went to Truckee and with the inclines on I-80, I was able to stay behind the 18 wheelers and keep up around 55-60 mph in a fully loaded 60 (stock front/rear bumpers) with a RTT. The bigger struggle are some of the steeper hills in SF coming from a start. From what I've gathered here, this has to do more with the gearing of the H42 combined with the 33"s.
neglected to mention, with the u-joint there'll be some grinding/vibration that changes between accel and decel
When my 75 series was doing this , it was loose Ubolts. The engine torque caused the axle to move, making the landcruiser crab walk for second
Before you go out and spend a bunch of money on a clutch and labor to install, why not adjust it and see if that helps? There is a threaded rod underneath at the slave cylinder that is there for the explicit purpose to take up the slack to compensate for clutch disc wear. It may just need a little adjustment. People are often too quick to diagnose a bad clutch without first attempting to get it adjusted to spec.
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Is that adjustment to help the slave properly compress the pressure plate fingers and thus disengage the clutch? Seems to me the only way an adjustment might help is if someone adjusted it way too much and with the foot off the pedal the slave was preloading the pressure plate and preventing it from fully pressuring the clutch disc in place.
Nostradamus
SILVER Star
H55 is the bomb - have one in my 85, and I run 33's. Can cruise comfortably at 70 on the highway w no drama. The 2F still sucks for power on hills.
Yes...and it doesn't necessarily require someone to adjust it "way too much." to cause it to slip. What was a perfectly adjusted clutch at mile 1 will end up causing too much preload on the pressure plate at mile 100,001. This is because as the clutch disc gets thinner with wear, the fingers are required to push back more on the adjuster to compensate. To adjust, back off the adjustment rod enough that there is a tiny amount of play between the adjuster and the fork. As long as there is a little wiggle in the adjustment, you will rule out any pre-load on the pressure plate and the clutch has every opportunity to do its job. If after adjusting the clutch still slips, you'll need a new clutch.
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- #38
here we go.
dude, good score. well, the body anyway. but those brodozer rims gotta go!!!!! could be the trucks throwin' a p!$$y fit cuz of em.
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- #40
Haha. I’m with you. I have the factory 15s and I think they’ll do just fine for a while once I get these off.
